What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[TorqueEffect]

Checked the airflow sensor gate, moves freely and doesn't stick at all.

One of the 4 bolts that hold the sensor onto the top airbox piece snapped off. Oh well, 3 out of the 4 bolts are on there so it's not going to hurt.

[TorqueEffect]

I'm betting with your shaking and 0-60 time you are running on 3 cylinders.

I will pull the plug wires and see if anything changes.

But I just got back from doing two more 0-60 runs, and both were about 13 seconds, and I am sure if I revved it to 6k through all the gears it would have done even better.

Also both runs the engine stalled after I pushed in the clutch to brake, so I need to go check the air flow sensor gate and IAC valve.

[neanderpaul]

I'm betting with your shaking and 0-60 time you are running on 3 cylinders.

[DriverOne]

Re: What have you done to your Festiva today!?

The engine is Fuel injected btw, but according to the last owner it was out of an 89, so either it had a EFI conversion, or he was lying.

'89 autos were EFI.

[Festevil3]

I also installed my aspire rear emegency brake cable...

[Festevil3]

I installed my new rear view mirror i got for x-mas

before..


after...

[TorqueEffect]

Sorry everyone, I shouldn't be using this thread for asking questions.

It will not idle well at all if the vane or gate is stuck wide open. Sounded kind of like a race cam but did not hinder power that much. With your additional symptoms you might bang on the cat and see if it rattles, you may have varying exhaust restriction and no cat action.

The engine is Fuel injected btw, but according to the last owner it was out of an 89, so either it had a EFI conversion, or he was lying.

But I just went out and smacked the bottom of the cat, though I did it with the car still on the ground with a walking stick, no rattle that I could hear. I will get under there tomorrow with a mallet and give it a better whack.
If worse comes to worse and the cat is bad, I can always scrap it and install a straight-pipe, I could always use the money if it is worth anything. :p

Not sure if it helps but when idling it kinda sounds like a tractor, not sure if that is normal or not, I know allot of these 4 bangers sound like that. Also sometimes the engine idling will make the steering wheel shake even when idling at the proper rpms.
It does have a lifter tick that only happens when the engine is really cold, but goes away within a minute of running.

[Twistiva]

Not much.

Shot BraveKozak a PM asking about swapping standard factory mirror glass and buying some parts from overseas.

Spent most of my day going back to work after a nice Christmas break and then working on my home.

[Twistiva]

Stock 0-60 on a manual Trans festy is about 10.5.

10.5?

Ouch!, TorqueEffect's 16 seconds has gotta hurt! :cry_smile:

I'd never push my Festy even to a 16 second quarter mile; danged thing might break!....

So, Torque, even at 16 seconds, you got me beat! :highly_amused:

[Movin]

Probably should start a thread in the repair help..

It will not idle well at all if the vane or gate is stuck wide open. Sounded kind of like a race cam but did not hinder power that much. With your additional symptoms you might bang on the cat and see if it rattles, you may have varying exhaust restriction and no cat action.

[TorqueEffect]

Stock 0-60 on a manual Trans festy is about 10.5.

I am really down on power then, unless my shifting is really THAT bad.

Anybody have any ideas on where to start?

I have already given it a full tune-up, has a bigger exhaust (not my doing), changed the coolant sensor, and going to swap the Bosche o2 Sensor for a Denso once it is delivered. (Really pungent exhaust smell, like water your eyes bad, and it is not sulfur/rotten egg smell.)

[neanderpaul]

Stock 0-60 on a manual Trans festy is about 10.5.

[Movin]

If you do not do this regularly check for loose air intake connections, make sure the gate in the air flow sensor is not sticky at the wide open throttle position and check electrical connection on it as well.

The motor will flex the mounts enough to pull on hoses and connections a little on a hard pull.
Assuming you have EFI
If carbed check for worn throttle body shafts..wiggling should make idle go up and down.

[TorqueEffect]

if you have EFI, standing at the front of the car, it is on the bottom right of the intake manifold. It is a little "mase" sized canister with a blue cap, two big hoses (air) and two little hoses (coolant). carb cars don't have 'em afaik. I've contemplated removing the intake hose to mine and drowning it with seafoam or MAF cleaner, letting it sit and then turning on the car to run. I actually don't plug mine in, ever, because it is clogged. Do research before doing anything crazy, I'm not responsible.

and afaik, a true clog will make you have a sporadic idle, changing by around 500rpm at a time. Makes you look like an idiot at stop lights, lol. It could be something else, or just a fluke.

I have had stalling at stop lights and stop signs in the past, but not recently. It does sound as if this valve is just sticking a bit, a little cleaning wouldn't hurt.

[walth]

if you have EFI, standing at the front of the car, it is on the bottom right of the intake manifold. It is a little "mase" sized canister with a blue cap, two big hoses (air) and two little hoses (coolant). carb cars don't have 'em afaik. I've contemplated removing the intake hose to mine and drowning it with seafoam or MAF cleaner, letting it sit and then turning on the car to run. I actually don't plug mine in, ever, because it is clogged. Do research before doing anything crazy, I'm not responsible.

and afaik, a true clog will make you have a sporadic idle, changing by around 500rpm at a time. Makes you look like an idiot at stop lights, lol. It could be something else, or just a fluke.