What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[rmoltis]

Your body sweat should keep you cool.
Just make sure the air is moving over you.
It's natural air conditioning.
:-D

[1990new]

Reset the odometer miles to the actual on a white tach cluster I had and replaced the orange no tach cluster in Trixie with it.
Now the buzzer works when I leave my lights on and I have a tach.
I learned from my my last attempt at resetting the odometer (which I broke) and now I'm an expert.

[RhodeStiva]

How do you do that I want mine to say 0

[JPT]

Did this and turned my car into a 2,000 LB vibrator

Mounts.jpg

It's not THAT bad, but these are very stiff.

[200KGPGTP]

Yes, please explain odo mile change

[2xclutchin]

Well, I didn't do anything, but I found out that my right rear brake wheel cylinder is leaking. Oh joy.

[1990new]

How do you do that I want mine to say 0

Here is how it did it. Maybe others can improve on my method.

Work very patiently and carefully....

1. remove the cluster

2. twist and pull the bulbs out of the overhead (or take the two screws out and remove the entire holder.

3. carefully press the three bottom and two top black tabs in and remove the clear cover.

4. carefully pull the tack hand and the speedometer hand off the shaft (grip on each side where the shaft goes in an pull straight very carefully).

5 you have to remove several screws on the back of the green board that attach the face with temp and fuel guage still attached
do not remove remove the little black screws on the face that hold the temp and fuel guage in but you will have to remove the two
beside the speedometer and tach.

6 when the proper screws are removed the face will lift off the housing and expose the odometer wheels. (sorry picture would have been great here).

7. note the position of the little black plastic bracket, you will need to replace it with all the little teeth line up the same way when you replace it.
take pictures.

8. write down the current mileage and the note the position where it shows in relation to the teeth line. (take more pictures).

From this point on, the process requires slow and delicate movements and I would advise you to find an old cluster to practice on the first time.

9. first remove the odometer number shaft on the side opposite from the gear side (left) (pry up carefully).
I found this shaft impossible to remove without breaking of the front side of the supporting bracket.
Save the little piece of plastic which will probably break off.

(If someone else has a secret about about to remove it without breaking it, please add it here.)


10. carefully pull the shaft out of the geared side by applying pressure horizontally (pull it out as opposed to lifting it up)
there is a tapered knob on that shaft end that will snap out without breaking the support on that side but you have to be very careful.

11. remove the little plastic bracket that keeps the teeth lined up (be careful, it is fragile).

12. carefully slide the first wheel on the left to the left and then rotate it so the number you want shows in the position where the current mileage shows.
(a dental pick set is great for this)

13. continue one by one to separate the number wheels so the will turn independently and adjust the number to what you want.

14. one you have the number the way you want them, replace the little bracket that keep the teeth lined up.

15. replace the number shaft back into position being careful to keep the line of plastic teeth at the bottom in position so they all appear
right at the metal bar. (take pictures before you remove the number wheel so you can see how it goes back in.)

16.. once you get the number wheel shaft back in position you will need to repair the left bracket that you broke.
place a dab super glue on the broken piece and sick it back where it broke off, then place a tiny o ring over the end and a
slightly larger one over the top of the broken shaft. (sorry I should have taken picture of this before if put mine back in the car.)

16 Reassemble the unit, put it back in and if you did everything correctly everything will work like it should.


Like I said earlier, it is best to practice on and old unit until you get the knack of how to do this without destroying it.

[TorqueEffect]

Got the A/C harness all hooked up.

Now I just need to attach the temperature control cable for the evaporator, and the a/c switch in the dash.

Then the last of the big stuff, the compressor.

[Aaronbrook37]

Did this and turned my car into a 2,000 LB vibrator

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13226[/ATTACH]

It's not THAT bad, but these are very stiff.

Yep same thing happened with mine... the steering wheel goes crazy at idle now. But it killed all of my wheel hop and improved traction when I put my foot down and spool up that turbo!

[muleskinner]

With all the rain we had this past week, I found my festy was leaking bad under the dash on both sides.

I removed the front fenders and found the problems at each corner/side under the dash (rust holes). Gooped it with silicone really good, waited a day and tested it. No leaks!!!

[navdoc101]

Finished off the wireing of my condenser fan, it works perfectly; comes on when A/C turned on, & off when A/C is off. Thanks to Festyboy for his instructions & patients with me , my fool questions, & obtuseness!!

[Chobobulous]

Hey navdoc does it turn off when you drive?

[Gomez]

... obtuseness!!

I read that and think Shawshank Redemption. That's the only time I have ever heard that outside of school and the movie. lol

[navdoc101]

Hey navdoc does it turn off when you drive?

No, it just keeps crankin' 'till you turn off the A/C. It makes a high pitch whine that you can barely hear with the radio off & blower fan on low speed.

[navdoc101]

I read that and think Shawshank Redemption. That's the only time I have ever heard that outside of school and the movie. lol

You have never worked with Marines! JK!!!:nono: