Ultimate Street suspension guide

[dliverance]

I didn't know they went there. I was looking at this trying to figure it out.

Also, is it necessary to use the stock insulator? It looks like he put it around the vw spring perch. Is that to keep it from rubbing on the chassis and making nouse?

[Ljh8394]

Research a transmission line box for your 8 or 10... They get loud and low.

Holy hell I have never seen a box like that lol gonna have to make my boy make one for me now!

[mikemounlio]

I put the stock rubber back in place to try and take out some of the harshness and noise. I didnt want metal on metal. Also the washer in the picture above were to raise the stock rubber spacer. Without the spacers the stock rubber spacer had almost 0 contact. With the washers in there the stock rubber part had some squeze to it. That squeze is what helps take away some of the chatter.

I dont know if the rubber on the spring perch is needed. Its just what i did at the time. To me the car feels super. I will have it back on the road this weekend i hope. Maybe i can do a full video review of the car and the mods and my opinion or something.

[mikemounlio]

11. The stock metal bump stop cup will need to be drilled out just slightly to fit on the new rear strut shaft.

12. The lower strut mount bushing needs to be trimmed down to fit the festiva mount. I used a grinder and just took little by little off the end face until i was able to fit in into the mount.
I put the side that i cut on to the inside of the car.

13. time to assembly your rear custom DIY coilover.
I will list the parts in order that you assemble them in.
1. strut
2. coilover sleeve with adjustment nut on it.
3. New rear spring
5. If you bought the vw bumpstops (white ones) now is the time to install the bump stop ontop of the bumpstop that came on the strut.
6. Metal spring keeper that came with the Strut.
7. Metal bump stop cup from stock strut assembly.
8. Optional is a few washers in the cup (to raise the stock rubber isolator)(i did this on one side and not the other. not sure if its needed yet or not no issues either way)
9. Stock rubber strut isoloator
NOW pictures to show what the heck i mean.

strut with sleeve on it.

Strut with sleeve, spring, vw bump stop, and metal keeper

Same as above- now w=has the stock bumpstop cup in place. (cup pointing up)

Optional washer in cup (i dont know if this is a must or not-i have no issues either way)

same as above- with stock strut rubber isolator inplace and ready to install.

in this picture you can see the rubber part is lifted up over the metal CUP its sitting in. The washers are under this rubber! With the rubber lifted like this it will squeeze as you tighten the nut on the top of the shock shaft. Again may not be needed. this is just what i did. Car feels great!

[skeeters_keeper]

If you have an extra washer from the LCA to swaybar bushings they are a perfect fit on the VW struts and will allow the rubber pillow bushings to work like they are designed to.

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, that rubber allows the shock shaft to articulate. It's very critical to allow the shocks to articulate. The shocks don't just stay straight in one place, they move as the beam swings and flexes. If you bolt the top of the shock solid without the rubber then your shock shafts will have to flex to accommodate the shock articulation. You don't want to put that kind of load on your shocks.

[dliverance]

I already put mine in without the rubber. Guess I'll take it out tomorrow. Charlie, What do you think about machining the perch down so it doesn't have the part that touches the chassis. As long as it retains the spring and insulator it should be good right?

[Advancedynamix]

That's what I'm running on Pedro now. I made aluminum spacers that are 3/8“ thick that fit snug inside them and support the rubber bushing.

[TWFodor]

Did anyone else have difficulty getting the vw bumpstops to go in the spring? I basically had to force them in, unless I did it wrong. I just figured it shouldnt have been that difficult

[Wimp]

Did anyone else have difficulty getting the vw bumpstops to go in the spring? I basically had to force them in, unless I did it wrong. I just figured it shouldnt have been that difficult

Did you remove the largest lobe of the bumpstop? That may be your issue.

[TWFodor]

No, I didn't. I'm hearing creaking noises from the rear end so that may be the issue. Could just be too tight

[Advancedynamix]

Yeah, You can either cut off the largest 2 bulges or sand them on a belt sander, depending on how long your bump stops need to be.
The creaking sounds can also be from the top nuts being too tight. You don't want to squish the rubber bushings too much. I tighten mine until the rubber bulges out about an eight of an inch or so (less on aged bushings).
Also, if your running your car really low, the springs may be rubbing on the sleeves a bit. If this is the case, you may need to center the springs better or make sure your upper spring hat is holding the spring straight.

[TWFodor]

Yeah, You can either cut off the largest 2 bulges or sand them on a belt sander, depending on how long your bump stops need to be.

Would it be better to just sand them down or cut them off? Is there an optimum length?

[Advancedynamix]

That depends on your ride height and your requirements. If you prefer less body roll and want a firm ride or are planning on carrying a heavy load then longer is better. If you want a little more roll or a softer ride and don't plan on carrying heavy loads then shorter stops may be better. I run mine shortened, because I like a little body roll and I prefer a soft ride.

[Sleeper]

Why the heck is this not a sticky thread?