What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[bravekozak]

The TAIL fuse gets it's power from the headlamp switch.
(Red/black stripe wire)
All the dash lights go through the dimmer switch.
The dimmer switch gets power from the TAIL fuse.

Are you sure you plugged the connectors on the steering column back together tight?
Does TAIL get power when you turn on the parking lights?
If so, replace the fuse marked TAIL and report back.

[jawja jim]

TorqueEffect, you are correct in that the 80s headlight switch is NOT plug and play with a 90s model. I'm not sure the "tilt" cluster bezel is different form non tilt , but it doesn't work for 90s models.

[TorqueEffect]

TorqueEffect, you are correct in that the 80s headlight switch is NOT plug and play with a 90s model. I'm not sure the "tilt" cluster bezel is different form non tilt , but it doesn't work for 90s models.

The cluster bezel will fit in the dash, but only after you swapped the steering columns. I'll take a couple pictures, but they are definitely different, the switch holes sit much lower and so that part of the bezel is more elongated than on the 80s tilt column bezel.

I'll be pulling the steering wheel in a hour or so and swapping out the headlight switch. (Also need to straighten the steering wheel.) Shame though, I like the more hefty feel of the 80s headlight switch, definitely could tell they ran the power straight through the switch on these and not through a relay.

[jawja jim]

Yeah, as far as the tilt, non-tilt, I think it's more the 80s steering column in general and its distinct cover configuration. My 89 L w/o tilt is the same bezel, I think. Do you think the small amount of tilt is worth the hassle of the swap? I had thought about doing it with a tilter from my 89 LX parts car, but after seeing how little it moved I reconsidered.

[TorqueEffect]

Yeah, as far as the tilt, non-tilt, I think it's more the 80s steering column in general and its distinct cover configuration. My 89 L w/o tilt is the same bezel, I think. Do you think the small amount of tilt is worth the hassle of the swap? I had thought about doing it with a tilter from my 89 LX parts car, but after seeing how little it moved I reconsidered.

Nah not really worth the hassle IMHO. It's neat to say you have though.
I only installed it in my car because I had one, and I was bored. lol

And even when I had the non-tilt column still on my car, but with the surround pieces off the column, the tilt-column speedo bezel still didn't fit. It's just the non-tilt column sits higher than the the highest adjustment position with the tilt column.

But yeah, it was in fact the 80s headlight switch that my car didn't like, as soon as I swapped my 90s one back in all the lights worked again. Found the 90s headlight switch is in the stalk itself, while the 80s switch isn't, the 80s stalk just has a shaft running down the middle of the stalk that moves a switch located in the headlight circuit on the combo switch assembly.

[TorqueEffect]

Deleted the hose going from the valve cover to the intake (not PCV)
Put on a breather filter to vent the crankcase to atmosphere.

Adjusted various things on the intake, just moving things around, getting them better situated.

Finally removed the huge amount of slack by adjusting the throttle cable. (Never adjusted it after dropping the BP in.)

Idles much nicer now, and of course a much much better feeling gas pedal that doesn't have any slack.

[ryanprins13]

Deleted the hose going from the valve cover to the intake (not PCV)
Put on a breather filter to vent the crankcase to atmosphere.

Adjusted various things on the intake, just moving things around, getting them better situated.

Finally removed the huge amount of slack by adjusting the throttle cable. (Never adjusted it after dropping the BP in.)

Idles much nicer now, and of course a much much better feeling gas pedal that doesn't have any slack.

Im curious as to how the car will run getting unmetered air. I debated doing the breather filter myself but didnt. I was a bit worried also about oil blowing out of it since i have a fair bit of blowby. How does it run like that?

[TorqueEffect]

Im curious as to how the car will run getting unmetered air. I debated doing the breather filter myself but didnt. I was a bit worried also about oil blowing out of it since i have a fair bit of blowby. How does it run like that?

I questioned it myself, As many people have stated the ECU accounts for the unmetered air coming in from the crankcase. But I didn't like the thought of the ECU guessing at the amount of air, and the fact that why would you need two crankcase vents into the intake? I mean, you have one already with the PCV, but at least the PCV vent isn't just letting unmetered air into the intake constantly.

[ryanprins13]

Oh? The way i understood it is that all the air is measured as it goes past the vaf, some goes into the crankcase through the tube you took off as it is sucked out of the crankcase by the pcv hose. So thats all measured. When you remove that hose and add a breather but keep the pcv then the pcv hose sucks unmetered air into the manifold through that breather.


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[TorqueEffect]

Oh? The way i understood it is that all the air is measured as it goes past the vaf, some goes into the crankcase through the tube you took off as it is sucked out of the crankcase by the pcv hose. So thats all measured. When you remove that hose and add a breather but keep the pcv then the pcv hose sucks unmetered air into the manifold through that breather.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah, there is no way that hose I deleted was providing any positive pressure to the crankcase.
Anything hooked up to the intake directly is going to pull a vacuum.

[ryanprins13]

Yeah, there is no way that hose I deleted was providing any positive pressure to the crankcase.
Anything hooked up to the intake directly is going to pull a vacuum.

It doesnt provide positive pressure, behind the throttle plate in the manifold is high vaccum, between throttle plate and air filter in the tubing is little to no vaccum. The higher vaccum sucks air through that hose from the little to no vaccum that the intake tubing sees.
But whatever, does the car run nicer now?

[TorqueEffect]

It doesnt provide positive pressure, behind the throttle plate in the manifold is high vaccum, between throttle plate and air filter in the tubing is little to no vaccum. The higher vaccum sucks air through that hose from the little to no vaccum that the intake tubing sees.
But whatever, does the car run nicer now?

Definitely seems to be running better. Lower idle speed, closer to what it should be, but that may be from the increased vacuum on the IAC hose making it collapse. Will have to get a hose that won't collapse.

But yes, I know how the intake works for the most part. While you are right that the vacuum is lower before the throttle plate, but it is still negative pressure, and some of the air will get sucked through that crank case vent.

I still don't know what that stupid little black canister that was on the intake does, considered it's hooked up to vacuum through both ports. Removed it and hasn't made any different in driveability.

[firebush357]

Definitely seems to be running better. Lower idle speed, closer to what it should be, but that may be from the increased vacuum on the IAC hose making it collapse. Will have to get a hose that won't collapse.

But yes, I know how the intake works for the most part. While you are right that the vacuum is lower before the throttle plate, but it is still negative pressure, and some of the air will get sucked through that crank case vent.

I still don't know what that stupid little black canister that was on the intake does, considered it's hooked up to vacuum through both ports. Removed it and hasn't made any different in driveability.

There is a lot of different opinions on that black canister. One being that it is just a resonator but I'm pretty sure I seen someone say that there was a Dyno test and it actually lost a slight amount of Torque without it. Small enough that it would never be noticeable. Many people run with it if they switch to a Cone filter or just want to show off the Valve cover a little more.

[fezzy]

Thermo Fan melted

I was driving my 90 year old father around the other day helping out with his errands, when I hear a "clang" noise under the hood.
Thought, "oh no, fan belt". Checked everything, seemed fine, kept driving.
5 hours later I smell that smell that comes from wires burning, luckily we got home when this happened. Checked everything again, saw some wires were over heated, removed battery terminal and went to work to try to sort this out.
Oxygen Sensor connecting wire was burnt, Temperature switch wires slightly hot and a few warm wires, but nothing obvious when tracing back looking for the cause.
Put it all back together and went home. Got home and took another look and noticed the thermo fan blade was on a slight bend.
Got the torch and then saw the cause.
Initially the plastics on the thermo fan disintegrated, causing the fan blade to not spin, causing intermittently electric motor heat to the point of heating up the wire looms.
Removed the thermo fan, as it had by this time melted from the heat of a electric motor not being able to spin when the switch came On.

Lucky,

Replaced thermo fan unit from donor car, good as it gets, no wires burning. Will need to get new oxygen sensor, it's disconnected for now.

On inspection of both fans, the plastics are not "for life", it will deteriorate sooner or later, some edges can be chipped off like biscuits.

Spoke to a mechanic friend the next day, he had Festiva as a workshop-run-around-car, and mentioned to him what happened, say's it is a common problem, the quality of the plastic used in them thermo fans is crap, won't last.

[mikemounlio]

Today i will push Lucifer even further away from my garage then it is now. I have to pressure wash my buggy so the car needs to move. Gotta hurry up and get that buggy cash so i can ship my new car here and put the spare trans in Lucifer!