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Ultimate Street suspension guide

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  • DirtMcGurt
    replied
    Ok so the rear suspension is about the only thing I haven't done yet (redid rest of car stock in most aspects) I just put on new tires and some 13"wheels 155/80r13 and now when I go over bigger bumps and pothole I hear the right rear scraping the wheel well. Now I want to do the advanced suspension but my question being if I do it will it drop the car too low where the tires will rub. Can I jack up the coilovers to raise the ride height and avoid the problem. Is this a big problem with just simply having worn out stock suspension. Would it be corrected with the modded setup. Also I'm not terribly crazy about going crazy low with the car at most 1.5" and not crazy bout that. Is there any input yall might be able to give such as different spring weights (i.e.-120 , 105 , 150 for the rears) as well as the fronts.

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  • Petna
    replied
    Love the way list everything. Good job. So are you saying that you paid for a set of coilovers and could only use the fronts. The rears could not even be ajusted?

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  • Dragonhealer
    replied
    There should be about one inch of space before the bump stop comes into play, select or cut as appropriate. If the squeek is because the diameter is too large, it can be reduced with a sander.
    Last edited by Dragonhealer; 09-29-2018, 10:02 AM.

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    Here is a video of how i narrowed mine down to fit. One i didnt get narrow enough and silicon spray helped


    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • skeeters_keeper
    replied
    The vw bump stops should be sanded to a relatively loose fit inside the spring.

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  • zoe60
    replied
    Throwing this out there- If you have the ultimate suspension and notice a creaking sound in the rear, it is probably the VW bump stops rubbing the springs if you added them of course. I've been listening to that sound for about a year. Just got done removing the bump stops and viola! total quiet back there. Well, quiet as a 30 year old Festy can reasonably be. Hope this helps someone.

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  • firebush357
    replied
    Originally posted by pitdroidtech View Post
    I'm not modding mine, just need to replace the stock units. I have the replacements - I assume a spring compressor needed for the fronts to swap the springs over to the new shocks. But couldn't work out from the pictures in the OP if the rears just pop out and if they can be put back and the spring compressed just by jacking up the wheel?
    Yeah, the back can be done by using a jack to lift the rear beam while you guide the strut up into the hole.

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  • pitdroidtech
    replied
    I'm not modding mine, just need to replace the stock units. I have the replacements - I assume a spring compressor needed for the fronts to swap the springs over to the new shocks. But couldn't work out from the pictures in the OP if the rears just pop out and if they can be put back and the spring compressed just by jacking up the wheel?

    Leave a comment:


  • wack
    replied
    Thanks mate, just checking before I got the die grinder out. My whole suspension has been stuffed since I had it, should be wonderful when its done ��

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  • w4rkry
    replied
    Originally posted by wack View Post
    Just ordered all my bits. If any Aussiesare thinking of doing it, . Between postage and Aussi dollar, it ended up being twice the suggested. Crazy hey?

    I ended up going maxpeedingrods for the front if it makes a difference.

    I was Just wondering what the consensus was on slotting the front bolts. The pic in the thread at start was slotted bottom bolt up. But but the text said to slot the top bolt down.

    I just got my coilovers an the top has way more meat in it. Dunno anything about camber ect though.


    Thanks for the input as always guys .
    The top bolt should be slotted horizontally, while the bottom bolt slots up. The picture in the beginning shows it correctly,

    Sent from my SM-N910C using Tapatalk

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  • wack
    replied
    Just ordered all my bits. If any Aussiesare thinking of doing it, . Between postage and Aussi dollar, it ended up being twice the suggested. Crazy hey?

    I ended up going maxpeedingrods for the front if it makes a difference.

    I was Just wondering what the consensus was on slotting the front bolts. The pic in the thread at start was slotted bottom bolt up. But but the text said to slot the top bolt down.

    I just got my coilovers an the top has way more meat in it. Dunno anything about camber ect though.


    Thanks for the input as always guys .

    Leave a comment:


  • shorestiva
    replied
    They're too long and the damping is different. They can be used but aren't optimal.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    Last edited by shorestiva; 07-13-2018, 11:03 AM.

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    welcomsign
    Welcome Best !

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  • FestivaBestiva
    replied
    Hey, new to modding festivas. Is there any major reason why you couldn't just use the original mk2 coilovers on the rear? Or is it just personal preference?

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  • Sleeper
    replied
    So i contacted the seller, they said

    "The valving will make the shock a bit more firm. Solo does not offer a 4cyl spec shock any longer as everyone always like the upgrade"

    I looked up reviews of the coilover on vw fourms, and the people that did the review said they prefered them over racelands and they where running 4cyl vws.

    I decided to buy them. I figure it shouldnt make a huge difference, and i plan to do an b6t swap down the road... At that price about $270 CAD shipped to my door, who can beat that!

    Sent from my LG-H812 using Tapatalk

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