Dickmeyer Automotive's Mazda B3 Performance Valve Train Kit

[FestYboy]

so given the #s you've posted about the wall thicknesses, that means that a .120" overbore is possible and still within safe limits!!

this makes me SO

reason being is that i've found MANY lightweight factory pistons in the 74mm range that could be used instead of custom pistons which may potentially help with the costs associated with such a build (just a thought).

[gergorian]

so given the #s you've posted about the wall thicknesses, that means that a .120" overbore is possible and still within safe limits!!

this makes me SO

Me too. Right now I have a .030 overbore and I would like to go bigger in the future once I get my car running good.

[sodikartracer]

Oh my! so glad to see matt back and making killer products!! Keep up the good work!

[mattdickmeyer]

so given the #s you've posted about the wall thicknesses, that means that a .120" overbore is possible and still within safe limits!!

this makes me SO

reason being is that i've found MANY lightweight factory pistons in the 74mm range that could be used instead of custom pistons which may potentially help with the costs associated with such a build (just a thought).

Many of the blocks we deal with (DART, WORLD & FONTANA ) have a max bore for SB's of 4.200. Very rarely do I push it to the max bore, unless required for a specific application. At 4.200 minimum thickness is .185 with no problems on these engines. In the case of the B3, & other B series engines, .080 over would leave .181 wall thickness. Given the ultra small bore size, this will increase cylinder wall rigidity. I would say .100 over is about the furthest I would go & still feel comfortable about it. It is nice to leave a cushion to account for future overhauls. I do have some products in the works which will address some of these questions. This particular market is very narrow with a very small demand, but I do feel it's time you get some after market support giving you performance options that virtually all other interest groups have at their disposable. So we will see what the future brings.

[i218127]

1.3L Headers

Matt...really want headers for my 1.3L street car. Would like some with O2 port. They need to bolt up to a stock system. At one time, FMS had shorties for the 1.3.
Would like sonething like this. Cleaned up exhaust while looking stock. Got anything?

i218127

[Movin]

so given the #s you've posted about the wall thicknesses, that means that a .120" overbore is possible and still within safe limits!!

this makes me SO

reason being is that i've found MANY lightweight factory pistons in the 74mm range that could be used instead of custom pistons which may potentially help with the costs associated with such a build (just a thought).

Any more details on potential pistons and head gaskets?

[FestYboy]

not as of yet, waiting for Matt to mention that and comment.

[mattdickmeyer]

Matt...really want headers for my 1.3L street car. Would like some with O2 port. They need to bolt up to a stock system. At one time, FMS had shorties for the 1.3.
Would like sonething like this. Cleaned up exhaust while looking stock. Got anything?

i218127

My header for the Festiva comes with 2 02 Bungs. 1 for the stock sensor & 1 for tuning. They will bolt up to the stock exhaust system, you will have to make an extension pipe with a flex joint to hook up to your exhaust. My header is not designed to be a direct bolt up because that would make a reduction in power. The primary diameter & length of my header tested the best for performance & it's my opinion that if you are putting a header on, you will most likely be changing the exhaust anyways. As for a short tube header, the reality is, the 1 or 2 HP you might get wouldn't be worth the price.

[mattdickmeyer]

not as of yet, waiting for Matt to mention that and comment.

As for pistons/rods, as I said before, I will have 2 designs. A 10-1 dish & a 12-1 flattop, (1) will keep the OE measurements in terms of the pin center. This piston will be for the person who wants a tough piston that will work with the stock rods. (2) will be designed for a piston/rod assembly with altered dimensions to work with a shorter rod. The use of a shorter rod will offer several enhancements, 1st of which, will increase piston speed w/o increasing RPM ( at 6,000 RPM the power will come in as tho you are turning 7,500 ) This will be a huge advantage for the person not running a stand alone EFI. At this point I am being a little vague on the rods until testing is finished. The pistons tho are 2618 forgings with several performance enhancing features such as optimized ring locations, left/right designs ( meaning there is only 1 exhaust valve relief, 1/2 are left 3/4 are right ) Removing the unneeded exhaust VR helps flame motion across the piston top & also increases compression slightly. Also the feature anti-detonation grooves, forced pin oilers & low friction skirts. They will come with anti-friction coated skirts & optional ceramic crown coatings. They will also include tool seal pins & your choice of rings, plasma moly ductal iron, PM steel top, nitrited top or PVD top as well as gapless. I will get more in depth on features as I am asked.

[FestYboy]

so i take it you can get these pistons made in any (plausable) cylinder size?

[blkfordsedan]

What's the rod/stroke ratio of a stock B3? I hear a lot of people say that 1.7 is the "optimum", but I know it depends on a lot of different factors, and there are benefits to both long and short rods...what do you try to achieve in various different applications?

[mattdickmeyer]

so i take it you can get these pistons made in any (plausable) cylinder size?

I'm going to have several predetermined over-sizes to assign a part number to, this eases production, but custom sizes can be ordered as well. The rod ratio on a B3 is 1.629, which is great for endurance type RPM's. Many builders theorize the optimum ratio to be 1.636, but, experience has shown me the perfect ratio 1.618. For lower RPM applications where piston speed is reduced, 1.5-1.55 seems to work excellently. The rods that I am producing will be 1.57.

[mattdickmeyer]

LOL, it never hurts to try!!! To some extent, technology has been both the best and worst thing to happen to the performance automotive aftermarket. EFI, variable valve timing, multi-valve heads, OBD tuning capabilities....they've all raised the bar on performance. The stuff rolling off the production line has caused the aftermarket to compete with the OEM at levels like never before. Just like computers and electronics, it seems if you don't have to high end stuff no one wants to mess with it. The SOHC Modular Ford is a good example. Even having been the factory motor in the Mustang GT from 1996 until 2005, the 2v version has always been overshadowed by the DOHC 4v version. Up until a few years ago, there was no aftermarket performance 2v head available...only CNC ported factory heads and ultra-rare SVO heads. I find this amazing, since the production of the bread-and-butter 2v motor greatly outweighed the the more exotic 4v DOHC motor. But, the aftermarket was faced with a totally different animal with the OHC design and a 4v factory offering that's tough to best....regardless of the limited availability.

No doubt Matt has extensive insight on this.....

I have been meaning to reply to your reference in this post about the ultra rare SVO Heads ( D461 ). Here are some pix of the very 1st set ever produced & given to me by Ford in 1997 for dyno testing. It took around $5,000 worth of work to each head but they still dyno better than TFS Heads. They are going for a freshening up for a twin turbo engine I am doing for our shop car using my DT77's.

http://s1340.beta.photobucket.com/us...%20SVO%20Heads

[blkfordsedan]

OK.....now I need to clean my keyboard off. (drool). I believe one of our members, Zanzer, has a non-PI Mustang with SVO heads and intake that he bought years ago. We do have a few Mod motor fans on here, and I would love to see a thread dedicated to the Modulars. I'm guessing you probably have interesting tales, lol. I was never a big fan of the 4.6/5.4 until I bought my '04. Now I have a special place in my heart for the old 2-valve. If I ever quit spending time and money on the Festiva, the Mustang is next in line. I want to try my hand at some minor porting and clean-up on a set of used PI heads and I've been considering a set of CMS stage 1 cams (unless you have a better suggestion) and some 4.10's. I'm thinking there should be some gain in just doing some pocket blending and laying back the swirl dam a little bit, without doing much to the runners besides some clean-up. Most guys now seem to just want to buy a set of TFS heads. I don't have an extra $1500 laying around to drop on a set of TFS or CNC ported heads. I'd be happy with around 275-280 RWHP.

[blkfordsedan]

The rod ratio on a B3 is 1.629, which is great for endurance type RPM's. Many builders theorize the optimum ratio to be 1.636, but, experience has shown me the perfect ratio 1.618. For lower RPM applications where piston speed is reduced, 1.5-1.55 seems to work excellently. The rods that I am producing will be 1.57.

Just for the sake of discussion, I believe the stock B6 is 132.9mm rod length and the same 83.6mm stroke of the B3. That should put it at 1.58~1.59. What would be the chance of using a stock B6 crank and rods and using oversize (i.e. offset) wrist pins to adjust the rod/stroke ratio closer to your 1.57 target? Im thinking it should as easy and cost effective as re-sizing a set of stock rods. If you're having new pistons made, you can always alter the compression height to achieve zero deck anyway. You would have a larger rod journal diameter with the B6 crank, and a stock style rod, but I don't think that would be an issue in our low rpm/HP applications.