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Ultimate Street suspension guide

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  • skeeters_keeper
    replied
    Originally posted by shorestiva View Post
    Awww you suck I've been working all weekend on that lol. Is that for a aspire beam or a festiva beam?
    Both. The upper slots are wide enough to accommodate both Festiva and Aspire bolt patterns. The real question in my mind is if the adjustment range will be OK for both Festiva and Aspire beams, at a "normal" lowered to ~21" fender height, the beams make different angles and probably different toe/camber settings.

    I use Sketchup at home for modeling simple stuff to be 3D printed, but it's really a pain to work with. The solidworks model probably took me 30minutes and is much easier to edit the base sketch etc than in sketchup.

    Oh yea, I printed some prototypes out too... great minds, right? helps that I have a 3D printer on my desk at work.
    Aspire:


    Festiva:

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by skeeters_keeper View Post
    You looking for something like this Shore?



    Just need to talk them into buying another 4axis capable mill... been swamped with parts the past 6+ months and haven't got the time in to knock some out.
    Awesome stuff here guys! I'm sick of making these for my cars. They take me a long time to set up. I'd much rather buy them.

    Leave a comment:


  • shorestiva
    replied
    Originally posted by bhazard View Post
    As in they deform too much to reuse?
    You have to trim them to fit the studs and stay in the correct place. So if you don't get it right in the first try you have to pull it back out and trim it again then it won't stay centered where you want it. Our alignment machine at work will tell you where to trim it and position it but that is only accurate if you're at stock ride height.

    Leave a comment:


  • shorestiva
    replied
    Awww you suck I've been working all weekend on that lol. Is that for a aspire beam or a festiva beam?

    This is for a aspire beam. I was going to have my cousin take it into his college library and print it out. (3d printers are free for student use lol) I want to make sure my dimensions are correct,
    [IMG]Screenshot (3) by Joseph King, on Flickr[/IMG]
    Last edited by shorestiva; 10-23-2016, 06:04 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • skeeters_keeper
    replied
    You looking for something like this Shore?



    Just need to talk them into buying another 4axis capable mill... been swamped with parts the past 6+ months and haven't got the time in to knock some out.

    Leave a comment:


  • bhazard
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    I would keep a stack of those plastic Moog shims handy if you're going that route. Chances are you'll need to re adjust, and those are a one shot deal.
    As in they deform too much to reuse?

    Leave a comment:


  • shorestiva
    replied
    Screenshot (1) by Joseph King, on Flickr

    I know the angle is oriented wrong and I have to slot the holes but im getting closer.

    Leave a comment:


  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Rear alignment is a pain even with the shims I make. It's just one of those trial and error deals that takes a long time. I never mass produced the shims because they only work if you set the ride height very close to where I have it when I make them. Negative camber translates into toe in as the rear gets lower, the more angle, the more this is true. Also, rake will do the same thing. There is no easy cure for a good alignment in the rear. I would keep a stack of those plastic Moog shims handy if you're going that route. Chances are you'll need to re adjust, and those are a one shot deal.

    Leave a comment:


  • FestYboy
    replied
    ^ also why we've been looking into removing the front sway bar all together.

    Leave a comment:


  • bhazard
    replied
    Originally posted by william View Post
    If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
    You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not
    Having the rear bar would cause more oversteer, not understeer. A stiffer front will cause more understeer. That's why we don't run the aspire front bar.

    Leave a comment:


  • zoe60
    replied
    On the front on mine if you adjust the camber, it has a big effect on toe and you will have to adjust it as well. Something to be aware of. Does this sound right?

    Leave a comment:


  • william
    replied
    I'm running my car with advanced suspension as well but it's setting as high as possible in the rear . I think you lose cambe and gain toe as it squats right? What I use for an alinement is really a frame rack so it may not be a that accrete .

    Leave a comment:


  • shorestiva
    replied
    I have a aspire beam in mine I only had -1 with the advanced suspension. I spent all yesterday shimming it with washers it's a royal pain in the a** to do. You'll probably end up having to grind down washers to get it close.

    Leave a comment:


  • TWFodor
    replied
    Originally posted by william View Post
    If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
    You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not
    Well that's good to know! I have the aspire beam already. I have heard of people removing the bar from the beam though. I may do this at some point as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • william
    replied
    Originally posted by TWFodor View Post
    I've seen talk of make-shift rear camber by using washers between the spindle and beam; does anyone know what the outcome of 1/8in washers would be? Or what thickness is needed for -2 degrees camber?
    If your shooting for 2 degrees swap in an aspire rear beam.
    You can remove the Swaybar and make it flex like a festiva beam the aspire axle gives you around 2 degrees negative camber. I had mine on the alinement rack and the rear was 2.2 negative. I think I'm going to remove the sway bar from the rear on mine because when really pushing it the front will under steer but I'm not sure if that's the cause or not

    Leave a comment:

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