My KLZE Festiva Build Thread

[eurotiva]

I will beg to differ, I don't want to jack his thread though.

Do you have any experience with a rear mounted setup, or are you just listening to what STS says? lol

Look up my car bro............REAR turbo festiva keepin up with the dohc's.............

[krazy4]

Look up my car bro............REAR turbo festiva keepin up with the dohc's.............

Thats cool that you figured it out. Guess it's just my opinion that a front mount setup is better, but as I was thinking about it, there isn't much piping for a rear mount festiva compared to most cars.

[FB71]

It's physics. No amount of misinformation can overcome physics.

Correct. And the laws of Thermodynamics dictate that as a gas cools, it contracts. If this gas is traveling in a conductor of fixed volume, that contraction will lower the velocity of the gas. This is because much of the energy contained within the gas (in the form of heat) has already been lost, and is unrecoverable (entropy). Therefore, the gas traveling thru a point further from the source has less energy than gas traveling thru a point closer to the source. In effect, this means there is less energy available to be recovered, the further from the source. Soooo..... rear turbo=less efficient than front turbo. However, if there is more energy contained within the gas than can be usably recovered, then said losses may not significantly affect the performace of a given system, depending upon the efficiencies of the components involved.

In conclusion, both sides of the discussion are correct, to a point.

[eurotiva]

I still have A/C..........enough said.

[FB71]

I still have A/C..........enough said.

and? I have a B6T with A/C in a Festy, too...

by the way, not trying to smart.... I just don't understand?

[krazy4]

Correct. And the laws of Thermodynamics dictate that as a gas cools, it contracts. If this gas is traveling in a conductor of fixed volume, that contraction will lower the velocity of the gas. This is because much of the energy contained within the gas (in the form of heat) has already been lost, and is unrecoverable (entropy). Therefore, the gas traveling thru a point further from the source has less energy than gas traveling thru a point closer to the source. In effect, this means there is less energy available to be recovered, the further from the source. Soooo..... rear turbo=less efficient than front turbo. However, if there is more energy contained within the gas than can be usably recovered, then said losses may not significantly affect the performace of a given system, depending upon the efficiencies of the components involved.

In conclusion, both sides of the discussion are correct, to a point.

Seems like I am more correct lol.

[Nerd Racing]

the worst part is that I understood everything FB71 said... reminds me of fluid dynamics class, lol.

Got that thing running yet man?

[Damkid]

krazy4 - i do agree that a front mounted turbo is plenty more efficient then a rear mounted turbo, but plain and simple, i do not have the room in the engine bay for a turbo, i mean i'm stuffing a V6 DOHC into an econo-box engine bay, so that in itself is an accomplishment

Now i have seriously thought about doing an N/A build because yes N/A KL sound sick! but to build an engine N/A to get the same kinda power as a turbo'd engine will take more money for the N/A build,

So i know the pros and cons to each set-up, N/A or rear mounted turbo, but since i'm not a rich man and i love the sound of a turbo, i'll go the cheaper way to make more power with less money involved



Nerd - Not yet, i have a set of mounts to make before i can put the engine back in, so in the meantime i'll get the engine bay wired up so when i can drop the engine back in, i "should" just have to plug it in and fire it up :lol:

[Damkid]

Did some more studying of the wiring, (i'm not liking it so far) and the engine sensors run on two separate harnesses that connect together, so i have to sort out what wires are needed and whats not needed and i plan to cut out all the un-needed wires to keep the engine clean, what a headache

But i thought it was a good time to take a pic and show just how tight of a fit everything is at the back of the engine, but also how everything is going to work nicely

The boot gets very very close to the pulley but does not touch.... not bad for using 4 cyl axles on a V6 eh? lol



And the hanger bearing is close to the header and O2 sensor but again, it all clears so i won't have any issues and yes i know the O2 sensor is pretty beat up, i'll probably get a new one but this was for mock up

[krazy4]

Nice progress man!!! It's coming together very nicely!

[FB71]

lookin' awesome!!! Can't wait to see this thing in person!

[Tommychu]

Correct. And the laws of Thermodynamics dictate that as a gas cools, it contracts. If this gas is traveling in a conductor of fixed volume, that contraction will lower the velocity of the gas. This is because much of the energy contained within the gas (in the form of heat) has already been lost, and is unrecoverable (entropy). Therefore, the gas traveling thru a point further from the source has less energy than gas traveling thru a point closer to the source. In effect, this means there is less energy available to be recovered, the further from the source. Soooo..... rear turbo=less efficient than front turbo.

You don't want that energy though. Otherwise why run an intercooler?
Usable energy comes from the combustion reaction itself, whose timing can be controlled via spark. Too much energy (in the form of heat) in your combustion chamber before the spark will cause detonation. Usable only in the form of giving you a great story and a wall of shame trophy for your garage- usually a cratered piston or rod.

[resuwrecked]

He was talking about exhaust gasses.. from the exhaust valve on out. The further you get from the engine you lose more energy. What happens in the chamber is a different story.

[FB71]

He was talking about exhaust gasses.. from the exhaust valve on out. The further you get from the engine you lose more energy. What happens in the chamber is a different story.

^^^ correct

[Nerd Racing]

hey man, I found an interesting tid bit on how to get rid of the power steering pump all together. I am using an aspire AC Idler pulley in place of the smooth 626 tensioner, and then I am wrapping the belt around that, the crank, and the water pump. then you tension it like you would your altenator in a 4cyl by moving the ribbed idler out. I will get some pics up for you when I get the parts, they are on order right now. I am going to try and use a 28.5" 4 rib belt, the probe guys just wrapped it around the smooth tensioner but I figured a ribbed one would be safer. They use a 29.5" belt around their 95.25mm tensioner, so I am figuring a 28.5" around a 70mm idler will do the trick.