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b6t at 16 psi!

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  • b6t at 16 psi!

    So got my rocketchip back today. The car holds boost great and pulls very hard. Will need a better clutch tho. 2nd gear it started to slip i let out after 3rd had nothing. Clutch is cooled off and fine now but it cant take that very much more.

    The b6t festiva must be crazy at 16psi. Slipping clutch and with the capris weight it was fun.

    Found an oil leak i have to fix before i really get to enjoy the capri tho.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

  • #2
    The best 160$ mod i think i have ever done to a car.
    1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
    1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
    1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
    19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
    1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
      The best 160$ mod i think i have ever done to a car.
      What boost level did it used to run?

      Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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      • #4
        Stock gauge (no clue if it's even close to the right number) showed it to hold firm at around 7psi.



        Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
        1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
        1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
        1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
        19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
        1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

        Comment


        • #5
          At the boost controllers lowest setting it held firm at a stock gauge level of 12ish psi. But an old oil return line broke. I'll have it fixed and new oil tomorrow night and will check the damage.

          Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
          1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
          1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
          1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
          19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
          1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

          Comment


          • #6
            The oil drain from the turbo tends to get rock hard and brittle with age. Be careful with what you replace that hose with. I used a pre formed heater hose that I cut to fit. I found it by rooting through the coolant hoses at pep boys. I was skeptical about using heater hose for oil, but it held up for 2 years before I found a good factory replacement. I think I wrote down the part number for that hose somewhere, I'll look for it.
            If the hose is kinked at all it will back up and you'll burn oil.
            Last edited by Advancedynamix; 12-19-2015, 10:38 AM.
            Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.

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            • #7
              Isn't it more common to use metal braided/mesh hose for that?


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              • #8
                Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                Isn't it more common to use metal braided/mesh hose for that?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                I HATE braided hose. It is hard to work with (pokes your fingers all the time) will rub through just about anything it does get up against, and if that happens to be a wiring loom, is also conductive and can short out wiring. Also, if you run it too close to exhaust you aren't much better off than just running a bare hose next to exhaust...the steel will pick up the heat and put it right into the hose anyway. I now use two-braid hydraulic hose for just about everything. It's 10x tougher, easier to work with, has a nice rubberized outer jacket, is about 1/3 the price of "AN hose" or stainless braided hose or whatnot. Also, if you make a tight bend with braided hose it will kink/collapse. Hydraulic hose holds its shape a lot better because you're getting 5 layers of material.
                Last edited by ZephTheChef; 12-19-2015, 05:20 PM.

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                • #9
                  Most factory turbo drainlines are hardlines though. They have flex-sections like exhaust piping. I don't like those for the conductivity reason. They inevitably (on most cars) run near the starter. If you don't unhook your battery before you work on stuff it's easy to short out a starter terminal and burn a hole in that line, lol.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ZephTheChef View Post
                    I HATE braided hose. It is hard to work with (pokes your fingers all the time) will rub through just about anything it does get up against, and if that happens to be a wiring loom, is also conductive and can short out wiring. Also, if you run it too close to exhaust you aren't much better off than just running a bare hose next to exhaust...the steel will pick up the heat and put it right into the hose anyway. I now use two-braid hydraulic hose for just about everything. It's 10x tougher, easier to work with, has a nice rubberized outer jacket, is about 1/3 the price of "AN hose" or stainless braided hose or whatnot. Also, if you make a tight bend with braided hose it will kink/collapse. Hydraulic hose holds its shape a lot better because you're getting 5 layers of material.
                    Haha, ok. i only helped once with a turbo build and thats what we used. Car didn't last long after that and i have seen a few other people use it. I think people only dont use hydraulic hose because it costs more right? Thats why we went with the metal stuff-it was cheaper.


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                    • #11
                      I think I will use heater hose and buy enough for 2. Keep the spare in the trunk. It looks like the line just split from age and such
                      1990 (LUCIFER 2.0) fully built BP+T with E153, Fueltech FT500, traction control with hopes of 600hp (i drank to much of the KOOL-AID)
                      1990 OverKILL BP+T, evo ecu system, coilovers, aspire brakes, full advanced suspension, Garrett! The Autocross toy!
                      1989 (BRITSTIVA 1.0) B6T and sold
                      19?? 150$ burnout car SOLD
                      1991 (STRESS RELIEF)SOLD

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Heater hose will sweat oil. I know because I temporarily used it on a hydraulic return. Hot oil might make it worse.

                        Use some genuine Hydraulic return hose that's rated 150psi and barbs/clamps, or go fancy with copper tubing and compression fittings, it'll double as a oil cooler. Do a wrap or 2 like master cylinder lines for stress.

                        Double hose clamps on barbs, never look back.



                        Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!

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                        • #13
                          b6t at 16 psi!

                          Originally posted by jason_ View Post
                          Heater hose will sweat oil. I know because I temporarily used it on a hydraulic return. Hot oil might make it worse.

                          Use some genuine Hydraulic return hose that's rated 150psi and barbs/clamps, or go fancy with copper tubing and compression fittings, it'll double as a oil cooler. Do a wrap or 2 like master cylinder lines for stress.

                          Double hose clamps on barbs, never look back.



                          Sent from my s-off'ed m7 with cm11!
                          Silicon heater hoses do, i dont believe the other type of rubber does but i cant confirm that. Fuel line could work too if you wanna do it cheap. Not that 4ft of hydraulic hose really costs that much...


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                          Last edited by ryanprins13; 12-20-2015, 01:21 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
                            Haha, ok. i only helped once with a turbo build and thats what we used. Car didn't last long after that and i have seen a few other people use it. I think people only dont use hydraulic hose because it costs more right? Thats why we went with the metal stuff-it was cheaper.


                            Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                            Not at all. Hydraulic hose is a couple dollars a foot online. Approximately the same as buying heater hose at the parts store. It's probably more walk-in price by the foot at local stores, but if I'm doing something like that I usually have time to order online. And when you're talking about a 12-18 inch long oil drain that's not a lot of money. That stainless braided stuff is 3x the price per foot. Probably not as bad now that there are likely plenty of chinese alternatives on ebay...but it sure used to be very expensive.

                            Yeah, heater hose for oil lines is not a good idea.

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                            • #15
                              I'm still curious about what the rocketchip does. Does it work worth aftermarket turbos. Is the tune different, or just for higher boost numbers.

                              Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

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