I don't see anything. We need to figure this out or I'm gonna sell it, ha
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carbed festy starving
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I found last night, that the 2 halves of my carb were loose, it is held together by 3 screws on the baseplate. took it off and tightened those, got almost a full turn on all of them. it might help i dont know we will see. if you grab the secondary diaphram and twist you will see what i meanIf It's worth doin' It's worth Overdoin'
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My 88 and 89 carbed fessies has the same problem. I took one of my coworkers advice and just turned the distributor a couple of degrees advanced. That made a big difference in the idle and accelaration problem. Just thought i might give my two cents worth. Ketch Yawl later
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about 25 years ago my friend had an opel manta they thought had a fuel problem so they replaced this and that with no luck. so i go over there and attach my dwell meter to the pig tail on the distributer and it started to run good. all it was is a loose pigtail wire on the distributer that was causing in their eyes a fuel problem. just my 2 cents.
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Ok, so earlier I messed with the distributor. I went ahead and advanced it slightly (clockwise right?) and took it for a drive. Maybe its all in my head, but WOW what a difference! I don't know whats its set at (I have no idea who borrowed my timing light last), but it accelerates MUCH better. I had a little valve rattle, so I knocked it back a little and that went away. Now the idle is at like 800-900. What is the correct idle for these things?
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One of my fessies does the same thing. To correct the bucking i just guessed at advancing the timing of the distributor a couple of degrees and the bucking bout dissapeared. I blame the problem to the vacuum advance not working and am currently trying to find a replacement. The clicking in the dash is caused from the engine coolant temperature sensor that is under the intake manifold. Mine also does the same thing. I have just been too lazy to fix it as it stops after the engine warms up. Hope this helps. Ketch Yawl later.
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