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While replacing the alternator with an Aspire one, it wont crank when turning key...

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  • #16
    I think you8 right. This came off an Aspire and had a v-grove pullet on it, I pulled it myself.
    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
    2005 Accord - wife's DD
    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
      I pulled the wire from the coil to the disty.

      I got to thinking last night. Jumping the solenoid on the starter shouldn't work as doesn't the relay on the washer bottle bracket click to send power to the starter?
      It really just sounds like a cold tired starter..... And yes just use a piece of wire or flat screw driver and jump that relay while the car is in neutral. See if that starter cranks-
      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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      • #18
        94 Aspires had the V groove pullies....they didnt switch to the ribbed belt till 95/96 i believe....
        And you did disconnect the battery when you swapped the alternator correct?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by koRnhead View Post
          94 Aspires had the V groove pullies....they didnt switch to the ribbed belt till 95/96 i believe....
          And you did disconnect the battery when you swapped the alternator correct?
          All Aspires came ribbed for pleasure
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

          Comment


          • #20
            No they didn't. I can assure you. At the very least 94s did not come ribbed. Deal with it nitro. You do not know everything.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by koRnhead View Post
              No they didn't. I can assure you. At the very least 94s did not come ribbed. Deal with it nitro. You do not know everything.
              LOL ok but we are talking ALTERNATION here on this thread not AC & PS. Just in case that matters?
              Last edited by nitrofarm; 11-30-2014, 11:21 AM.
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

              Comment


              • #22
                Regardless. This doesn't help him figure out why his car won't crank.

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                • #23
                  Don't know the year of the Aspire, just know it was an Aspire and it indeed came with the V-groove pulley. And I don't know if it left the factory that way or not.

                  Tried to jump the starter, the starter spun but the solenoid didn't kick it forward to the flywheel. I replaced the stock negative clamp with a copper crimp terminal and put a new negative lead clamp-on terminal onto the battery with a wingnut to cable connection.

                  I pulled the alternator to check pulley size and it's the same as the alternator that came off the car. Planning on taking it to AZ or O'Reilly's and have it tested. One thought is to pull the known good alternator off the black car and install it, but I'm 99.99999% sure that won't solve my problem. I also have a spare starter that I could put on the car. But the car ran fine pulling it into the driveway to swap the alternator.

                  I've got a multimeter, but I'm not even sure where to start testing. I also have a wiring diagram.
                  Last edited by Larry Hampton; 12-01-2014, 01:32 PM.
                  1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                  1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                  1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                  1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                  2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                  2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                  2005 Accord - wife's DD
                  2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                  2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Jumping the two large studs only connects the motor windings. Connect a wire to the solenoid terminal and put it on the battery positive. If the solenoid piston doesn't move, the windings have a problem or something is stuck. If it moves sufficiently with no cranking but with a solid click, it's because the internal disk and connecting stud are burned up.
                    When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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                    • #25
                      But if it does move, then what?

                      I'm 99% positive its not the alternator nor the starter.
                      1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                      1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                      1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                      1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                      2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                      2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                      2005 Accord - wife's DD
                      2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                      2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
                        But if it does move, then what.
                        Your getting ahead of yourself....

                        Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
                        I've got a multimeter, but I'm not even sure where to start testing. I also have a wiring diagram.
                        Yes! Test to conclusively eliminate a Bad Starter.
                        Set your meter to DC 12 volts & pull the Solenoid wire off the starter,connect red wire from meter to it and connect black wire of meter to ground on Battery. Have someone turn key to start.Do you have 12 volts? You cant just assume your starter is good because it worked in the past......They fail,especially when old,wet & cold.
                        Last edited by nitrofarm; 12-01-2014, 06:44 PM.
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Dude. Just swap the starter. Its right on top. And make sure you disconnect the battery first. Starters will just die like that.

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                          • #28
                            Also, did you disconnect the engine ground strap?
                            When I'm good I'm very, very good and when I'm bad I'm HORRID.

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by koRnhead View Post
                              No they didn't. I can assure you. At the very least 94s did not come ribbed. Deal with it nitro. You do not know everything.
                              Maybe you can explain why if you go to a part store, or RockAuto, you will get a ribbed idler alternator for a 94 Aspire? Ribbed idler pulley too.
                              Last edited by drddan; 12-02-2014, 05:58 AM.
                              Dan




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                              • #30
                                Can't explain it. Can just tell you I've personally pulled 2 alts from 94s with a V belt at local junkyards. Now can we please help this guy get his car running instead of arguing over what belt gets used??

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