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Dickmeyer Automotive's Mazda B3 Performance Valve Train Kit

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  • gergorian, as we talked before, your cam is done. The Ultra Sonic cleaning is done on your injectors, the new circuit board (for the injector dyno) just arrived so I can finish the flowbench & dyno testing on your injectors. Here are some pix...

    http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/us...tage%202%20Cam

    http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/us...njector%20Dyno
    PROPOGATE! AND FACILITATE!

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    • Dickmeyer Automotive's Mazda B3 Performance Valve Train Kit

      Matt - two questions

      I was just looking at your Facebook page and seen the injector cleaning/flow testing.... Can you do side feed injectors?

      And considering you sell DIY header kits, what do you sell just the mandrel bends for? And what radius are the bends? I'd be interested in 1-1/2"

      1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
      1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
      2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

      1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

      If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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      • Originally posted by Damkid View Post
        Matt - two questions

        I was just looking at your Facebook page and seen the injector cleaning/flow testing.... Can you do side feed injectors?

        And considering you sell DIY header kits, what do you sell just the mandrel bends for? And what radius are the bends? I'd be interested in 1-1/2"

        I have the fittings for Chevy Cavalier side feed injectors & all top feed & TBI. The elbows are 2" or 2.5" radius w/6" leg & they are $13 each in 1.5"
        PROPOGATE! AND FACILITATE!

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        • Dickmeyer Automotive's Mazda B3 Performance Valve Train Kit

          Ok so the fitting you have for cavelier side feeds, will they work with KL (probe gt) injectors? I have a set of 850cc injectors (from an RX7) that I may use one day and it'd be nice to have them checked out, and if I never use them at least it'll be good for re-sale

          And for your elbows, when I'm ready I will be in touch, I haven't found a 2" radius til now and that should work well for me

          1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
          1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
          2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

          1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

          If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

          Comment


          • Originally posted by mattdickmeyer View Post
            gergorian, as we talked before, your cam is done. The Ultra Sonic cleaning is done on your injectors, the new circuit board (for the injector dyno) just arrived so I can finish the flowbench & dyno testing on your injectors. Here are some pix...

            http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/us...tage%202%20Cam

            http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/us...njector%20Dyno
            Ok, awesome!

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            • Thanks Matt! Yeah I received them and they look great! I saw the pictures that you posted on your Facebook page and figured thats what they were for.

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              • so if someone had a starting budget of say $5-600 what would you advise their fist step be?
                Fast....Women are fast
                Quick...Nestle is quick

                I Speak French....in German! lol.

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                • Originally posted by MiltonHavoc View Post
                  so if someone had a starting budget of say $5-600 what would you advise their fist step be?
                  Thats a good question, I am sure there are others that would like to know the answer as well

                  Edit: or you could buy another festiva
                  Last edited by Festevil3; 02-12-2013, 01:03 PM.
                  Barbie Car - '90 L-plus_2nd Gen SOHC B6+rear turbo @ 8 psi
                  Festycul - '9? 5spd_full roll cage, completely gutted, hydro g-series, B6T @ 15psi, rocketchip ecu,Willwood master cylinder, Mit. Galant VR-4 rotors, Hawk racing pads, capri knuckles, 323 LCA's, BrideLow Max seats, 5pt. harness, lexan windows, fuel cell, aluminum radiator, 323 coilovers
                  Elvis - '93 L 5spd_B3+T build in progress
                  WhiteGirl - '93 GL Immaculate shape, deciding what to build with it?

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                  • Originally posted by MiltonHavoc View Post
                    so if someone had a starting budget of say $5-600 what would you advise their fist step be?
                    Depends on whether you're sticking with the B3 or not. If you're in this thread, you're probably sticking with the B3. On that assumption, I'd recommend a cold air intake with a cone filter, MDM headers, and a high flow exhaust personally. That would probably take you to almost $500-600.
                    1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                    • Actually i would question the cold air intake.... there has been tests done on a dyno and prove that a cold air does nothing to a stock engine, in fact it showed a loss of hp in a n/a and no gain in a turbo setup. Really only time a cold air will help is if you modify the head or a different cam to where the engine can get more air, then it would help. But stock intakes are designed to flow the amount of air a stock engine needs. A header would definitely help a little but only so much on a stock engine. Honestly i would save your money and try to make big differences, However if you did go cold air/ matts header it would help a little and will help alot when you do get some more money and can dig into the motor more.

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                      • Heres a link to a cold air intake test. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCi2yo4UqPI

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                        • Originally posted by drumnerd33 View Post
                          Actually i would question the cold air intake.... there has been tests done on a dyno and prove that a cold air does nothing to a stock engine, in fact it showed a loss of hp in a n/a and no gain in a turbo setup. Really only time a cold air will help is if you modify the head or a different cam to where the engine can get more air, then it would help. But stock intakes are designed to flow the amount of air a stock engine needs. A header would definitely help a little but only so much on a stock engine. Honestly i would save your money and try to make big differences, However if you did go cold air/ matts header it would help a little and will help alot when you do get some more money and can dig into the motor more.
                          I'll respectfully disagree. K&N has proven thousands of times that engines don't need internal work or porting to make additional power. Where I will stand with you is that just throwing some pipe and a cone filter at a B3 may result in minimal changes if AIT's are not reduced by means of hogging out the old air box or shrouding the new filter. After all, even if somehow an intake gave 5% boost in power, 5% of 63 is next to nothing you'd feel other than louder engine bay noises and such. Air density is key when people throw filters so close to uninsulated headers with no heat shielding.
                          1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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                          • Watch the video... the dyno results dont lie... i agree that having a k&n is good and helps free up some airflow but the claims that the companies who make cold air intakes are way off, you may see up to 5% which even in a large engine would barely be noticable... now where you are trying to get every ounce of power like trying to gain a tenth of a second in a drag race then yes you will see it. But most people put these on stock motors and expect it to make a big difference and thats just not gonna happen, they are not a bad thing...just not what they claim to be. I have had cold air on many different cars including my 91 fox mustang, jeep xj, subaru svx, jeep yj, and they sound cool and probably helped maybe a little but never noticeably. If you really think about it...why would a car manufacturer purposely engineer an intake to where it did not give enough air to the motor?? yes you can free it up a little but its alot of money for a tiny unnoticeable gain.

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                            • Originally posted by drumnerd33 View Post
                              If you really think about it...why would a car manufacturer purposely engineer an intake to where it did not give enough air to the motor?? yes you can free it up a little but its alot of money for a tiny unnoticeable gain.
                              Well they give enough air for what the cars are designed for. Intakes are not designed for power on Festivas. They're designed to reduce engine noise, be practical in servicing, and minimize production cost like most other economy cars. If you're going to stomp the $%&^ out of a Festiva all day and night, and going to really push the limits of the motor up to redline, then that little difference can really add up for sure. I suppose either way the pipes are going to heatsoak anyway though... and I agree with you that you're not going to get big results out of an intake. This is a B3 after all. It'll take a lot more than $500-600 in budget to make a significant difference in performance that doesn't require a junkyard turbo setup or an engine swap. I'm not hating though... I love seeing these stock motors scream! Just that it requires a heck of a lot of an investment in time and money and effort to do it as you, Gregorian, and Matt have shown.
                              1988 Chevy Sprint Turbo 997cc

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