G-series tranny swap

[Ghost]

Yeah it is tight in the front at the bottom pass side of the rad at the front trans mount. I got bobby's mounted yesterday and it turned out pretty well with the mounts I made. Post a pic of it if you can bobby, I left my cam there. The bp/g5 swaps I have done end up with the trans slightly under the rack.

so you put the tranny low enough that it was under the steering rack?

i think my issue is that everything was previously set up for the other tranny, so now my motor is crooked and my "custom" parts are gonna need recustomized.


if the tranny tilts back and taps the steering rack during hard acceleration, what will happen?

[Damkid]

if the tranny tilts back and taps the steering rack during hard acceleration, what will happen?

My guess would be it would cause some vibrations, but its hard to say if it'll cause any real damage

[resuwrecked]

Pics kind of hard to read, but this is looking in from the wheel well at the steering rack. Im just a little bit, about 1/2" back under the rack. You'll have to start getting into the firewall with the intake manifold if you go back any further...




Here is my crossmember, what's left of it.
Front


Rear

,

[Ghost]

here you can see how close my exhaust is to my tranny mount (a couple inches below the o2 sensor).




i dont think im ready for a subframe delete haha. i think im gonna make some adjustments to the manifolds and possibly reroute the exhaust.

[Ghost]

so i redid my motor mounts and put everything back together. in these pics you can see how close together everything is with that stupid exhaust.

the exhaust and my front tranny mount:




top view with the radiator installed:






anyhow, it works. but i am having issue with my hydro cable clutch adapter. when i tighten the adjustment enough that the tranny doesnt grind, the clutch slips terrible. when i loosen it till the transmission only slips a little, my gears grind slightly.

GR.

[bhazard]

Interesting downpipe. Is that a T3 style turbine? I have a 3" gated outlet for it that would be way way way superior to what you have.

[Ghost]

Interesting downpipe. Is that a T3 style turbine? I have a 3" gated outlet for it that would be way way way superior to what you have.

any pics of it?






im considering redoing the hydro/cable adapter.... my other option would be to change the pivot on the clutch pedal to give it more travel.

[Ghost]

so i think the hydro adapter might be fine.


im pretty sure the synchros in 1st and 2nd are junk because all the other gears shift fine.

but even with the clutch adjusted so that it engages completely almost right when i lift it off the floor, it is still slipping during boost in 4th and 5th gear why would it slip when there is slack in the clutch line? the clutch was a spec stage 2, and it was almost new when i installed it. i had the flywheel resurfaced as well.

[Ghost]

soooo im pretty sure i installed my clutch plate backwards

i called a known festiva wizard (no names) to ask him which direction the plate went on.... he said the raised side towards the tranny. now that i think about it, the raised side said fw side. fw is "flywheel"

[sasquatch]

do you think the clutch adapter is not the right ratio? i know it sounds stupid so ill explain it... when you push the clutch pedal, lets say 10 inches of travel and the fork will move 1 inch... thats a 10-1 ratio... now if you made it a 20-1 ratio you would need to push the clutch 20 inches to make the fork move the same distance (1 inch) but if you still only have 10 inches for pedal travel it will only move the fork .5 of an inch... it sounds to me like you need to make your clutch adapter a higher ratio so it can disengage the clutch fully and also have enough to engage the clutch fully and not let it slip...

make sence?

[resuwrecked]

soooo im pretty sure i installed my clutch plate backwards

i called a known festiva wizard (no names) to ask him which direction the plate went on.... he said the raised side towards the tranny. now that i think about it, the raised side said fw side. fw is "flywheel"

If you had the clutch disc in backwards it would bind and always be engaged. Raised hub side towards trans is right.

[Ghost]

do you think the clutch adapter is not the right ratio? i know it sounds stupid so ill explain it... when you push the clutch pedal, lets say 10 inches of travel and the fork will move 1 inch... thats a 10-1 ratio... now if you made it a 20-1 ratio you would need to push the clutch 20 inches to make the fork move the same distance (1 inch) but if you still only have 10 inches for pedal travel it will only move the fork .5 of an inch... it sounds to me like you need to make your clutch adapter a higher ratio so it can disengage the clutch fully and also have enough to engage the clutch fully and not let it slip...

make sence?

i understand completely what you are saying. i originally thought this was the issue, but the car rolls fine with the clutch pushed in while in 1st. it also shifts into 3rd 4th adn 5th fine, which leaves me to beleive it is the synchros not the adapter.

look at this picture. its the only one i have of the clutch. the other side says fw side, and im pretty sure the other side is the raised side.






what else could make it slip?

is it possible that the machine shop took too much off and they didnt shave off the blocks the pp mounts too? like if they shaved 1/8th of an inch offthe flywheel, the pp would be sitting 1/8 in further from the friction plate?

[shorestiva]

I havent been that impressed with spec clutches. I have a stage one in my 323 hatch and it slips with just a dp back exhaust.

[Ghost]

hmm maybe the clutch is just junk. i would think a spec stage 2 would be better than this though. my old one was a stage 5 and it was sooo much smaller.

[Ghost]

i found another picture. maybe it is in right. this angle shows that that side is raised. so i guess there is other issues.