something something.... DANGER ZONE!

[Dragonhealer]

Nice work!

[shorestiva]

^ kia
And do you wanna sell one of those "cobbled" together tools you made there?

I would but when I run the tool number through our tool website it doesn't come up so it may be discontinued. There's enough of them on ebay I could make one tool and start a loaner program with it.

[shorestiva]

Nice work!

Thanks!

[shorestiva]

Got the new knuckles and rotors on. Drove it for a week before I got the new calipers on. Now I have play in the left lower ball joint. Pretty sure I've replace them since I've owned it so not too happy about that. Anyone have a preferred brand for lower control arms?






The slides were stuck on the left caliper so the outside pad wasn't doing much.

[FestYboy]

You may find that drilling for a 7/16" or M12 pinch bolt will solve ball joint play... Had to do that to Skippy Saturday. No matter how tight I made the original bolt, I could still get the pin to slip in the hole. Now the pin scallop matches the bolt diameter... No more slipping.

[ryanprins13]

Anyone have a preferred brand for lower control arms?
]

This was just discussed a bit in this thread. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60894
Short answer is moog or acdelco if you want it to last. I think ill be buying the moog ones this fall to replace the cheap amazon ones i bought not very long ago which wore out right away...

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[shorestiva]

You may find that drilling for a 7/16" or M12 pinch bolt will solve ball joint play... Had to do that to Skippy Saturday. No matter how tight I made the original bolt, I could still get the pin to slip in the hole. Now the pin scallop matches the bolt diameter... No more slipping.

It's not the pinch bolt. I had that problem on the right side but finally got it tight enough. I can watch the ball joint shaft while prying down on the arm and the shaft doesn't move at all.

[shorestiva]

This was just discussed a bit in this thread. https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60894
Short answer is moog or acdelco if you want it to last. I think ill be buying the moog ones this fall to replace the cheap amazon ones i bought not very long ago which wore out right away...

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Sweet thanks. That's what I thought but wanted to hear it from someone else before I ordered some.

[ryanprins13]

Yea, they arent really that expensive from rockauto. I always got cheap ones locally or on ebay because i didnt know about rockauto until a year and a half ago or so. The tie rod ends and ball joints never lasted long.
Another tip- make sure the washers on the sway bar are smooth and not pitted or rough before i stalling the new bushings. If they are rough they tear up the bushings pretty quick.

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[shorestiva]

Finally got my festiva drums turned down so now I can swap back to the festiva beam.

[ricko1966]

^ oops!

Just out of curiosity, can you get an accurate measurement of the gap between the outer races and see how that correlates with the "correct" shim? I'm working on a theory.

If I wanted to check that measurement I would start with a shim I knew the measurement of and was to thick check my end play and buy a shim say your check shim was 13 your end play was 1mm you would need to subtract 1mm and bearing preload to know the thickness of your required shim.

[ricko1966]

Another way would be too thin of shim and a ring of solder tighten tell a ll end play is gone meaure your solder and shim

[hofficergrover]

You get the festiva drum drilled for the aspire pattern?

[shorestiva]

Yeah. Machine shop screwed up first time so had to drill them a second time. That's why there's 3 sets of holes now.

[shorestiva]

Started on redoing the interior