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  • Gawd I hate rust.....
    If you use an impact, be aware that in left hand rotation it can loosen the internal parts on some struts!
    This is one of the few places I have found a "Nut Splitter" to be off use.
    No car too fast !

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    • Originally posted by Dragonhealer View Post
      Gawd I hate rust.....
      If you use an impact, be aware that in left hand rotation it can loosen the internal parts on some struts!
      This is one of the few places I have found a "Nut Splitter" to be off use.
      im gonna go buy one right now!
      92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

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      • I believe he's saying use the nut splitter for the top nut. For the bottom bolt cut on both sides.l with a sawzall or the like.
        The bolt gets seized in the strut when you try to loosen it it can push off the tacked on nut inside the beam.
        I just cut them on both sides then turn out what's left in the nut with vice grips.
        There's a thread on there it the bolt size I believe it's available at advanced auto
        Last edited by william; 03-07-2017, 12:12 PM.

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        • In the rust belt,Torch everything first. Go sip some beer,then PB Blast it. Re-apply as needed-
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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          • Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
            In the rust belt,Torch everything first. Go sip some beer,then PB Blast it. Re-apply as needed-
            Yes, EXCEPT the lower strut mount bolt. I have light the bushing on fire twice, then theres no way to get the bolt out except to cut it off. It was like 5 years apart but i still cant believe i made the same mistake twice.
            Doesnt matter if you plan to cut it off anyway.

            Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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            • I dont mind if the rubber starts on fire. I'm replacing the rubber anyway. Just hit it with a squirt bottle and water.
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • I still have not removed the rear right hand bolt.
                I have cut off the shock and the rubber.
                The next time I try, I will first file the flats on the bolt head to the next size smaller.
                Then, I will heat the body of the bolt until it is as red as a cherry.
                Then impact.
                Last edited by bravekozak; 03-07-2017, 04:55 PM.

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                • Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                  I dont mind if the rubber starts on fire. I'm replacing the rubber anyway. Just hit it with a squirt bottle and water.
                  Well yes, but once it burns theres no way to break loose the metal bushing so you have to cut the bolt off. With it intact you have a chance of breaking loose the bushing and getting the bolt out without cutting

                  Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                  • Why cant you use a punch. Or a C-Clamp and press it out.
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                    • the nut splitter didnt work lol it just got dull, im definitely going to return that. next try will be to weep and ask politely for it to come off by itself
                      92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

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                      • Originally posted by fudge View Post
                        the nut splitter didnt work lol it just got dull, im definitely going to return that. next try will be to weep and ask politely for it to come off by itself
                        Which nut are you trying to get off? I thought you said earlier (in the post i quoted below) that you had the top ones off?
                        Originally posted by fudge View Post
                        Thanks for the quick response guys! I was trying to vise the strut but I guess I was too wimpy because I just got it off! woop
                        Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                        Why cant you use a punch. Or a C-Clamp and press it out.
                        Were both talking about the lower strut mount bolt right? The metal bushing on the strut siezes to the bolt. Rubber connects it to the strut so it doesnt turn but absorbs everything from your impact gun. If you burn it off then the bushing is loose from the strut but still stuck to the bolt. The OD of the bushing is much larger than the OD of the hole the bolt needs to come out through. So when you go to loosen the bolt off the captive nut the bushing just presses against the strut bracket.
                        Only possible way to still save the bolt is if you cut the strut off then put vicegrips on the bushing and somehow got it loose from the bolt like that.

                        Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                        • yes sir the lower strut mount bolt is giving me a good fight!!! I've been at it a good portion of the day... ugh. I dont want to save the bolt I want it to be destroyed after I get it off my car!!!!!! Right now its so stripped I can't even lock my vice grips onto it!!!! I tried wrench, then impact until it stripped, then nut splitter, now ive been trying the sockets that are for rounded bolts but those just seem to make it even rounder!!!! my dad suggests drilling a hole through the middle of the bolt. I'm glad my major is computer science lol
                          92 Festiva L - bp & hydro g, advanced coilovers, aspire brake swapped

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                          • My major is chemistry.
                            Can you tell what I am thinking?
                            HINT: It's not lubricant.
                            Last edited by bravekozak; 03-07-2017, 09:37 PM.

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                            • Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                              My major is chemistry.
                              Can you tell what I am thinking?
                              HINT: It's not lubricant.
                              Lol
                              Originally posted by fudge View Post
                              yes sir the lower strut mount bolt is giving me a good fight!!! I've been at it a good portion of the day... ugh. I dont want to save the bolt I want it to be destroyed after I get it off my car!!!!!! Right now its so stripped I can't even lock my vice grips onto it!!!! I tried wrench, then impact until it stripped, then nut splitter, now ive been trying the sockets that are for rounded bolts but those just seem to make it even rounder!!!! my dad suggests drilling a hole through the middle of the bolt. I'm glad my major is computer science lol
                              You were trying to use it on the head of the lower bolt?
                              Someone mentioned it before but What you need to do is take a sawzall on each side of the strut and cut the bolt off. Get the strut out of there and then use easy outs on whats left in the captive nut or punch that nut off and get a new nut with the bolt.
                              Read this thread for bolt size, part number and where to buy. https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...7&share_type=t
                              Rear lower shocK bolt size...

                              Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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                              • Y'all are making it more difficult than it needs to be.

                                The answer is heat. And lots of it.
                                Remove as much of the bushing as possible, then torch the rest, that will heat up the collet and release the bolt. Quick hit with an impact and she's out. The problem with the factory unit is that it can't breathe once moisture gets in there and the tolerance is too tight without any grease to dispel the moisture.

                                You want MAP gas as a minimum for this, propane doesn't have the BTUs
                                Last edited by FestYboy; 03-07-2017, 11:01 PM.
                                Trees aren't kind to me...

                                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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