Nice tidbit for those with barely any heat

[greywolf200]

Yeah I know that is how it works.
Just hate having to drive to work in the morning, and have made it to work by the time the temp gauge is just barely inside the normal range on the temp gauge. Granted it is only like a 5 mile drive.

I think tomorrow I may take the dash apart and clean my heatercore, because I sure it has never been cleaned. Depends on if I feel lazy tomorrow, or just don't feel like freezing my gonads off.

My experience exactly. 5 to 7 miles to warm up. Have a new dual stage thermostat and rad cap for the B6 when it goes in.

[TorqueEffect]

Yes, the windshield was busted. Similar problem in my car. Lots of glass at the bottom of the passenger door

I've had my my dash in and out four or five times. I'm pretty fast at it now.
Are you going to install a cabin air filter? Did you take your rad cap in to have it pressure tested?

I have to stop mailing stuff out. Then I won't have so many PMs.

nah I haven't had the cap pressure tested, but last night after driving around the block, I popped the cap off to top off the coolant, and had a release of pressure in the system, so it was holding pressure. But I also went ahead and dumped a third of a bottle of that copper bar's leak Block Leak stuff, it recommended half a bottle for a 4 cylinder engine, but I figured with a 1.3l I would put only 1/3 of the bottle in.

[TorqueEffect]

anyone ever try a hotter thermostat? Seems like all the oe stats seem to open insanely early. Like my thermostat seems to open when the gauge gets to a quarter. Wouldn't the heater work better if say the stat opened just before the needle reached halfway? You know like a normal car?

Sent from my SPH-M950 using Tapatalk

[jason_]

I had a 192 but raised problems in summer on my mad scientist head mill job.... So I installed a modified 160.

The 192 laser shot on dash after 15mins of road travel was blowing 160* on a core half plugged with dust/dirt

This 160 with bypass drilled a fuzz bigger us lucky to make 120* on road. It'll do 160 if I sit in a parking lot long enough.

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[getnpsi]

It might be. You havent confirmed the full health of your core and its hoses. Id not get even hotter than 192 on an older car. Cooling systems always ruin the weakest link when they get pressure that they havent had in years. If you do go hotter drop your cap from. 1.1 to . 9 or .9 to . 7 or whatever you have. You deviate from design you gotta at least think of failsafes

[rmoltis]

anyone ever try a hotter thermostat? Seems like all the oe stats seem to open insanely early. Like my thermostat seems to open when the gauge gets to a quarter. Wouldn't the heater work better if say the stat opened just before the needle reached halfway? You know like a normal car?

Sent from my SPH-M950 using Tapatalk

The stock t-stat is designed to open partially at 195* and fully open at I think 215* in the fsm.
The quarter mark is just where the temp reaches on cold days never actually letting the tstat open.

It's not a factor of when the thermostat opens.
But rather cooling system efficiency.

The cooling systems on these 1.3l engines are capable enough of keeping the coolant temperature around 185* while driving with airflowing over the radiators in 90+ degree weather and sitting right at 195-200 at idle.
My aspire in 90+ degree weather pops the thermostat at 195* and the fan kicks on a 200* only to bring the temp back down to 195.

But in 3-20* weather the vehicle will get up to 140-150* coolant temp at idle but once air starts flowing over the radiator during cruising.
It reaches a low point of 123* consistant while driving.
Which is right above the cold line and around the quarter mark.
And that's even with the front grill wrapped in plastic and my 195* thermostat.

The reason our vehicles are so cold is because there is not a lot of heat created in the combustion chambers of our tiny engines to keep the capacity of our cooling systems up to temperature (195*) in frigid temperatures.

Anything above 40* degrees outside will keep my vehicle sitting at 140-165* coolant temps which is pretty warm.

And coolant temps in the 170-195* are toasty hot even too warm.
But that only occurs on warmer days when I don't need it.

I'm thinking the best way to increase the heat in the cooling system would be to bore out the engine.
That way more fuel and air is burned thus creating more heat as a byproduct.

I'm assuming people with 1.6-1.8 swaps don't have trouble keeping the interior cabin temps warmer in cold weather?

Also people all live in different climates.
So what may "work" for one person may not apply to you.

That's why I try to reference air temps locally with coolant temps at idle and at cursing.

[jason_]

The stock t-stat is designed to open partially at 195* and fully open at I think 215* in the fsm.
The quarter mark is just where the temp reaches on cold days never actually letting the tstat open.

It's not a factor of when the thermostat opens.
But rather cooling system efficiency.

The cooling systems on these 1.3l engines are capable enough of keeping the coolant temperature around 185* while driving with airflowing over the radiators in 90+ degree weather and sitting right at 195-200 at idle.
My aspire in 90+ degree weather pops the thermostat at 195* and the fan kicks on a 200* only to bring the temp back down to 195.

But in 3-20* weather the vehicle will get up to 140-150* coolant temp at idle but once air starts flowing over the radiator during cruising.
It reaches a low point of 123* consistant while driving.
Which is right above the cold line and around the quarter mark.
And that's even with the front grill wrapped in plastic and my 195* thermostat.

The reason our vehicles are so cold is because there is not a lot of heat created in the combustion chambers of our tiny engines to keep the capacity of our cooling systems up to temperature (195*) in frigid temperatures.

Anything above 40* degrees outside will keep my vehicle sitting at 140-165* coolant temps which is pretty warm.

And coolant temps in the 170-195* are toasty hot even too warm.
But that only occurs on warmer days when I don't need it.

I'm thinking the best way to increase the heat in the cooling system would be to bore out the engine.
That way more fuel and air is burned thus creating more heat as a byproduct.

I'm assuming people with 1.6-1.8 swaps don't have trouble keeping the interior cabin temps warmer in cold weather?

Also people all live in different climates.
So what may "work" for one person may not apply to you.

That's why I try to reference air temps locally with coolant temps at idle and at cursing.

Uhm. Isn't the purpose of the thermostat is to keep the radiator isolated, and not part of the water circuit involving the head/block/intake/heater core?

In theory, you could eliminate the radiator, granted the blower and heater core keep coolant temps below boiling.... Oh wait, I have done that, bench testing a carbed 1.3.

No thermostat, no radiator. Tied in a core and put a fan on it. Ran it for 20 mins. No issues.


30 below, 60, 100* on a summer day. Radiator is voided until thermostat opens.

The real case is a slow reacting thermal spring with high flowing water that's ice cold being sucked in from radiator that's been getting blasted with 10F* windchill, hence upsetting the coolant temps in the heater core.

Oh, my two cents. Just making note.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

[TorqueEffect]

Uhm. Isn't the purpose of the thermostat is to keep the radiator isolated, and not part of the water circuit involving the head/block/intake/heater core?

In theory, you could eliminate the radiator, granted the blower and heater core keep coolant temps below boiling.... Oh wait, I have done that, bench testing a carbed 1.3.

No thermostat, no radiator. Tied in a core and put a fan on it. Ran it for 20 mins. No issues.


30 below, 60, 100* on a summer day. Radiator is voided until thermostat opens.

The real case is a slow reacting thermal spring with high flowing water that's ice cold being sucked in from radiator that's been getting blasted with 10F* windchill, hence upsetting the coolant temps in the heater core.

Oh, my two cents. Just making note.

Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

Well I just found out, cold air is getting into the air ducts some how. I had my blower on full blast last night with the floor vents on only, but I could feel some cold air coming from the top vents.

Probably need to adjust the cables.

[frankenfester]

Well I just found out, cold air is getting into the air ducts some how. I had my blower on full blast last night with the floor vents on only, but I could feel some cold air coming from the top vents.

Probably need to adjust the cables.

Mine does exactly the same. And has for years. I've just never messed with it. So you say cables... Hmmmm...

-James

[bravekozak]

If iy's important tj ensure no leaks. Snap the cable into the support clip when the lever is in the closed position and the flap is in the closed position. It should open all the way, but if it doesn't quite get there, at least you know there will be no cold air getting in when it's closed.

[wirebrain]

Could be the foam gaskets on the flaps have rotted away too...I have this problem with mine ...sooner or later I will rip out the dash and heater assembly to replace them...

[getnpsi]

While you take it apart see if you can make a quick and easy diverter to put some warm air in the front center vents. Id love to do this myself but im lazy, and it doesnt go below 40F. When it does I'm zZzZzZzZ

[Gomez]

^On my drive home today I was actually thinking of trying that the next time I have the dash apart. Probably sometime this winter. Mine is either on def/feet or defrost only but it would be nice to add a little at front of dash when on def/feet.

[bravekozak]

My heater core is disconnected only for summer driving. I assume I can have A/C through all the ducts if I choose. I would just have to adjust the opening of all the vents with replacement rods. Its a good thing I have an extra blower assembly to experiment with.
The last power lock actuator rod that I bent, only took about five minutes and it fit great.
The rod material is quite ductile and will do extreme bends without cracking.
It also helps to have a vice with a small vertical groove in the middle of the jaws. It will hold the wire exremely firm so that it won't slip while bending.

From now on, I will be collecting finger pull lock rods from the junk yard, since they are long and straight.

[wirebrain]

The only reason we can get air conditioned air out of the vent ducts is because all the outside that enters the heater assembly has to go through the AC condenser first. Once the air enters the Heater assembly there is a flapper valve that gives only two choices for the air to go. 1:through the sides and middle vent or 2:through the heater core assembly. So unless you build some sort of connector tube, say from the defroster duct to the vent ducts....there is no way possible to get heated air to get into the vent ducts.....