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What have you done to your Festiva today!?

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  • avitsefdrof
    replied
    2016 044.jpg2016 045.jpg2016 047.jpg2016 048.jpg2016 052.jpg2016 055.jpg

    Well, paint wise the car is done....just finished the wheels, dressed them with new tires, stems, and lugs too. A few more mechanical things and its on to the next project.....my 77 C10 short box......

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  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Originally posted by Meepersly View Post
    Some people do a delete of that. I'm not sure how. If you can find one at a junkyard then that would he super cheap. I efi converted my festiva and it costed about $200 that included the IAC.

    Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk
    Actually I am being a dummy, unless there is a actual leak on the IAC itself, which is highly unlikely, it is still metered air, so it wouldn't be a vacuum leak, but probably would cause a high idle if the valve wasn't closing enough.

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  • Meepersly
    replied
    Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
    Got the belt to stop slipping, but basically had to tighten it as much as I could, the bearings are probably going to suffer though.

    Also replaced all the pinch clamps with proper clamps to hopefully get rid of my vacuum leak that's being a complete bitch to find. I think it might possibly be the IAC valve, but it's hard to tell. I would just buy a new one and throw it on there, but rockauto doesn't have them, and autozone on ebay wants over $500 for one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Air-Con...xWH8t-&vxp=mtr
    Some people do a delete of that. I'm not sure how. If you can find one at a junkyard then that would he super cheap. I efi converted my festiva and it costed about $200 that included the IAC.

    Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Got the belt to stop slipping, but basically had to tighten it as much as I could, the bearings are probably going to suffer though.

    Also replaced all the pinch clamps with proper clamps to hopefully get rid of my vacuum leak that's being a complete bitch to find. I think it might possibly be the IAC valve, but it's hard to tell. I would just buy a new one and throw it on there, but rockauto doesn't have them, and autozone on ebay wants over $500 for one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Idle-Air-Con...xWH8t-&vxp=mtr

    Leave a comment:


  • bravekozak
    replied
    I really like that idea. I am going to see if I can wire my Viper like that.

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  • David88
    replied
    It's wired to the brake pedal. Push it without the key and it dies.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    Is it the one with the combo alarm?
    If so, you could wire the alarm from the door latch circuit to the Scytek to the horn. It should disable the starter.

    Is it the Mobilink 5000 with an app for your cell phone?
    Last edited by bravekozak; 12-29-2015, 09:50 PM.

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  • David88
    replied
    Nope. Its a Scytek

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    Originally posted by David88 View Post
    Installed a new remote start.
    I presume it is not wired to the ECU. Most new cars cannot remote start with any error codes in memory.

    What make of remote?

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  • David88
    replied
    Installed a new remote start.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    I picked up my welded fuel flap popper today and delivered it straight to the paint shop along with the printed spoiler caps. Picture day will be on Wednesday. I am currently working on my center armrest this evening. I have decided not to install the Mini Cooper drink holder on the right hand side of the radio. I will discard the storage bin under the center armrest and weld in a drink holder. I will be thinking about refridgeration.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 12-28-2015, 05:55 PM.

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  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Put a new belt on (old one was squealing allot, and was missing quite a few teeth.) One annoying thing about having a/c, you have to remove that belt to get the alt/wp belt off.

    Also removed the ebay mushroom filter, because I don't trust it anymore, and put the stock drilled airbox back in with a new air filter.

    And I relocated the horn behind the grille.

    Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
    I hope you used a magnetic drain plog.




    You need a new plastic cup with yellow grease in the bottom.
    Yep, have one that I got from Autozone a couple oil changes ago, so far so good though, nothing found on it. Why the concern though?

    Also yes, too bad that plastic piece is impossible to find on it's own. But we already discussed this in the thread I made.

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  • David88
    replied
    Took the engine/trans out. Separated them. New output shaft seals. New front and rear main seals. New oil pan gasket. new water pump and timing belt. Cam and disty seals, intake, exhaust and valve cover gaskets. Installed the rebuilt steering rack from the Festiva store.

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
    Changed the oil. The Valvoline VR1 racing oil is only good for 3k Miles since it is a low detergent oil. Filled with Mobil 1 High mileage this time around.
    I hope you used a magnetic drain plog.


    Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
    Also tried to fix the slop in the wipers, found that the bushing that connects the motor to the rod is pretty much gone, the only piece of it left was holding the rod in place.
    You need a new plastic cup with yellow grease in the bottom.

    Leave a comment:


  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Changed the oil. The Valvoline VR1 racing oil is only good for 3k Miles since it is a low detergent oil. Filled with Mobil 1 High mileage this time around.

    Also tried to fix the slop in the wipers, found that the bushing that connects the motor to the rod is pretty much gone, the only piece of it left was holding the rod in place.

    Leave a comment:

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