Forum Charity Project - Feisty the Festy in Oklahoma

[Zanzer]

^^ 10-4 John, I'll let you know as soon as I get a quote.

Also, would anyone have an issue with me sending a return sticker with the rebuilt head so Larry can send the old one back to me? I figure I can "bag it and tag it" and put it on the shelf as a rebuildable core for future needs or projects such as this.

You guys let me know if this is copacetic.

[Pu241]

I would almost demand that you do, because without you rebuilding the head you have this entire mission could not have happened.
Do I need to buget more $ for return shipping then?

[Larry Hampton]

Zanzer, is area these head crack in noticeable or is it only via magniflux? If the head isn't cracked, but had some stripped rocker shaft threads, do you want me its install helicoils in those before sending it back? Or would you rather do that yourself?

[Smedley]

Mark, paypal sent.

[Zanzer]

I would almost demand that you do, because without you rebuilding the head you have this entire mission could not have happened.
Do I need to buget more $ for return shipping then?

Possibly, I'll find out when I get the shipping quote. If it's an exorbitant amount to return the core I'll split it with ya

Zanzer, is area these head crack in noticeable or is it only via magniflux? If the head isn't cracked, but had some stripped rocker shaft threads, do you want me its install helicoils in those before sending it back? Or would you rather do that yourself?

Larry, it really depends on the crack. Some are easily seen with the naked eye and I've had a couple that I've had to use penetrant dye testing to verify. Your best bet is to check between the valves because every cracked head I've encountered so far has been in this location. Don't worry about heli-coiling the old head. I typically drill the head and the rail to the next size up and then re-tap the head to repair stripped rocker shaft bolt holes.

Here's a couple of pics to show you where the heads tend to crack. In the first one you can almost see the crack, but the penetrant dye really tells the story in the second pic.







Also, it looks like we're back to plan "A" on the head

I started pulling the head off the 88 tonight but found that someone has busted out part of the tab in the head where the thermostat housing bolts to the head. It's the lower bolt where the head has the ear cast into it instead of a hole drilled into the solid section like the upper. They had a 1/4 x 20 bolt, 2 huge washers, and a nut on the back side holding the T-stat housing on. So that head will have to be welded up and then re-drilled and tapped before it can be used.

[Zanzer]

Mark, paypal sent.

Gotcha Barb

So that's $30 from Barb and $40 from Eaglefreek, which puts us at $125 after the valve guides :thumbup:

I'll hit Advance in the morning with our parts list.


Also, another question for Larry. Do you want me to pick up a Fail-Safe thermostat and send with the care package? I recommend them with a new head because if the car ever runs hot the Fail-Safe locks in the full open position as a safeguard to help reduce the chance of damage from overheating.

[Larry Hampton]

Sure thing!!

[Larry Hampton]

Ooh!! I just remembered. Her driver's exterior door handle doesn't work. It looks fine from the outside, maybe a loose rod? I have no idea what they look like on the inside. My blue car has the passenger side broken off, I'm supposed to be getting one from Festfull for the blue car.

If the door handles work for either side, I wonder if they're like Ford Explorer exterior door handles. Those are ambidextrious too, if you break the inner plastic part, you can swap it for the other side. Only bad thing on the Explorer, it uses a big pop rivet to hold it on, you have to replace them with carriage bolts (i use SS with poly lock nuts).

If that's the case, I can use her handle to fix my car and put the one Festfull is giving me on hers, right?

[Safety Guy]

Larry, the door handles do work on either side. There are linkage points on each end of the inner handle so you just hook up what side fits for the application.

Karl

[Zanzer]

I can't help ya with the door handle issue Larry but I'm sure someone* on here has the answer. I'm more of an engine guy, which probably explains why my car looks like crap but runs like new LOL

*EDIT - See Karl's post


Here's an update on the cylinder head stuff. I just back from the parts run and they had everything in stock except for the exhaust gasket and valve stem seals, but both of those items will be in first thing in the AM. I spent $17 at Autozone for the Fail-Safe thermostat, gasket, and distributor o-Ring. I spent $78 at Advance for the head gasket, valve cover gasket, intake and exhaust manifold gaskets, TB gasket, cam seal, and valve stem seals. Jeff saved us a couple of bucks by price matching the more expensive items like the head gasket, VC gasket, and valve stem seals (list for everything would have been around $85).

So as it stands I've collected $150 and paid out $120 which puts us $30 in the black :thumbright:


My next obstacle is to find a good usable core head to rebuild. I'm gonna go dig deep in the pile and see what I can come up with. Cross your fingers and I'll be back in a few hours with an update.

[Larry Hampton]

Oops, I was wrong, the door handle works, it's the driver's door lock that doesn't work.

[Charlie1717]

Oops, I was wrong, the door handle works, it's the driver's door lock that doesn't work.

Is it the lock mechanism or something else? If it's just the actual lock cylinder just take the passenger one and switch them.

[Larry Hampton]

Not sure, haven't opened the panel up yet.

[Larry Hampton]

The car is in my driveway, I took the tow dolly back to the guy I borrowed it from, I also mow his lawn, I just got back from that, so I haven't gotten into anything on it yet. Hope to pull the valve cover tomorrow evening.

[Zanzer]

So after much digging, sweating, and a bit of cursing... I found this today



I thought I was out since the last 3 cars I've built have needed a head due to cracks, but I figured I'd give it one more good search just in case....and TA DA! When I found it I jokingly called it the last of the summer wine

I have a hydraulic lift head that I'm going to switch out the rocker rails onto this head. I'm going to swap in a better cam too. The one in this head has seen better days. The nice thing about having all these cracked heads laying around is I have a ton of valve-train parts to pick from.




Before getting too deep into it I cleaned the chambers and verified that there were no cracks. White = :thumbup: Red =

As you can see it's white where it's supposed to be so :thumbup:




It isn't too pretty in those pics but it should clean up nicely. I have it completely torn down now and I've went over it once with SuperClean and once with Power Dissolver so now it's starting to look like a head again. This is the worst part of rebuilding a head because it takes forever to get a B3 head clean on the exhaust side. I figure it will need at least 2 more cycles of Power Dissolver and then we can get on to the fun stuff