Cool.sounds like you got it . In most instances for your average guy /average alignment car with no adjustment,I say just do it with a tape and a level. I am starting to realize this isn't cheap grocery getter stuff. If you have access to a rack and are trying to shim toe some of the machines themself have the software to tell you what shim with what cutouts to put where to get rear toe and camber. Does your machine have that capability?
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30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
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Look at moog #k100-329 these are similiar to what I have used. iirc you could change camber and toe with one shim and the fancy alignment machine told me what position the shim needed to be in.k100-329 that number is just for reference they come in different degrees and for different vehicles.Originally posted by ricko1966 View PostCool.sounds like you got it . In most instances for your average guy /average alignment car with no adjustment,I say just do it with a tape and a level. I am starting to realize this isn't cheap grocery getter stuff. If you have access to a rack and are trying to shim toe some of the machines themself have the software to tell you what shim with what cutouts to put where to get rear toe and camber. Does your machine have that capability?Last edited by ricko1966; 09-04-2017, 01:02 PM.30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
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I assume your talking about the plastic shims, they are nice, its what i used. He is after more thoughOriginally posted by ricko1966 View PostLook at moog #k100-329 these are similiar to what I have used. iirc you could change camber and toe with one shim and the fancy alignment machine told me what position the shim needed to be in.k100-329 that number is just for reference they come in different degrees and for different vehicles.
This is what he got: https://fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60642
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I am laughing ,seriously, because when I was doing this stuff for living people would scream bloody murder if I told them I'd have to put in a shim to bring things in to spec.Why isn't that included I think you guys are crooks etc. And you guys are going way beyond that just for fun.Originally posted by shorestiva View PostIt's the latest hunter rig so it would do the shims but since I'm lowered and going way outside what those plastic shims will do it's no help to me.30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
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Right on. Unless you have expensive tires or you want to race right away just drive it for a week or 2 or 3. The suspensions going to settle and youll have to reset it anyway. If you replaced the struts that is. I think you did.Originally posted by shorestiva View PostMessed with the alignment all sunday. I've got it close but something is still a little off. The no door pulls was getting annoying so I rigged these up.


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I see you replaced the lcas and you have 2 different looking ones. What brand(s) are they? And the urethane bushings that go close to the ball joint- were they a snug fit or loose slipping them into the lca? And are they soft like rubber or hard? I bought MAS brand ones and they feel almost like hard abs plastic and are loose when i stick em in the hole. Never had new ones so i dunno what they are supposed to be like, lol.Originally posted by shorestiva View PostNew struts are in. Took the die grinder and put some small notches in the coilover sleeves to help water and dirt drain out. Probably not necessary but whatever.


New struts modified and painted so they hopefully won't rust.

Swapped my bump stop stack around.

Some goodies from the festiva store showed up so I installed them with some new lcas since one of my ball joints was bad.


New taillight gaskets also.


Started pulling my auto belts.

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I just replaced the rear struts all the springs and front struts have been on for over a year now so it really shouldn't settle that much. Delco control arms. I guess they came from different batches so they look different from each other. These bushings fit pretty snug. I've always run the bushings that came in the control arms before so I dunno how they're supposed to fit.
Just signed up for scca track day at summit point Oct 21-22. So I've got a month to sort this thing out.Last edited by shorestiva; 09-13-2017, 08:29 PM.Better Than Nothing Racing
Way too many cars
:woc:
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Added a variable tps and deleted the vaf so I had to add a intake air temp sensor. But I think that was the only changes I had to make to the wiring harness. To me it's straight forward but this is my 3rd or 4th MS setup and I deal with wiring at work all the time. This is a older version of the Stratified generic unit. It's pretty much the same as the one they currently sell though.Originally posted by RobotKarate View PostWhat was all involved with getting the MS system up and running? Pretty straight forward? Which system did you install?Better Than Nothing Racing
Way too many cars
:woc:
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What TPS did you find to work properly? Are you running a stock distributor or the Miata CAS?Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
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Ah. I found the adapter of Thingiverse. I'm highly considering doing Microsquirt for the fact that the B6T computer is ultra limited on it's capabilities and the Microsquirt is very reasonably priced.Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
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