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My n/a super b3 build

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  • blkfordsedan
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    The decreased friction of the roller cam is a nice feature, but its not the real advantage. The use of roller followers allows much more aggressive ramp profiles in terms of lobe geometry. In simple terms, this translates into increased flow and a wider powerband compared to a flat tappet cam of similar lift and duration. Matt took full advantage of this when he designed the re-grind. If its the same grind he's offering on Facebook, it has more lift and duration than his other cams, wider lobe centers and a split profile. You will be impressed...this should be a sweet set-up. Now, get busy and get that thing going! I want to see some Dyno results!
    Last edited by blkfordsedan; 02-07-2013, 11:12 AM.

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  • TominMO
    replied
    Nice pics!

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  • drumnerd33
    replied
    Re: My n/a super b3 build

    Yes I had the solid tappets but didn't want to have to adjust all the time, matt said they are nice when you change cams cuz they are easy to adjust but I wouldn't take out the cam he ground specifically ground for me, also I wanted the roller rockers for less resistance.

    Gregorian, yes they fit good but a little on the long side the threads went above the head just barely so I used the washers from my oem bolts and the arp studs just to make sure the nut wasn't starting to come off the threads on the bottom

    Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2

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  • blkfordsedan
    replied
    Originally posted by sasquatch View Post
    any reason you went hydro over solid? if you get the rockers from a carb engine, they are adjustable with a nut and screw to set your lash...
    I believe he is using the Aspire roller re-grind that Matt now offers. The other cams Matt offers can be used with the mechanical adjusters or HLA's with shims (provided in the kit).

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  • gergorian
    replied
    Looks good man! I take those studs fit well then?

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    any reason you went hydro over solid? if you get the rockers from a carb engine, they are adjustable with a nut and screw to set your lash...

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  • Prafeston
    replied
    That's a lot of mumbo jumbo to me!

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  • drumnerd33
    replied
    yes now should move right along. Ran into a snag with checking the valve to piston clearance, was doing the clay method but i have hydro lifters now so wont move the valve fully without oil pressure.... so i had to talk to matt and he said to use a dial gauge and check the amount of lash gap with it then subtract that from the thickness of the clay. so i did that today and its good to go.

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  • Prafeston
    replied
    Getting close!!

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  • drumnerd33
    replied
    Got some more done today, didnt get anything done yesterday had to help my buddy fix his honduhhhh. But today got the valve to piston clearance checked.




    Checked out good so put the oil pan on.


    Also arp studs came in today so put those in.

    And finally installed and torqued head.

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  • drumnerd33
    replied
    Re: My n/a super b3 build

    Yes that is lubriplate, matt had told me to do it that way, seemed to work good. I had .002 on the crank and 2 of the rods were .002 and 2 were just under... Like .018
    Sent from my LG-LS970 using Tapatalk 2

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  • blkfordsedan
    replied
    What is that you smeared on the cylinder walls? Lubriplate 105? Never seen that done before.
    What clearance did you end up with on the mains and rods?
    Last edited by blkfordsedan; 02-02-2013, 09:23 PM.

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  • sasquatch
    replied
    hurry up... i need to hear awesome b3 POWER!!!

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  • crazyrog17
    replied
    NNNnnice!

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  • gergorian
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    Looking good man!

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