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Originally posted by FestYboy
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What do you mean when you say reset the t belt ? -
First check the belt for damaged/missing teeth all the way around. Roll it to look at the entire length. There has to be a reason why it jumped timing. I can't tell from your photo but the crank needs to be set to the TDC mark. that is where the pointer lines up with the 2nd mark on the pully. There is a little pin in the pully between two of the 4 bolts holding the pullys onto the crank. When properly set you will notice the pin is in the 12 o'clock position. If the belt is good (I doubt it is) then you need to figure out why it not aligned properly. Loosen the idler pully, reset both cam and crank so the marks line up, crank @ noon, cam @ noon & 3. Use a large screwdriver to apply light tension to the back side of the timing belt idler pully, then release the tension and let the little spring apply the final tension to the timing belt. Too tight on the cam belt is not good. I think you will be buying a timing belt, and you may be able to return the ICM.'88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
'88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
'93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93Comment
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[QUOTE=XFSE71;588267]First check the belt for damaged/missing teeth all the way around. Roll it to look at the entire length. There has to be a reason why it jumped timing. I can't tell from your photo but the crank needs to be set to the TDC mark. that is where the pointer lines up with the 2nd mark on the pully. There is a little pin in the pully between two of the 4 bolts holding the pullys onto the crank. When properly set you will notice the pin is in the 12 o'clock position. If the belt is good (I doubt it is) then you need to figure out why it not aligned properly. Loosen the idler pully, reset both cam and crank so the marks line up, crank @ noon, cam @ noon & 3. Use a large screwdriver to apply light tension to the back side of the timing belt idler pully, then release the tension and let the little spring apply the final tension to the timing belt. Too tight on the cam belt is not good. I think you will be buying a timing belt, and you may be able to return the ICM.[/QUOTELast edited by Dom; 04-13-2013, 10:17 AM.Comment
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Being that i have it opened i am just going to replace that belt and water pump to play it safe, this is my commuter car and i want it to be in top condition. do i have to lower the engine to get the belt off ?Comment
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No offense but you really need to do some research before attempting this. With the correct tools. ie Impact Wrench,Hoist,Jack Stand,various cleaning tools and chemicals.I can knock out a timing belt and crank seal in @ 1.5 hrs. A wise man knows his opponent. Make sure you have everything you need and know how to do this job via the "search" feature.IMO the water pump is not an issue and they are very very reliable. What you NEED to replace is the Timing Belt tentioner pulley and the front main seal.Dont take my word for it and ask others if you like. But I'm telling you from experience CHANGE THE FRONT MAIN SEAL. And get a manual that tells you how to install the belt,align the marks,set engine timing and set belt tention etc etc etc. You'll be a much better "Shade Tree" :thumbs_up:Originally posted by Dom View PostLast edited by nitrofarm; 04-13-2013, 04:45 PM.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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I agree with you , I changed my mind about doing it . I think I would have bit off a little more than I can chew with that.Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
I'm gonna do what festy advice I put the timing back where it's suppose to be and I'm gonna take it from there. If that fails I will install a new belt and tension.
Thanks nitroLast edited by Dom; 04-13-2013, 05:09 PM.Comment
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No you do not lower the engine to change the belt or crank seal. You will have to remove the RF wheel for access to the crank bolts. you can get to all the bolts from the pully by rolling the engine over and removing a bolt 4 times. i pop the wrench on the crank bolt with a dead blow hammer to knock it loose. Shocking it like that breaks loose the sealer originally installed on the crank bolt. Don't hit your wrench with a steel hammer, that's not what you want. FSM shows a rare flexplate holding tool I've never used. Easy job, little tight but easy. the marks line up easily, roll it over by hand 720º as a final check. You'll be ok.Originally posted by Dom View Post'88 LX (VIN#30) one of the first Built 12/86
'88 L (VIN#55753) Built 12/87
'93 GL one of the last Built 5/19/93Comment
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Just make sure you set the tension correctly, and check the bearing on the tensioner for binding.Originally posted by Dom View PostSome people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
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the gas keeps coming on my 93 with 511k, but it sputters, when I let of the gas it stops. I replaced the PC valve and put in newer air filter(not easy to take out) It still sputters. My next move is would be to replace gas filter that has 511 K on it. (I purchased this 5 speed in OCT 1993 and garaged it till April 15 1995 165 miles on it - it now has 511, 517 on it today) I may try a used Mass Air Flow change.
I would sell this car for $19,500 BECAUSE it gets 46.7 mpg consistently when whipping the poop in a violent manner. When I go 55 mpg it gets 49 mpg, when it is warm out it will get 51 mpg...(I don't really want to sell it. I am addicted to the mpg)
NeaderPaul is the leader of all inside poop knowledge of Festiva Juncture secrets...
Buck ZeplenComment
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93 5 speed 511,647 miles - was sputtering. I replaced the Mass Flow, and air filter. It still sputtered.
To day April 22, 2013 I had Super Sid (drifting Champion in Manassas) change the gas filter. It does not sputter any more.
Try putting in a new gas filter. Buck Zeplen.Comment
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Status - just got in my new injectors and fuel filter , i replaced them and the car still sputters new icm,coil,wires,tps,fuel regulator,dist,cap and rotor,filters,spark plugs,pvc...dont get it im giving up ......what do you guys think..?Comment
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IIRC you never did a compression test..... without this info, we can't say for sure you dont' have a mechanical problem (like a burnt valve or broken ring). and you never got back to me about the condition of the spark plugs...
dont give up, just keep at it and learn while doing so.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Well just took timing cover off ad noticed timing jump again . Would off timing cause it to sputter ?Comment
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No offense, but it took you that long? :shock:Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
By golly, I did it in that time laying on my back it the dirt, when the Festy broke down 100+ miles away at deer camp!!!
Last edited by drddan; 04-26-2013, 03:50 PM.Dan
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