I think you8 right. This came off an Aspire and had a v-grove pullet on it, I pulled it myself.
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While replacing the alternator with an Aspire one, it wont crank when turning key...
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1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Originally posted by Larry Hampton View PostI pulled the wire from the coil to the disty.
I got to thinking last night. Jumping the solenoid on the starter shouldn't work as doesn't the relay on the washer bottle bracket click to send power to the starter?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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Originally posted by koRnhead View Post94 Aspires had the V groove pullies....they didnt switch to the ribbed belt till 95/96 i believe....
And you did disconnect the battery when you swapped the alternator correct?Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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Originally posted by koRnhead View PostNo they didn't. I can assure you. At the very least 94s did not come ribbed. Deal with it nitro. You do not know everything.Last edited by nitrofarm; 11-30-2014, 11:21 AM.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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Don't know the year of the Aspire, just know it was an Aspire and it indeed came with the V-groove pulley. And I don't know if it left the factory that way or not.
Tried to jump the starter, the starter spun but the solenoid didn't kick it forward to the flywheel. I replaced the stock negative clamp with a copper crimp terminal and put a new negative lead clamp-on terminal onto the battery with a wingnut to cable connection.
I pulled the alternator to check pulley size and it's the same as the alternator that came off the car. Planning on taking it to AZ or O'Reilly's and have it tested. One thought is to pull the known good alternator off the black car and install it, but I'm 99.99999% sure that won't solve my problem. I also have a spare starter that I could put on the car. But the car ran fine pulling it into the driveway to swap the alternator.
I've got a multimeter, but I'm not even sure where to start testing. I also have a wiring diagram.Last edited by Larry Hampton; 12-01-2014, 01:32 PM.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Jumping the two large studs only connects the motor windings. Connect a wire to the solenoid terminal and put it on the battery positive. If the solenoid piston doesn't move, the windings have a problem or something is stuck. If it moves sufficiently with no cranking but with a solid click, it's because the internal disk and connecting stud are burned up.When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.
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But if it does move, then what?
I'm 99% positive its not the alternator nor the starter.1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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Originally posted by Larry Hampton View PostBut if it does move, then what.
Originally posted by Larry Hampton View PostI've got a multimeter, but I'm not even sure where to start testing. I also have a wiring diagram.
Set your meter to DC 12 volts & pull the Solenoid wire off the starter,connect red wire from meter to it and connect black wire of meter to ground on Battery. Have someone turn key to start.Do you have 12 volts? You cant just assume your starter is good because it worked in the past......They fail,especially when old,wet & cold.Last edited by nitrofarm; 12-01-2014, 06:44 PM.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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Originally posted by koRnhead View PostNo they didn't. I can assure you. At the very least 94s did not come ribbed. Deal with it nitro. You do not know everything.Last edited by drddan; 12-02-2014, 05:58 AM.Dan
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