Was backing up my Festiva and turning the wheel ... It finally happened! The drive axle blew out or broke. It has been loosing greese out the one boot .... Even though the boot looked fine ...... for a few weeks and it finally went!
I had it scheduled to go get it worked on, on Friday. Now I'll have to have it towed.
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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Replaced the distributor and no dice. Still only runs advanced all the way. Going to replace the wiring harness to it first. If that doesn't do it only replacing the VFM and coil and considering it done. No way it could slipped timing just as tight and it was before.
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Originally posted by 200KGPGTP View PostCleaned out the engine bay and forward-and-backward flushed the heater core several times, a diisgusting amount of nasty came out.Last edited by bravekozak; 04-14-2013, 02:45 PM.
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Originally posted by muleskinner View PostI also put on the rear wiper arm. Found out the cargo light in the back still works. I just had a corroded connection. .
On the Cargo light, there is no switch on the door latch. When they swaped hatch backs I guess, that car didn't have a cargo light.
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Had a hectic time getting my old front main seal out but got it changed out with a new one, ordered new resonator pipe and muffler yesterday got in put on this afternoon, so much more quiet now. now time to figure out why my passenger brake light isnt coming on. thought it was blown but put new one in and still nothing, time for repair forum i think
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Took off the 13" wheels, tires, & extension & put on the 12" wheels and Daytona 155R12 steel belted radial tires today! Drove it and felt good. No rubbing on the wheel wells either.
I did this because the Aspire swap has not been done on this car & I feel keeping everything stock is good for the suspension and front end ..... Until the Aspire swap can be done! I like most things original anyway.
I also put on the rear wiper arm. Found out the cargo light in the back still works. I just had a corroded connection.
Cleaned/detailed the inside of the car from all the nicotine/smoke crap inside.Last edited by muleskinner; 04-13-2013, 08:53 PM.
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Cut off the rotten exhaust and also cut out the seized control arm
Now to just get that half attached captive nut out................
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Did some work on my 1990 Surf Blue today:
Removed the windshield washer reservoir, cleaned it out and repaired the leaking filler spout.
Replaced the left front steering knuckle with one that I pulled at LKQ back in March.
The bearing in the old one is still good but the rotor is better on the replacement one. Tie rod end and ball joint were still good.
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Realized my boot kit won't work on my Rio calipers so now I need to figure out where I can get them...
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replaced the alternator and replaced the belts...still not running well..
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Originally posted by Prafeston View PostWhere did you get all that stuff powder coated? And how much was it?
Total cost(including a sway bar not pictured) was $240, however I only paid $30 out of pocket because I had won a facebook contest a while back for free powdercoating
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Originally posted by 1990new View PostYou are correct of course... The lithium grease, while it will repel water and lubricate well, it also attracts dirt worse than graphite.
If your lock is getting hard to turn, you could give it a lithium shot, blow it out with compressed air and then use the dry graphite routinely.
Yep. Although as long as you don't do what my dad did last winter (borrowed my late model Toyota and tried to wash it on a cold day, and then doused all the lock cylinders with WD40 when they inevitably froze- they haven't worked properly since) you should be fine.
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