Ultimate Street suspension guide

[skeeters_keeper]

You looking for something like this Shore?



Just need to talk them into buying another 4axis capable mill... been swamped with parts the past 6+ months and haven't got the time in to knock some out.

[bhazard]

I would keep a stack of those plastic Moog shims handy if you're going that route. Chances are you'll need to re adjust, and those are a one shot deal.

As in they deform too much to reuse?

[shorestiva]

Screenshot (1) by Joseph King, on Flickr

I know the angle is oriented wrong and I have to slot the holes but im getting closer.

[Advancedynamix]

Rear alignment is a pain even with the shims I make. It's just one of those trial and error deals that takes a long time. I never mass produced the shims because they only work if you set the ride height very close to where I have it when I make them. Negative camber translates into toe in as the rear gets lower, the more angle, the more this is true. Also, rake will do the same thing. There is no easy cure for a good alignment in the rear. I would keep a stack of those plastic Moog shims handy if you're going that route. Chances are you'll need to re adjust, and those are a one shot deal.

[FestYboy]

^ also why we've been looking into removing the front sway bar all together.

[bhazard]

If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not

Having the rear bar would cause more oversteer, not understeer. A stiffer front will cause more understeer. That's why we don't run the aspire front bar.

[zoe60]

On the front on mine if you adjust the camber, it has a big effect on toe and you will have to adjust it as well. Something to be aware of. Does this sound right?

[william]

I'm running my car with advanced suspension as well but it's setting as high as possible in the rear . I think you lose cambe and gain toe as it squats right? What I use for an alinement is really a frame rack so it may not be a that accrete .

[shorestiva]

I have a aspire beam in mine I only had -1 with the advanced suspension. I spent all yesterday shimming it with washers it's a royal pain in the a** to do. You'll probably end up having to grind down washers to get it close.

[TWFodor]

If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not

Well that's good to know! I have the aspire beam already. I have heard of people removing the bar from the beam though. I may do this at some point as well.

[william]

I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?

If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not

[mikemounlio]

I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?

I was gonna do this! Until i took the rear apart. The rear spindle is held in place by 4 studs. The issue is that the studs are not in line vertically or horizontally. TYou would have to have 4 different thickness washers to make the camber and toe come out right.

I have bought some shims that are a disk. They are a hard plastic material. You line the shim up to the angle you want and cut holes in it. You take the spindle off and put the big round shim under it. i have shims that are 1.5°. I bought 2 for each side to give me -3°. I will try my best to get the fat part of the shim on the bottom. My goal is to get -3° camber and keep my 0 toe. I have heard that the shims are a pain in the butt to get right tho. Ill look for a part number.

[TWFodor]

I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?

[Advancedynamix]

I did this upgrade on my car and I've got to say it is the difference between night and day! Makes it a blast to drive. Holds the road way better and feels much more planted on the pavement. I'm no race driver so I'm a little scared to push it too hard, but I can take most freeway ramps at 55 to 60 mph with no troubles at all! The Rio strut mounts are the icing on the cake since they make it much easier to steer. I want to thank Advncedynamics and Mikemounlio for all of their effort. Would never have found out how well these cars can handle without your guidance. I ended up with about 2.9* of negative camber. (pretty good for winging it with a round file) My toe was way out after I first did it but I used the string method to get it to 0. The Caddy Hottunig coilovers work perfectly. Once again, thanks. Especially to Charlie for inventing all this and to mikemounlio for putting it in an easy to follow thread. It has been a long evolution!

Very happy to help. I'm also glad that Mike documents his work so well. The more of these cars that are out there being enjoyed, the more we will all learn about what they are capable of.

[FastOrBust]

Hahaha. I read through 20+ pages of Charlie's build yesterday. I could have saved myself some time coming here but I feel like I did some learning so I'm cool with that. I still don't full understand these camber shims yet or how they get installed. Is there a thread for that? Great info guys, I can't wait to try it for myself.