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If you have an extra washer from the LCA to swaybar bushings they are a perfect fit on the VW struts and will allow the rubber pillow bushings to work like they are designed to.
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Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post11. The stock metal bump stop cup will need to be drilled out just slightly to fit on the new rear strut shaft.
12. The lower strut mount bushing needs to be trimmed down to fit the festiva mount. I used a grinder and just took little by little off the end face until i was able to fit in into the mount.
I put the side that i cut on to the inside of the car.
13. time to assembly your rear custom DIY coilover.
I will list the parts in order that you assemble them in.
1. strut
2. coilover sleeve with adjustment nut on it.
3. New rear spring
5. If you bought the vw bumpstops (white ones) now is the time to install the bump stop ontop of the bumpstop that came on the strut.
6. Metal spring keeper that came with the Strut.
7. Metal bump stop cup from stock strut assembly.
8. Optional is a few washers in the cup (to raise the stock rubber isolator)(i did this on one side and not the other. not sure if its needed yet or not no issues either way)
9. Stock rubber strut isoloator
NOW pictures to show what the heck i mean.
strut with sleeve on it.
Strut with sleeve, spring, vw bump stop, and metal keeper
Same as above- now w=has the stock bumpstop cup in place. (cup pointing up)
Optional washer in cup (i dont know if this is a must or not-i have no issues either way)
same as above- with stock strut rubber isolator inplace and ready to install.
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I put the stock rubber back in place to try and take out some of the harshness and noise. I didnt want metal on metal. Also the washer in the picture above were to raise the stock rubber spacer. Without the spacers the stock rubber spacer had almost 0 contact. With the washers in there the stock rubber part had some squeze to it. That squeze is what helps take away some of the chatter.
I dont know if the rubber on the spring perch is needed. Its just what i did at the time. To me the car feels super. I will have it back on the road this weekend i hope. Maybe i can do a full video review of the car and the mods and my opinion or something.
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I didn't know they went there. I was looking at this trying to figure it out.
Also, is it necessary to use the stock insulator? It looks like he put it around the vw spring perch. Is that to keep it from rubbing on the chassis and making nouse?
Last edited by dliverance; 09-21-2016, 10:51 PM.
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Originally posted by dliverance View PostCan someone elaborate a little bit more on the washers in the rear and their purpose. I think I've read over this a dozen times and I can't quite make sense of what they're doing. I haven't taken apart my rear to see why yet but I plan on installing the rear tomorrow.Last edited by Advancedynamix; 09-21-2016, 09:17 PM.
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Can someone elaborate a little bit more on the washers in the rear and their purpose. I think I've read over this a dozen times and I can't quite make sense of what they're doing. I haven't taken apart my rear to see why yet but I plan on installing the rear tomorrow.
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Originally posted by Ljh8394 View PostThank you! Just trying to figure stuff out before I drop more then what I bought the car for into it lol. Mine is gutted also just carpet, dash, and 2 front seats. If it makes that much of a difference I will for sure look into a 10 or 8 again thank you guys!
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Thank you! Just trying to figure stuff out before I drop more then what I bought the car for into it lol. Mine is gutted also just carpet, dash, and 2 front seats. If it makes that much of a difference I will for sure look into a 10 or 8 again thank you guys!
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I have 120 with a gutted car it rides firm . And I blamed it on the light rear and stiffer then stock springs. But after driving a car with 120 rear 200 front. I'm certain it's the vw rears shock valving. The other can I drove road much smother with stock aspire struts. . But I think my car has slightly better handling with less body role due to the shorter vw shocks. Now remember I was just cursing threw town not throwing it around on the track. But yo answer you question 120 will be a good fit. Even for a loaded down car
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I went 120 in the rear because i plan to tow around a bike from time to time. I have a single 10 in lucifer and its more then enough. I have had big giant systems in the past. A couple minutes and they just hurt your head. In the festiva you are so close to the sub you dont need a bunch.
When lucifer is back on the road i might even take the sub out. I want to room and the light weight in the rear. Sub is nice but normal radio is just fine as well.
Back to your question. If you must run 2 12" subs in the rear then you want 120 for sure. If you already have the 2 12"s try to trade them off for one nice high end 10. a good 10 sounds so much better in a small space then a 12 IMHO
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How substantial is the box? And what do you need 2 12s for in a car that has the same cabin space as most full sized car's trunks? 1 good 8 in the right box will drive you out of the car.
Besides, this thread is about improving the handling and adding weight is a step in the wrong direction.
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look at page 1 and its the last couple pictures. You will see excatly how i did mine. Mine have been doing great.
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