B6 Stutter

[skeeters_keeper]

man.... my sympathies. It will be interesting to see if that guy can find anything else!

Quick question, not sure if you ever mentioned what your fuel pressure is reading, i'm sure you tested this no? my B6 w/ the fuel pressure @ 30 psi (instead of around 40) sort of "flat lines" sometimes, like its starving from fuel. not often though only at certain RPM/throttle combinations. I can still spin the tires in 2nd

[kzbill]

That will be one of my next steps I am working a lot for the next few days, I am going to try one thing at a time then test. I have another rebuilt VAF which I have not tried yet because I wanted to test the last fix it may take a while but that is just the way it is when you have a car 17 yeas old no one knows how to fix them any more and no one but us has an interest.
Sooo..... I just keep trying things, and that is ok I am learning a lot. I enjoy the challenge.

[kzbill]

By the way what are your symptoms on the fuel pressure Issue? My last tank of gas was 33 mpg. that is way bad.

[kzbill]

now it is really bad, like the video I saw that had the idle oscillating between 1200 and 2000 hip hip hooray! that means I can finally solve it cause it won't be intermittant any more maybe.

[skeeters_keeper]

yea my gas mileage went down (21-27mpg when the pressure was too high, not sure about the too low pressure i was still getting about 40 with the B3, but haven't gone through a tank with the B6 on low fuel pressure yet).

with the too high pressure the idle did the "stutter" thing (poped now and then), and it set off the code 17. With the low pressure its idling alright, but sometimes when i'm accelerating slowly (1/4 pedal or less? not sure) it sorta just flattens out like its not getting enough fuel. if i punch it all the way to the floor it pics up again. No check engine light at the low fuel pressure.

thats about all i can say for the fuel pressure symptoms... keep us updated!

[kzbill]

Still working too much to get back at it, soon though

[skeeters_keeper]

the FPR from anomoly40 should be here today or tomorow i'll letchaknow what happens then.

[kzbill]

Thanks

[skeeters_keeper]

Well the FPR arrived on Friday and i got it in yesterday, sunday.

30psi, exactly like my other one.... what the heck? i'm so confused now. first its at 70psi, and then two that put it exactly at 30?

well thanks a bunch to anomoly for getting it to me so quickly, the hunt goes on!!!



any more luck on yours kzbill?

[kzbill]

Been working and can't get back to it now, Ihope to try the CTS next.

[kzbill]

New VAF, New Coolant temperature sensor. same issue

[funky technician]

have you swapped out the computer yet? Sounds like you changed out everything else so far :?

[kzbill]

just ordered a new fuel pump relay, the old one had pitting on the contacts, could cause bad connection. My FPR reads 30 psi Idle, 38 psi. under acceleration.
I swapped out the computer early on, made no difference really.

[kzbill]

Specs are 38 psi.
I assume the idle mode, higher vaccum, drops the pressure.
Lower vaccum, acceleration, raises the pressure.

[kzbill]

Well, I may have phinaly phixed the ph**king phestiva
for all you injected 90-93 phartiva owners with the optical distributor and this problem I will explain.
I was searching the Distributor number T2T52371 all over the web, I found what other cars it fit.
Mazda 323
Mazda Protoge
Kia sephia
Mercury Tracer

Then I went to some help phorums about the Mazda and read. Many places were I at! Somewhere and for the life of me I can't remember where I saw a similar problem described. everyone describes it differently, although lack of power, bad idle and the givaway.......ta da......turn the key off, turn the key back on and it starts and runs ok for a while again.
Seems as though as with mine it gets worse daily. most people replace a Vane airflow meter, and numerous other things as did I.
Someone on the board I was at answered the question with what seemed to make much sense.
He said: On the optical sensor distributor the front seal, between the engine and the front bearing., will leak after a time. When oil gets on the optical diodes or lights or LED's or whatever they are. it goes blind from time to time.
If there is any oil in the Distributor you have a problem. The cure was a new Distributor!
being both cheap and inquisative I decided to take both my distributors apart and make a good one from the two.
Once I get a new bearing and seal I will fix the one that remains.
I disassembled the entire thing all the way to the sensor level. it was soaked with oil. I removed the sensor and cleaned and cleaned it with alcohol and compressed air, about five times.
I took the better of the two distributors, the one without any oil seapage, and put the known good sensor in that one.
I then reassembled it and put it in the car and it ran and so far after twenty miles or so it hasn't quit.
I am going to reserve judgement but I couldn't make two mi. yesterday.
I know I have false alarmed before but now I think it makes sense, dirty optics was one thing I did ask the master technician and he said he had never seen that to be problem. My guess is that positive crankase pressure could push a little oil between the seal and the shaft. A known Problem on other cars that use this distributor.
Gosh I hope I am right but all seems good.