What board is that for the door? I got some messed up speaker holes from the previous owner that I need to fix.
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
eplastics.com You may be able to source it locally from a sign company.
Finished passenger side for now. Still debating what to do about the arm rest.
If you don't actually need arm rests door pulls could be fabbed easy from 10 inch long strips from a leather belt
30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
That's what I mean lol. Haven't decided if I want to keep the arm rest or just put some straps in for door pulls.
I've got the rear panels roughed in but I'm probably going to swap to manual belts before I finish them.
Started swapping the rear beam.
The way I had my bump stop stack installed was holding water in the coilover sleeve. I was just going to clean it up and move the bump stops around, but the shaft on the one shock is pitted pretty bad so I'm just going to replace them.
1/8in abs plastic sheet. You could probably go thinner I just guessed when I ordered.
I might have to borrow that idea. My door panels are totally trashed and I don't think I'm going to run door speakers in the car. I'd probably do really thin sheet though. Was it lighter than the stock door skins?
Current cars:
1993 Ford Festiva 5-Speed - Festiclese III - Cousin of the Banhammer - "The Jalopnik Car"
1984 Toyota Cressida - 2JZGE Swap, Turbocharged.
2013 Mazda Mazda2 - Exhaust and Wheels (the daily)
2002 Toyota Tundra - V6/Auto/2WD - The Tow Vehicle.
New struts are in. Took the die grinder and put some small notches in the coilover sleeves to help water and dirt drain out. Probably not necessary but whatever.
New struts modified and painted so they hopefully won't rust.
Swapped my bump stop stack around.
Some goodies from the festiva store showed up so I installed them with some new lcas since one of my ball joints was bad.
Manual belts are in and I messed around with the alignment for a few hours. I freaking hate the rear beam on these things. Setting alignment is such a pain in the ass. Its still a little off but it was close enough to drive home.
Manual belts are in and I messed around with the alignment for a few hours. I freaking hate the rear beam on these things. Setting alignment is such a pain in the ass. Its still a little off but it was close enough to drive home.
What are you doing with the rear alignment. Just trying to get the beam where you want it or are trying to shim for camber and or toe? How are you making your measurements?
30 + Vehicle projects right now.7 Festiva/Mazda 10 GM IDK how many others,hope that helps explain all the stupid questions/shortcuts/interchanges etc. trying to liquidate so I concentrate on the good ones. Goal finish 1 amonth using as much stuff as I already have accumulated.
^ im wondering as well took me a few tries over a couple days but i got mine finally.
Just remember as the suspension wears in over the first 600 miles it will settle and youll have to recheck and reset your ride hight to get it back to what your setting it to now.
Using the shims that skeeters_keeper made. Just trying to zero out toe. Don't care what camber ends up at. Right now I'm around -3.8 camber and -.05 toe. I'm trying to do it with the alignment rack at work.
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