Ultimate Street suspension guide

[mikemounlio]

When installing the rears, do you use the top spring hats that came with the coilover sleeve kit or the ones that came with the hottuning coilovers? Or do you just buy a different set?

Look at my pictures. I think i showed excatly how mine were done.

[Wimp]

When installing the rears, do you use the top spring hats that came with the coilover sleeve kit or the ones that came with the hottuning coilovers? Or do you just buy a different set?

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, I see no problem with that.

[william]

I'm running just rears 120 springs and adjusters all the way up its still about 2 inches lower than stock. But handles good rides good I say go for it

[firebush357]

What are your thoughts on just running the Rear setup for a while? Race Car on a budget and all... My thoughts are possible runs this rear setup for better handling and to lower the rear some to level the ride hide. Good Idea? Bad Idea?

[Advancedynamix]

You'll want 10" Brad. You can get away with 12" (fronts, 12" rears aren't available in the 1.875" springs) if you don't want to lower the car much. 8" (front only) will work but could be bouncy with a 140lb spring (the shorter the spring the steeper the rate rises.)

[bhazard]

Okay. Currently have 200 fronts and 140 rears but when I put my mk1 rear setup together I'll prolly go for 120s and maybe put the 140s up front. This is the automatic car by the way.

What about the spring length?

[Advancedynamix]

Charlie do you still recommend 120/105 spring rates for full weight cars like mine? Are these all 10 inch springs too or?

120/105 with stock engine placement. 150/105 for g series.

150/120 for heavy loads.

[Festiver]

The 120lb/105lb rate is only slightly stiffer than stock, but the geometry of this setup and the dampening rate is such that the car will handle like a finely tuned sports car. This suspension is not your typical "tuner ride" that is harsh and bouncy. It's an improvement everywhere from stock.
The amount your tires contact your fenders depends on what tires you want to run, the offset and width of your wheels and your camber settings. With negative camber, and the right tires, you won't rub at all with slight wheel gap. Here are some examples of cars that don't rub at all or only a little in extreme cases. These cars all have rolled fenders, but the fenders have not been cut at all.




This is a 13x6 wheel, 12mm offset. Approximately 3.5" suspension drop. 175/50-13 tires. -3 degrees camber all the way around. No rubbing at all.




These wheels are 14x7 with a 15mm offset. The tires are 165/55-14. The suspension is dropped about 3.75". About 3 degrees negative camber all the way around. No rubbing and a really comfortable ride. Note: this car was driven like this for a 6000 mile road trip with no abnormal tire wear issues. It was very comfortable and was stable at well over 100mph. The car was raced in time trials racing at a local track and was capable of spec miata lap times on these tires. A very versatile setup.





The wheels are 15x7 with a 28mm offset. Tires are 165/45-15. Car is about 3.5" lower than stock. Camber is set at -2.8 degrees all the way around. Note: Car was driven on 6000 mile road trip with no abnormal tire wear issues.




The wheels are 15x6 with 43mm offset and 10mm wheel spacers for a 33mm final offset. Tires are 165/45-15. Car has a 3" drop from stock. Rear camber is stock, front is at 2 degrees. Note: all 3 cars in this photo have this suspension setup and are all daily driven by people over 50 years old. The two cars in the background have both been from coast to coast and back with no problems.

Wow those are sexy cars being as I'm gonna bp g series swap soon (hopefully) definitely bp swap by the end of summer I'll follow your suggestion of the 175 front and I'll do the 150 rear that way there is no worries about weight but right now I'm running a 16x8 +0 with a 205/40r16 nitto neogens with the aspire swap I'm like 2" out of the wheel wells so ill probably do the suspension swap to the mk2 front and mk1 rear coils and put higher bump stops in give myself like 1.5" of flex before the stops cut my fenders and widen them and im gonna aim for -3-4° camber at all corners my proper fitment monster truck

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[bhazard]

Charlie do you still recommend 120/105 spring rates for full weight cars like mine? Are these all 10 inch springs too or?

[Advancedynamix]

The 120lb/105lb rate is only slightly stiffer than stock, but the geometry of this setup and the dampening rate is such that the car will handle like a finely tuned sports car. This suspension is not your typical "tuner ride" that is harsh and bouncy. It's an improvement everywhere from stock.
The amount your tires contact your fenders depends on what tires you want to run, the offset and width of your wheels and your camber settings. With negative camber, and the right tires, you won't rub at all with slight wheel gap. Here are some examples of cars that don't rub at all or only a little in extreme cases. These cars all have rolled fenders, but the fenders have not been cut at all.




This is a 13x6 wheel, 12mm offset. Approximately 3.5" suspension drop. 175/50-13 tires. -3 degrees camber all the way around. No rubbing at all.




These wheels are 14x7 with a 15mm offset. The tires are 165/55-14. The suspension is dropped about 3.75". About 3 degrees negative camber all the way around. No rubbing and a really comfortable ride. Note: this car was driven like this for a 6000 mile road trip with no abnormal tire wear issues. It was very comfortable and was stable at well over 100mph. The car was raced in time trials racing at a local track and was capable of spec miata lap times on these tires. A very versatile setup.





The wheels are 15x7 with a 28mm offset. Tires are 165/45-15. Car is about 3.5" lower than stock. Camber is set at -2.8 degrees all the way around. Note: Car was driven on 6000 mile road trip with no abnormal tire wear issues.




The wheels are 15x6 with 43mm offset and 10mm wheel spacers for a 33mm final offset. Tires are 165/45-15. Car has a 3" drop from stock. Rear camber is stock, front is at 2 degrees. Note: all 3 cars in this photo have this suspension setup and are all daily driven by people over 50 years old. The two cars in the background have both been from coast to coast and back with no problems.

[Festiver]

So right now festiver is running aspire springs with the aspire suspension I cut the front springs and put in spring spacers to stiffin the ride so I don't rub I want to go lower because I have 1.5" of wheel gap (proper) and 8" of ground clearance (monster truck) I definitely need to cut the fenders higher but the rear I only have 2-3" before I get the inner wheel well is the suspension you named above stiff enough I can run <1" of wheel gap without destroying everything over bumps and or rubbing the tires

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[ottoparts]

15 inch Rota's

[firebush357]

My suspension is on! Need to flare some fender-wells.

Awesome Wheels... are those 14s or 15s?

[ottoparts]

Wrong terminology used. I meant that I need to roll the inner fender lip. I was tired last night.
Don't know what degree. Just eye balled for it now. I'll be taking it in shortly for a proper alignment.