Nice tidbit for those with barely any heat

[Safety Guy]

Twist, I think "FML" referred to the old "Festiva Mailing List."

Karl

[Twistiva]

Yes! It's actually the it was designed!!

Well, thanks for clearing that up. Other than the last couple of years I've lived where it was warm enough I rarely needed a heater. This info just kept me from wasting my time chasing down a problem that didn't exist.

And, thx for the clarification on "FML".

[crusher773]

So is the one neanderpaul has there the correct one as well? If so its way cheaper its only 12.99

[ericsmith32]

What you want. Part # 41492 @ O'Reilly's

Picked up one of these bad boys today. Hopefully the quality has went up since 01-02. FYI I gave them the part # and it didn't come up but it came up under a 01 Kia Sportage.

[TRUCKtiva]

Ebay: http://goo.gl/uyr2Y

[jbear56]

Thanks!

I've had this problem since 1992, maybe I can find a ford thermostat!

jbear56

[Gomez]

What you want. Part # 41492 @ O'Reilly's

Put one of these on 2 days ago. Temps went from 1/16" above the line to "on the line" both with my tach type cluster. Get less heat now. Starting to get cold here in Ohio slowly but surely. Going to try some investigating on the heater core this weekend.

IDK, oh well!

[bhazard]

Make sure you burp out your cooling system really good?

My heat sucks. I had crap heat withthe B3 and stock radiator, then awesome heat with b6t and stock auto rad, now crap with bpt and civic aluminum rad.

[walth]

same thermostat for all 3?

flushing and back-flushing the system should help a good bit, especially the heater core. not perfect but helps.

my heat only works well on defrost and some other odd setting. but I have the dual stage t-stat as well and the car only runs just above the line all the time

[Gomez]

Gonna see about heater core temps going in and out of itself today. Still makes sence though about the car never getting up to temp and not being possib;e to get hot heat unless it does so. Will continue with the t-stat, core, rad, and other possible blockages and non-opening valves. Honestly, to me it ain't worth keeping the car as a dd if it doesn't have heat while living through an Ohio winter. Not giving up yet though.

[5.0zone]

It has been my observation that high milage Festiva engines produce less heat. My first engine got to were it would bearly keep your feet warm on realy cold days, and after I replace the engine the heat worked great again. Slowly over the years the second engine started doing the same.

My fix is to take a small square of aluminum sheet and put it in front of the radiator.
Works great!. Just have to keep your eye on the temp gueage on warm days.

Mine is 12"x14" and is doubled over so that it will give it some spring tention between the radiator and the AC radiator. I can slide it to the side for more cooling throught the radiator then back for more heat. I take it out during the spring, summer and fall.

[FB71]

It has been my observation that high milage Festiva engines produce less heat. My first engine got to were it would bearly keep your feet warm on realy cold days, and after I replace the engine the heat worked great again. Slowly over the years the second engine started doing the same.

My fix is to take a small square of aluminum sheet and put it in front of the radiator.
Works great!. Just have to keep your eye on the temp gueage on warm days.

Mine is 12"x14" and is doubled over so that it will give it some spring tention between the radiator and the AC radiator. I can slide it to the side for more cooling throught the radiator then back for more heat. I take it out during the spring, summer and fall.

The PROPER fix is to flush the cooling system with a stripping chemical, to remove all the silica sediment that's lining the coolant passages, and preventing the heat from being transfered to the coolant! Otherwise, you're just aggravating the problem by blocking airflow from the rad. Silica sediment is thermally non-conductive, and prevents the excess heat in the cylinders and head from being transfered to the coolant. This causes localized overheating within the cylinders, and a low temp reading on the gauge and low heat output in the cabin. Flush the cooling system with Cascade powdered dish detergent. First drain all the coolant and flush with clear water. Then fill the system with clear water and one cup of Cascade. Let it idle till it reaches operating temp, then run it a 2k RPM for 2-3 minutes. Shut it down, and let it cool till pressure is releived from the system. Drain while still hot/warm. Allow to cool more, then fill with clear water only, and repeat the heat cycle. Drain and flush with clear water, then refill with 50/50 coolant/water.

[walth]

does the silica (start lining) and come from old coolant? if it were changed maybe once every year or two it probably wouldn't be so bad.

I like the cascade idea. You think it's better than the flush chemicals that they sell at mcparts?

[FB71]

does the silica (start lining) and come from old coolant? if it were changed maybe once every year or two it probably wouldn't be so bad.

I like the cascade idea. You think it's better than the flush chemicals that they sell at mcparts?

Silica dropout from the coolant is what causes this, yes. Changing the coolant every two years minimizes it, but does not stop it. Ford specifies Cascade powder for this procedure on the 6.0L and 6.4L diesels. Cascade powder does not foam eccessively, and does not attack aluminum components. However, it must be original Cascade, not Lemon or any other version. The citric acid in those will attack the aluminum components.

[Gomez]

Jim, I still stand by what I said about you a few years back. Something similar to "The world needs more experience like you have"..."practiced, burnt into the brain, and easily recovered to instruct the laypeople properly". lol Most logical info on this topic I have seen in a LOOONG while.