I like both of those. Anyone else wanna chime in?
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You should add some stainless -3 teflon flex brake lines. Just buy the line amd install the fittings yourself. Earl's, Russel's or Aeroquip have the parts. All you need is a hacksaw with a new blade and a vice.Last edited by bravekozak; 10-05-2014, 07:14 AM.
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If you go to cut the braided line, wrap the line were your going to cut it with some form of tape, Black tape etc, then cut through the middle of the tape that will help to slow the fray of the steel braids. Good luckAn idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.
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Originally posted by sc72 View PostIf you go to cut the braided line, wrap the line were your going to cut it with some form of tape, Black tape etc, then cut through the middle of the tape that will help to slow the fray of the steel braids. Good luck
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It's a little cramped to say the least. Fortunately, the factory B6T manifold is fairly compact in size to compensate for the extra camshaft. My advice is to trim the radiator support out and bolt it back in once you get the assembly in. I've had to do that since I upgraded from a VJ series turbo since there literally isn't enough room to muscle the turbo exhaust assembly into place.1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc
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Originally posted by Aaronbrook37 View PostIt's a little cramped to say the least. Fortunately, the factory B6T manifold is fairly compact in size to compensate for the extra camshaft. My advice is to trim the radiator support out and bolt it back in once you get the assembly in. I've had to do that since I upgraded from a VJ series turbo since there literally isn't enough room to muscle the turbo exhaust assembly into place.
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I'm working on intercooler piping routing right now, and have moved where my ignition coil, driver, and suppressor sit, instead of sitting on top of the strut tower it's now lower between it and the brake booster/mc. While chopping and welding that whole Frankenstein coil mounting piece to fit in my desired location, I've decided to install another surface to mount a coil driving transistor. Parallel ignition modules on my buddies twin charged Buick park avenue net him ridiculously hotter spark. Theoretically, a transistor under load will have more or less pumping losses in so the transistor drops voltage across its body body in result it has to be heat sinked to wick heat away from the component to avoid over heating. At lower rpms the driver has plenty of time to "charge" the coil, but at the higher rpms the time between coil collapses lessens, and you find the limits of the coil driver. Results could be sub maximal spark voltages, possibly even spark blow out under boost. Now, adding in an supplementary driver, a parallel driver will split the load between the two, allowing for faster coil charging between sparks. Which could over heat the coil, bringing the perfect opportunity to upgrade.
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I run .025" , but I also run lots of boost-Greg
Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
Redneck Engineer
FOTY - '09
5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
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