What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[avitsefdrof]

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Finally got my 92 GL back....had the front end aligned and polished the hood and roof to see if it was decent....not bad. Its been nearly four months since I've driven a F'car.....felt so good. Thats what I did today.

[Tommychu]

Started thinking about suspension stuff again, then remembered that I still have no money. So I let out an exasperated sigh and got back to letting it rust away.

[greywolf200]

Carried my B6 stuff to the machine shop for cleaning. Stay tuned for the swap.

[Spike]

Cleaned out the carb best I could a few days ago (Weber swap adapter plate on its wayyyyyyyyyyyyy), and we just got tags for the ol' gal.

That '89LX drives smooooooth.

Never noticed how many white vehicles there are, though. Was hard finding in the Wal-Mart parking lot lol.

-Joe

[Oren09]

A few minor things. I corrected the washer bottle issue of the hose routing. I ran the hose on the wrong side the last time I had the bottle off so that I couldn't insert the fill tube.

Replaced the valve cover gasket. It was leaking but just didn't seem to be the main cause of my horrendous rear engine leak.
There is oil all over the block, steering rack, firewall, cat, underside of car. The valve cover was leaking, but appeared to be more of a seep and certainly not enough to cause what's going on. I've already RTVd the fuel pump plate on the head and confirmed that is not leaking.

Tonight I noticed oil on the underside of the oil filter. I removed it and the sealing ring is smaller than that of the filter I normally run.
I bought a FRAM ExtraGard (the mid level one, I think?) when I installed that engine because that was the cheapest one in stock at the time.
I checked that filter against a Purolator 14559 (or 144459?) that I normally run on my car and the Purolator sealing ring is a good quarter inch larger in diameter.
I have the Purolator on now. Maybe that small bit was enough to get pressurized oil to leak out.

[greywolf200]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13557[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]13558[/ATTACH]

Finally got my 92 GL back....had the front end aligned and polished the hood and roof to see if it was decent....not bad. Its been nearly four months since I've driven a F'car.....felt so good. Thats what I did today.

That really looks nice....:thumbs_up:

[jason_]

I want to move. All there is around here is rusty garbage. I've never owned anything nice because of the salt and chloride. And I can't afford NEW to beat the rust and chloride, and even then it's temporarily.

Yesterday i was too lazy to get out and roll the 35' gate open. Pushed it with my aspire. Scuffed the bumper and small dented/scratched fender. Didn't care. It's rusty, and will get worse. Goes along with the scratches down the driver side because of a tree branch that fell in drive. Thought I could squeeze through. Nope. Sounded like nails on a chalk board. I laughed.


If I lived elsewhere I think I'd have a different appreciation of vehicles.


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[Oren09]

^ I think the same way of my truck. It's not rusty aside from a few patches where I've skinned it on things, but it's covered in scratches. My truck is an old 4x4 and gets treated as such. I maintain it, but don't care much about the paint and bodywork. Someday when it's old enough to restore as a classic, then I'll care.

[Christ]

Nothing in the rust belt ever makes it to 'old enough to be restored as a classic', so~

Today I took the intake manifold and carb off Red.

I think I just found out why it always seemed like it was running rich once it warmed up... the temp sensor under the intake hasn't been wired in ages. I almost feel like a dummy for it, but at the same time, I don't care because it'll suit my needs better after the upcoming rounds of modification.

Question -

The coolant that flows through the intake to the heater core - can I just block those ports at the head and not worry about the heater core flow without the engine overheating?

[jason_]

It won't over heat. Mine was unplugged for months.

The ford 300 in my old sandblaster, I just hosed where the core supposed to go.

Don't block, still needs to circulate, hose the pump to the intake

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[Christ]

No I'm asking if I can block the passages out of the head entirely where they go into the intake. Im' not using a OE intake and I dont' really feel like drilling the holes and brazing in tube for the coolant to pass to the heater core if I don't have to.

I could just drill the holes there in the new plate and have someone braze in the tube for me [can't do it reliably so it won't leak] if it comes down to that... I was just hoping that it wasn't the only passage for the coolant.

[Chobobulous]

I found one hidden in some trees im going to harass the owner about it tomorrow.

[jason_]

No I'm asking if I can block the passages out of the head entirely where they go into the intake. Im' not using a OE intake and I dont' really feel like drilling the holes and brazing in tube for the coolant to pass to the heater core if I don't have to.

I could just drill the holes there in the new plate and have someone braze in the tube for me [can't do it reliably so it won't leak] if it comes down to that... I was just hoping that it wasn't the only passage for the coolant.

I wouldn't. I'd hose the head to return to the pump, skipping the intake. You block the head, the cylinder jackets and head will be stale water (I've heard this situation with hydronic called ghosting? ) and you'll get hot spots until tstat opens.

Pump pushes water into front of block, around bore, up into head, intake, then to core, back to pump housing .


In a normal system the block, head and core circulate within itself. If that doesn't keep the tstat happy, it'll open for exchange. If radiator assistance isn't enough, then fan is called.

I'd gamble a brazed leak before trying to pit water jacket bore....


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[Christ]

Yeah i'm literally only running the setup long enough to show that it runs, then selling it... however, if I can do a little more work on the mill station and save the next guy some inventing, I guess I'll just do it.

Even if I can't get them brazed, it's easy enough to thread the flange and put pipe nipples in it to create an external coolant manifold under the runners.

[ckiesman]

finally got my valve seals replaced. Its only been a year since i noticed i needed them. Soon as i was done, i started the car up, and a good sized plume of smoke came out. dosen't that figure....