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  • #61
    Originally posted by fastivaca View Post
    I believe they are premolded to some extent therefore different for each side.
    They don't have any formed corners. I figured as long as the two weep holes are facing down and the rear quarter windows are the same size, there shouldn't be an issue with interchange. It appears to be a dual durometer extrusion that has been cut to length and fused together into one continuous loop. I believe the outer belt moldings on the doors are also interchangeable, even though two separate part numbers exist.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 09-29-2013, 04:51 PM.

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    • #62
      Here's one..

      Do '93 Festiva seatbelt retract-ors from the rear work as front belt retract-(ers?) for '88/'89 front belts?

      Just wondering because the driver's side belt in the '89 is a bit non...retract.. nonretract-y. I just removed the full '93 interior, and one of those rears works quite well.

      -Joe
      White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
      White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
      1988 LX 5-speed
      ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

      Gone:

      1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

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      • #63
        Originally posted by jason_ View Post
        Oops. I just bolted them in.

        Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
        The comment regarding premolding was in reference to the weatherstripping.

        Sent from somewhere west of here via Tapatalk!
        Ian
        Calgary AB, Canada
        93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
        59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

        "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

        Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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        • #64
          Hello. I am replacing my hood release cable tomorrow. I have pushed it through the separate teat on the main wire harness grommet and snapped it into the loom support behind the fender. Where is it supposed to come out? Right beside the wire harness? and where does it go into the front rad support? It's been a while. Does anyone have a pic?
          Last edited by bravekozak; 10-21-2013, 08:53 PM.

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          • #65
            Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
            Hello. I am replacing my hood release cable tomorrow. I have pushed it through the separate teat on the main wire harness grommet and snapped it into the loom support behind the fender. Where is it supposed to come out? Right beside the wire harness? and where does it go into the front rad support? It's been a while. Does anyone have a pic?

            Follows the loom throught the fender support and the follow the part of the loom that goes over the radiator.
            Sent you picture via email.
            Last edited by 1990new; 10-21-2013, 09:23 PM.

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            • #66
              New day, new question. I asked this question a long time ago and forgot what the answer was. On 88/89 Festivas, do you have to hold the passenger door handle up while closing to prevent the latch from unlocking?

              My drivers door does not operate this way. Why?
              I physically looked at both door latches and couldn't see any difference.
              Does anyone know?
              I would like to get at least a couple of hours sleep tonight.
              Last edited by bravekozak; 11-03-2013, 07:34 PM.

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              • #67
                Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                New day, new question. I asked this question a long time ago and forgot what the answer was. On 88/89 Festivas, do you have to hold the passenger door handle up while closing to prevent the latch from unlocking?

                My drivers door does not operate this way. Why?
                I physically looked at both door latches and couldn't see any difference.
                Does anyone know?
                I would like to get at least a couple of hours sleep tonight.
                I just checked my 89 and both of my 90's.
                The lock stays down on all doors on them without holding the handle up when closing. I don't remember if my 92 was the same.
                Last edited by 1990new; 11-03-2013, 07:46 PM.

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                • #68
                  Both my '88 and '89 require holding the handle. The '90 doesn't need hand(le)-holding, and closes all by itself. It's also potty-trained.
                  White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
                  White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
                  1988 LX 5-speed
                  ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

                  Gone:

                  1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

                  Comment


                  • #69
                    I believe the older ones are made like this were you can't just lock it and shut the door..
                    So you don't lock your keys in ..
                    I believe they where out with age and usage that's why your driveers dosen't do it any longer.
                    She's all worn out lol.

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                    • #70
                      that made my day haha

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                      • #71
                        What is the current draw on the battery from the radio memory and ECA?
                        Last edited by bravekozak; 11-05-2013, 09:13 AM.

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                        • #72
                          Does anyone have a multimeter? Easy test. Just have to shut the doors and remove the battery terminals (negative first) and then put the negative back on again. I have no ECA to test. I will report how much the Viper power lock module and dash clock draw. Let me know please. Please follow the link in my previous post.

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                          • #73
                            I tried it. Guess my battery terminals are too corroded. I'll report back when I get new ones on. Needs it anyway.
                            Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

                            Old Blue- New Tricks
                            91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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                            • #74
                              Can't make it work. It sparks as soon as I complete the circuit, then the meter shows 0.00 and that's it. Reconnect the terminals to the battery as usual, and it works fine. Just can't measure it. Hooked it up properly for high current DC too, and tried the normal connections. Just won't work.

                              Sorry.
                              Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.

                              Old Blue- New Tricks
                              91 Festiva FSM PDF - Dropbox

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                              • #75
                                Make sure you're measuring in ohms... set the dmm to the little horse shoe looking greek symbol.
                                -Zack
                                Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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