Yesterday, had my Falkan Azenis installed, unfortunetly Discount tire failed to see the rear tires where extremely close to the rear axle beam, on turns they would rub, i corrected the issue right away and used some washers to bring the wheel out a little further, no rubbing! tried to figure out why my car keeps breaking up around 5k rpm. we found we had the wrong rotor, it sat to low and caused a major gap between the rotor and distributor points, fixed some vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Still have the issue. turbo is spiking to 20 psi and some times i get a miss fire. i think i might go COP.
looks pretty good the pic dosent do justice bc its only 5 mp but its bright and i hooked it into the dimmer on the back pannel (2 screws for the front lights) i also cut the upper light slot open more to allow even light accrosed the top. if it was a white cluster it would look better but im happy with it, i just am anal and like things to match.
You don't have to deck the head if you know for sure its true. If you have a good eye and a good 2' level you can see if the head is ok. The line bore just proves the cam journals are true and there aren't any issues on top. My valve guides were also still very true and had minor wear. So yes you can just pull one and replace the valve seals and clean all the oil galleys up. It can be done if you don't have the resources and the money to for go the whole kit and kaboodle. Just know that there may be issues down the road, or you may be lucky and everything else is ok. It's like rolling the dice, when you do one without it being checked over.
What kinda issues down the road are we talkin? Thanks for the insight.
installed my tinted windows back in the festy, tore the tach cluster apart and installed blue led strpis behind the eauges and for the front lighting also, so they will match my blue faces gauges (egt, afr, boost/vac, oil press, volt, water temp)
installed my tinted windows back in the festy, tore the tach cluster apart and installed blue led strpis behind the eauges and for the front lighting also, so they will match my blue faces gauges (egt, afr, boost/vac, oil press, volt, water temp)
I finally got my flywheel and clutch mounted up and dropped my engine back in today! Took it out to get some gas and wow, night and day difference. Good day.
And do you HAVE to deck this and that? Is there just no way you can just remove head/ reseal/ put head back on?
You don't have to deck the head if you know for sure its true. If you have a good eye and a good 2' level you can see if the head is ok. The line bore just proves the cam journals are true and there aren't any issues on top. My valve guides were also still very true and had minor wear. So yes you can just pull one and replace the valve seals and clean all the oil galleys up. It can be done if you don't have the resources and the money to for go the whole kit and kaboodle. Just know that there may be issues down the road, or you may be lucky and everything else is ok. It's like rolling the dice, when you do one without it being checked over.
I dismantled a cylinder head and got it prepared to do a valve job and replace the valve seals that were as hard as hell. Cam looks good and the lobes are all within tolerance so no new cam, yea. The head is line bored and decked, so when my seals come all i have to do is lap the valves in and re-assemble the head.
The next time kartracer does a dissmantle I will post pics or do a how to video and post it on ff or youtube,
Yesterday, had my Falkan Azenis installed, unfortunetly Discount tire failed to see the rear tires where extremely close to the rear axle beam, on turns they would rub, i corrected the issue right away and used some washers to bring the wheel out a little further, no rubbing! tried to figure out why my car keeps breaking up around 5k rpm. we found we had the wrong rotor, it sat to low and caused a major gap between the rotor and distributor points, fixed some vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Still have the issue. turbo is spiking to 20 psi and some times i get a miss fire. i think i might go COP.
How can you tell you had the wrong rotor? This isnt a common problem is it?
Yesterday, had my Falkan Azenis installed, unfortunetly Discount tire failed to see the rear tires where extremely close to the rear axle beam, on turns they would rub, i corrected the issue right away and used some washers to bring the wheel out a little further, no rubbing! tried to figure out why my car keeps breaking up around 5k rpm. we found we had the wrong rotor, it sat to low and caused a major gap between the rotor and distributor points, fixed some vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Still have the issue. turbo is spiking to 20 psi and some times i get a miss fire. i think i might go COP.
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