My Festiva is going to love me for a long while after my next oil change. Picked up more high quality oil for her today for $1/quart plus my autozoner discount. Picked up 19 quarts of Kendall GT-1 Synblend with Titanium, 10 quarts of it are 10w-30 for the warmer months, and 9 quarts of it are 5w-30 for the cooler months. Granted 10w-30 is just fine as long as it doesn't get below zero which it rarely does in Ohio. No more Walmart or Mejier brand for my car for a while, though she is going to be spoiled rotten once she has to go back. :p
Also picked up 7 quarts of Mobile 1 Synthetic ATF for $1/quart, normally $10/quart. 2 Quarts of Valvoline Dextron ATF (Might just use it for crankcase cleaning. Also 1 quart of Valvoline Dex/Merc for $1.
So yeah everyone, check all you local Autozones, and you might be able to find these deals too. Look specifically for the Kendall, and Valvoline, and Castrol stuff. Some stores already don't even have a space on the shelf anymore for Kendall. The Mobile 1 ATF is coming out with a new formula as well, but I have only seen the new stuff in only 1 Autozone in my area so far, and some stores still have the old stuff, but don't have it clearanced yet.
I know almost ever single Autozone I have been to on my routes has the Valvoline ATF fluids on clearance, but most of it has been bought up.
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Replaced the Ford grill emblem with the new one I got from Green Sales Company.
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Today I tried to figure out why my headlights weren't working. No success. Power goes through my combination switch, but does not make it to the headlamps. They used to work! If I take off my driver's fender and find a mouse ate through my 89 headlamp wires, it will be mouse warfare time. I already have glue traps set up on top of all the blocks holding the car up in the air.
I changed the brown glovebox latch on the gray glovebox with a gray one.
I also changed distributors. I encountered a serious problem. the ignition module terminals are slightly smaller on the 1986 B6 distributor.Last edited by bravekozak; 12-27-2014, 08:01 PM.
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I discovered today that the extra M4 X 0.7 stainless steel screws that I bought for my fuel tank sender, also fit both external holes on the distributor housing. I will install it tomorrow morning and report back.
Also Justin Sparr from ACP Composites emailed me regarding a cheap, rigid, lightweight cards for my doors. We shall see.
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Picked up 8 quarts of Valvoline racing synthetic 10w30 for less than $7 total. One of the AutoZones on my route were clearing it out for a dollar a quart, so combined with my discount it came to like $6.50.
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Trying to figure out how to attach the shifter stabilizer bar to the transmission when the stud is missing, and the boss is damaged.
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Just got back from the finger lakes. The Bosch B6 distributor cap that I picked up, fits just fine. I have four or five used B3 distributors that would be happy to donate a couple of wires for the sake of science. I will not need the wire to the barometric pressure sensor, since the B6 ignition module does not support that type of signal for advance.
hopeful, a pair of compound action Knipex mini cutters will make removing the old hog rings a piece of cake. Be sure to presoak the covers to get most of the dirt out before you throw it in the washing machine. The water will be black as coal.Last edited by bravekozak; 12-23-2014, 07:20 PM.
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cleaning seats
I got my hog ring pliers yesterday, so have been busy dismantling seats. The back is done, now on to the fronts.
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When I started on the front seat I found a surprise
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Two total so far, they look like they could sting a feller
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Pictures from when I changed valve cover gasket last week.
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Originally posted by 1990new View PostIf it's just new outer tie rod ends you need, PM me and I'll give you a deal you can't refuse.
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View PostCar is back on the car and running. Now to attend to the stabilizer bar. Need to get me a stud, and jbweld it to the damaged boss. Extremely sloppy shifting with that stabilizer bar just tied up to the steering rack. So as long as I am gentle, I can get into all the gears just fine. After that it will need at least some cheap tie-rod ends since my brother who is a professional mechanic said they are pretty bad, then take it to this place that I saw that does $30 alignments.
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Car is back on the car and running. Now to attend to the stabilizer bar. Need to get me a stud, and jbweld it to the damaged boss. Extremely sloppy shifting with that stabilizer bar just tied up to the steering rack. So as long as I am gentle, I can get into all the gears just fine. After that it will need at least some cheap tie-rod ends since my brother who is a professional mechanic said they are pretty bad, then take it to this place that I saw that does $30 alignments.
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I have a spec clutch in my g series if the stickers are to be believed and an old for sale ad. Either way, I love it. I don't beat it up, but it engages nicely and really grabs. When I first got the car the clutch was very stiff and temperamental, but the more I drive it the better it gets; I think it was pretty new and not broke in.
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Old transmission is off, and the replacement bolted onto the engine, and all both back in and bolted to the car. Now to put everything back together. Taking so much time, because we are working with limited light, no air tools, in a cold garage, and only doing things a few hours at a time before I have to pack back up and head home.
Axles came out without too much of a fight, my balljoints didn't want to pop out of the knuckles, so we just popped the tie-rods out instead for the clearance for the axles.
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Last night we got most of the stuff connecting to the engine and transmission unhooked, and moved out of the way. Just forgot to bring a jack. DOH!! Going back after work today to finish the job.
Hopefully I will be driving my Festy home tonight with a fully functional 5-speed.
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