Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ultimate Street suspension guide

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
    TWFodor
    I'm A Donator!

  • TWFodor
    replied
    Did anyone else have difficulty getting the vw bumpstops to go in the spring? I basically had to force them in, unless I did it wrong. I just figured it shouldnt have been that difficult
    TWFodor
    I'm A Donator!
    Last edited by TWFodor; 09-30-2016, 06:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:

  • Advancedynamix
    Modifier

  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    That's what I'm running on Pedro now. I made aluminum spacers that are 3/8“ thick that fit snug inside them and support the rubber bushing.

    Leave a comment:

  • dliverance
    I'm A Donator!

  • dliverance
    replied
    I already put mine in without the rubber. Guess I'll take it out tomorrow. Charlie, What do you think about machining the perch down so it doesn't have the part that touches the chassis. As long as it retains the spring and insulator it should be good right?

    Leave a comment:

  • Advancedynamix
    Modifier

  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Yeah, that rubber allows the shock shaft to articulate. It's very critical to allow the shocks to articulate. The shocks don't just stay straight in one place, they move as the beam swings and flexes. If you bolt the top of the shock solid without the rubber then your shock shafts will have to flex to accommodate the shock articulation. You don't want to put that kind of load on your shocks.

    Leave a comment:

  • skeeters_keeper
    Senior Member

  • skeeters_keeper
    replied
    If you have an extra washer from the LCA to swaybar bushings they are a perfect fit on the VW struts and will allow the rubber pillow bushings to work like they are designed to.

    Leave a comment:

  • mikemounlio
    Senior Member

  • mikemounlio
    replied
    Originally posted by mikemounlio View Post
    11. The stock metal bump stop cup will need to be drilled out just slightly to fit on the new rear strut shaft.

    12. The lower strut mount bushing needs to be trimmed down to fit the festiva mount. I used a grinder and just took little by little off the end face until i was able to fit in into the mount.
    I put the side that i cut on to the inside of the car.

    13. time to assembly your rear custom DIY coilover.
    I will list the parts in order that you assemble them in.
    1. strut
    2. coilover sleeve with adjustment nut on it.
    3. New rear spring
    5. If you bought the vw bumpstops (white ones) now is the time to install the bump stop ontop of the bumpstop that came on the strut.
    6. Metal spring keeper that came with the Strut.
    7. Metal bump stop cup from stock strut assembly.
    8. Optional is a few washers in the cup (to raise the stock rubber isolator)(i did this on one side and not the other. not sure if its needed yet or not no issues either way)
    9. Stock rubber strut isoloator
    NOW pictures to show what the heck i mean.

    strut with sleeve on it.

    Strut with sleeve, spring, vw bump stop, and metal keeper

    Same as above- now w=has the stock bumpstop cup in place. (cup pointing up)

    Optional washer in cup (i dont know if this is a must or not-i have no issues either way)

    same as above- with stock strut rubber isolator inplace and ready to install.
    in this picture you can see the rubber part is lifted up over the metal CUP its sitting in. The washers are under this rubber! With the rubber lifted like this it will squeeze as you tighten the nut on the top of the shock shaft. Again may not be needed. this is just what i did. Car feels great!

    Leave a comment:

  • mikemounlio
    Senior Member

  • mikemounlio
    replied
    I put the stock rubber back in place to try and take out some of the harshness and noise. I didnt want metal on metal. Also the washer in the picture above were to raise the stock rubber spacer. Without the spacers the stock rubber spacer had almost 0 contact. With the washers in there the stock rubber part had some squeze to it. That squeze is what helps take away some of the chatter.

    I dont know if the rubber on the spring perch is needed. Its just what i did at the time. To me the car feels super. I will have it back on the road this weekend i hope. Maybe i can do a full video review of the car and the mods and my opinion or something.

    Leave a comment:

  • Ljh8394
    Junior Member

  • Ljh8394
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    Research a transmission line box for your 8 or 10... They get loud and low.
    Holy hell I have never seen a box like that lol gonna have to make my boy make one for me now!

    Leave a comment:

  • dliverance
    I'm A Donator!

  • dliverance
    replied
    I didn't know they went there. I was looking at this trying to figure it out.

    Also, is it necessary to use the stock insulator? It looks like he put it around the vw spring perch. Is that to keep it from rubbing on the chassis and making nouse?

    dliverance
    I'm A Donator!
    Last edited by dliverance; 09-21-2016, 10:51 PM.

    Leave a comment:

  • Advancedynamix
    Modifier

  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by dliverance View Post
    Can someone elaborate a little bit more on the washers in the rear and their purpose. I think I've read over this a dozen times and I can't quite make sense of what they're doing. I haven't taken apart my rear to see why yet but I plan on installing the rear tomorrow.
    Put the washers on the long side of the lower mount and face that side towards the wheel. This all works to help space the shock away from the tire to provide more clearance. This will make sense when you go to put it together.
    Advancedynamix
    Modifier
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 09-21-2016, 09:17 PM.

    Leave a comment:

  • dliverance
    I'm A Donator!

  • dliverance
    replied
    Can someone elaborate a little bit more on the washers in the rear and their purpose. I think I've read over this a dozen times and I can't quite make sense of what they're doing. I haven't taken apart my rear to see why yet but I plan on installing the rear tomorrow.

    Leave a comment:

  • FestYboy
    Moderator

  • FestYboy
    replied
    Originally posted by Ljh8394 View Post
    Thank you! Just trying to figure stuff out before I drop more then what I bought the car for into it lol. Mine is gutted also just carpet, dash, and 2 front seats. If it makes that much of a difference I will for sure look into a 10 or 8 again thank you guys!
    Research a transmission line box for your 8 or 10... They get loud and low.

    Leave a comment:

  • mikemounlio
    Senior Member

  • mikemounlio
    replied
    120 works well!

    Leave a comment:

  • Ljh8394
    Junior Member

  • Ljh8394
    replied
    Thank you! Just trying to figure stuff out before I drop more then what I bought the car for into it lol. Mine is gutted also just carpet, dash, and 2 front seats. If it makes that much of a difference I will for sure look into a 10 or 8 again thank you guys!

    Leave a comment:

  • william
    I Spend Too Much Time Here

  • william
    replied
    I have 120 with a gutted car it rides firm . And I blamed it on the light rear and stiffer then stock springs. But after driving a car with 120 rear 200 front. I'm certain it's the vw rears shock valving. The other can I drove road much smother with stock aspire struts. . But I think my car has slightly better handling with less body role due to the shorter vw shocks. Now remember I was just cursing threw town not throwing it around on the track. But yo answer you question 120 will be a good fit. Even for a loaded down car

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X