While replacing the alternator with an Aspire one, it wont crank when turning key...

[nonamekid]

Have headlights, nothing else. Checked all fuses.

No auto seatbelts, no blower motor. No flashers. No horn. No fuel pump kicking on when key turned, no dome light.

There is a fuse in the dash that affects all of these except the fuel pump. I have a short in that circuit in my car and it keeps blowing the fuse. Car still runs, nothing works in the gauge cluster either.

[Larry Hampton]

I pulled every fuse in the fuse panel in the dash and none were blown.

The other day when opening the passenger door, I heard a relay clicking somewhere under the dash area, or so I thought. It's not a easily repeatable thing, and the clicking is intermittent.

[Movin]

On our cars it is a good idea to lock out the electrical. But, newer cars can have a lot of issues if you pull battery power. The worst case is there are some cars that if the battery loses power the car will have to be towed to the dealer to get the computer flashed. It will not start to get there. Most new ones will have to relearn adaptable memory. Security codes found and reentered. Customer preferences reentered as well, catch heck if you miss that. So, we are learning more and more how to repair with the battery connected.
More and more repairs are being done with a jump box attached to supply power to electronics with memory before pulling a battery. Or only the circuit involved is locked out. You both are right. On our festivas even if we screw up it is easy to fix compared to this new stuff.

[Damkid]

Thread cleaned up

[Larry Hampton]

Okay. Beautiful Valentines Day in OK. Messed with car last night, got different ignition switch wired in, nothing. Pulled a couple relays under dash, nothing. Swapped out clutch pedal switch at firewall and have power.

I put everything back to original and it will crank but not start. Fuel pump isn't working, tried swapping relay, jumped the wire near M/C, swapped the filter box top, checked the inertia switch. Not sure how to check power at pump connection. Just turn key on?

[Larry Hampton]

Okay, swapped the air vane out for a known good one from the white car and even check it on the white car.

So I pulled the computer out of the blue car, it ran until it threw a timing belt. Still no good. And I put a new fuel filter on it a while back.

Oh, first thing I did was pull the fuel pump and bench test it, it worked.

[Larry Hampton]

Right now I'm wondering if it's the pressure regulator, like it's stuck closed?

[Team Lightning]

Might want to check for flow out of the return line off the injector rail.

[Larry Hampton]

The pump doesn't kick on. The pump works, the relay works, the box on the air filter works, the computer works, on other cars.

Doesn't the pressure regulator have a wire going to it?

[Movin]

No..not the regulator. Do you still have the crash switch in the right rear strut area? Under the plastic of course! Power from the front has to go in and out of the crash switch to get to the pump.

[Larry Hampton]

Yup, button's pushed in, maybe I should swap it out as well.

[Larry Hampton]

Storms last night prevented working on it, we've had like 18" of rain this May alone....

[Movin]

You may have to borrow a test light !

[Dragonhealer]

You are almost done! If you have no fuel flow at this point, swap out the distributor. It's the only way the ECU knows the engine is turning, and therefor to inject fuel. Though, at key on, the pump should run briefly , but maybe it won't if the circuit in the dist is out. Let us know.

[nitrofarm]

^ Dragon,Mazda used the VAF micro switch for this safety feature.