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What have you done to your Festiva today!?

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  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    9.5126 fits with the studs reaching all the way to the outer ends of the mounting slots. It can't possibly slide.
    The shell is 3 5/8" long vs 4 1/2" long for the 9.5108 set that allows the movement.
    http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...?prod=9%2E5126
    I might look into this as a point of research. Is it possible that the ones that list for the Aspire have a bracket that is different than the Festy one, one that doesn't slide, or as much at least?

    Leave a comment:


  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
    I am using the same bushing and universal brackets, I am having zero issues, and this is with hard braking, acceleration, and overall spirited driving. They have been on the car for over a month, maybe two by now.
    This is why earlier, or maybe in the other thread in the arena, that it appears YMMV. I am hearing a lot of people say they had the same problem, others who haven't. I dunno. I do know, I will never use those brackets again myself.

    Leave a comment:


  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Originally posted by scitzz View Post
    Nope, not a bit of it



    The brackets slid. The bolts wouldn't hold the universal bracket in place for me. I even tried locknut washer, that was almost worse.



    Yeah, a couple have suggested that already, but I destroyed those brackets. Going to attempt it with the poly bushings and factory brackets with zerts installed.



    What set is that?
    I am using the same bushing and universal brackets, I am having zero issues, and this is with hard braking, acceleration, and overall spirited driving. They have been on the car for over a month, maybe two by now.

    Leave a comment:


  • sketchman
    replied
    Originally posted by scitzz View Post
    What set is that?
    9.5126 fits with the studs reaching all the way to the outer ends of the mounting slots. It can't possibly slide.
    The shell is 3 5/8" long vs 4 1/2" long for the 9.5108 set that allows the movement.

    Leave a comment:


  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by greywolf200 View Post
    Of course we know spirited driving had nothing to do with it....nthego:
    Nope, not a bit of it

    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    These the extra long ones that could possibly slide or did the brackets themselves get tweaked? I still have the ones that can't move because the outer ends of the mounting holes are a perfect fit to the bolts in the frame side, but if the metal is bending, they could still be a problem.
    The brackets slid. The bolts wouldn't hold the universal bracket in place for me. I even tried locknut washer, that was almost worse.

    Originally posted by 1chrisapple View Post
    if u put the bushings on take a washer and tack weld to where it wont be able to slide back and forth is the best thing.
    Yeah, a couple have suggested that already, but I destroyed those brackets. Going to attempt it with the poly bushings and factory brackets with zerts installed.

    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    If it's going to be an issue, there is one set that fits perfectly and will never move without mods. They're on my car now, and there's no way they can move. But the shell design is not as good/strong as the stock part, so I'm wondering what exactly happened in the failure.
    What set is that?

    Leave a comment:


  • sketchman
    replied
    Originally posted by 1chrisapple View Post
    if u put the bushings on take a washer and tack weld to where it wont be able to slide back and forth is the best thing.
    If it's going to be an issue, there is one set that fits perfectly and will never move without mods. They're on my car now, and there's no way they can move. But the shell design is not as good/strong as the stock part, so I'm wondering what exactly happened in the failure.
    Last edited by sketchman; 10-23-2013, 11:20 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 1chrisapple
    replied
    if u put the bushings on take a washer and tack weld to where it wont be able to slide back and forth is the best thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
    Installed my eBay gas tank. Old one was pretty clean inside but rotted around the seam. Sprayed with 1stAYD #80 as suggested by an old dood at my Mom's work. He gave me the can to try and I like the stuff so far.

    Busted a brake line but that turned out to be an easy fix with the car in the air. At McParts, I was looking at new rear brake parts and wheel cylinders so I can properly bleed the system. I broke a seized bleeder screw years ago.

    Free gas hose: McParts guy gave me the remnants since I only needed 6" of it.

    Had time to fix a squeaking rear speaker. They were 'mounted' by a single screw by the PO and free to bounce/squeak.
    I have an Ebay tank in my car as well, but ever since I put it in the float has not worked properly, will not read above 1/3rd a tank when full, but does start to drop when passed that level on the needle, other than that, the tank is great and came pre-painted, it will only read properly full when the sending unit and pump is pulled and put back in, but as soon as the tank drops below that level, it will not go back above it.

    My old tank was absolutely rotten, leaking at the seam, and one of the vapor lines rusted through. Luckily it wasn't a dog getting it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • sketchman
    replied
    Originally posted by scitzz View Post
    Not sure, I used an Aspire swaybar flipped upside down, Energy Suspension bushings with their universal brackets, a 1/8 inch steel backing plate for the flat topside of the bushing, Moog control arms and bushings. The brackets moved, and destroyed my control arms by pulling their bushing out where it connects to the frame. Elongated the mounting hole at the frame on the drivers side.

    I was actually able to save the one control arm by mounting it in a vice, with a large socket on one side, and push the bushing back into place, but the other side was too damaged to trust, warrantied it out. Everything in my front end was new in late June. I did the energy suspension upgrade when I did my clutch a few weeks ago.

    I kept the bushings themselves, but the brackets have been cut up and thrown into the quarry next door to rust away, not even sold as scrap metal. When it comes to car rules, rule number one is if it hurts baby car, it dies.


    pics http://s78.photobucket.com/user/scit...&src=pb&page=1
    These the extra long ones that could possibly slide or did the brackets themselves get tweaked? I still have the ones that can't move because the outer ends of the mounting holes are a perfect fit to the bolts in the frame side, but if the metal is bending, they could still be a problem.

    Leave a comment:


  • greywolf200
    replied
    Originally posted by scitzz View Post
    Not sure, I used an Aspire swaybar flipped upside down, Energy Suspension bushings with their universal brackets, a 1/8 inch steel backing plate for the flat topside of the bushing, Moog control arms and bushings. The brackets moved, and destroyed my control arms by pulling their bushing out where it connects to the frame. Elongated the mounting hole at the frame on the drivers side.

    I was actually able to save the one control arm by mounting it in a vice, with a large socket on one side, and push the bushing back into place, but the other side was too damaged to trust, warrantied it out. Everything in my front end was new in late June. I did the energy suspension upgrade when I did my clutch a few weeks ago.

    I kept the bushings themselves, but the brackets have been cut up and thrown into the quarry next door to rust away, not even sold as scrap metal. When it comes to car rules, rule number one is if it hurts baby car, it dies.


    pics http://s78.photobucket.com/user/scit...&src=pb&page=1
    I was afraid that mod could end up like that. I expect there is a lot force on that bar to hold the lower control arm in place. Of course we know spirited driving had nothing to do with it....nthego:

    Leave a comment:


  • Miah
    replied
    New FPR & fuel filter. Now just need to check out IAC. Also trying to source someone who will offer rebuilt front hub or I'll be playing russian roulette w/ a PNP one in the next couple days.

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyrog17
    replied
    Installed my eBay gas tank. Old one was pretty clean inside but rotted around the seam. Sprayed with 1stAYD #80 as suggested by an old dood at my Mom's work. He gave me the can to try and I like the stuff so far.

    Busted a brake line but that turned out to be an easy fix with the car in the air. At McParts, I was looking at new rear brake parts and wheel cylinders so I can properly bleed the system. I broke a seized bleeder screw years ago.

    Free gas hose: McParts guy gave me the remnants since I only needed 6" of it.

    Had time to fix a squeaking rear speaker. They were 'mounted' by a single screw by the PO and free to bounce/squeak.

    Leave a comment:


  • bravekozak
    replied
    Reinstalled the dash. Now I have to plug all the stuff in and screw in the grounds. Good news. No shorts detected in lower wiring harness. Reinstalled fender. Installed new hood release. Hooked up idle up wire to power steering pump. Hooked up three horns. Next time I will take the gray rubber mats off so you will be able to see my Festiva logo floor mats.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 10-22-2013, 09:16 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Fixed the power window motor, in the process as I type this, of putting it back together. It turned out a bit of the plastic coating on the cable broke, and was jamming the cable.

    Leave a comment:


  • scitzz
    replied
    Originally posted by ladyblaster View Post
    Where are you located at ?


    Ole glory
    His profile says Ohio.

    Leave a comment:

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