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Ultimate Street suspension guide

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  • firebush357
    replied
    Originally posted by ryanprins13 View Post
    I heard it still works if you leave the vice grips on the strut shaft...

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk
    Yeah, just acts as a new bump stop! A little Noisy though...:grin:
    Last edited by firebush357; 03-06-2017, 03:01 PM.

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  • ryanprins13
    replied
    I heard it still works if you leave the vice grips on the strut shaft...

    Sent from my SM-G920W8 using Tapatalk

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  • fudge
    replied
    Thanks for the quick response guys! I was trying to vise the strut but I guess I was too wimpy because I just got it off! woop

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  • firebush357
    replied
    Also apply some PB Blaster to the threads and use an Impact. The hammering motion usually works, if not like they stated about Grab the Strut shaft with Vice Grips and then try again if you don't plan on using them again. IF that doesn't work then you probably just take an angle grinder the the shaft and just pull the shaft out of the top.

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  • Icedawg
    replied
    I assume you mean the top end of the strut. Depending on the brand of strut, you should be able to put a flat head screw driver, a small ~8 mm wrench or an allen key in the top end of the strut rod, or on the top end of the strut rod, and then work that against your force on the wrench on the nut.

    If you are removing the strut to replace it and do not care about it, then you can grab the top silvery portion of the strut rod, that slides in and out, with vice grips inside the wheel well to stop it spinning. However, that will damage the strut and mean you can not re-use it.

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  • william
    replied
    The top of the strut rod should have a flat spot for holding it from spinning. If the struts are junk vice grip the shaft from underneath if there good don't use the vice grips they will mare the shaft.
    Last edited by william; 03-06-2017, 01:29 PM.

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  • fudge
    replied
    Hey guys so im trying to remove the strut rod nuts from the back passenger side on the inside of the car. When I turn the wrench the strut is spinning too. I tried clamping the strut and the bottom nut to stop it from spinning but that doesn't seem to be working. What should I do?

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  • Grey Vw
    replied
    Originally posted by Advancedynamix View Post
    The chassis is pretty dialed in at 1" overall drop. To make it happy any lower, you'd need to get a little more creative than Capri knuckles.

    They do look cool all slammed down though, and I'm guilty as charged for running all "stanced out" for daily life. On the track though, I run it where the chassis is happy. These things handle so well, that they are quick even when set up for show.
    Thats good to know. I was trying to mimic the ride height of Pedro on the street.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Dragonhealer is the only guy I know who could answer that, as he has access to a Mini Cooper race car, and the Mk2 VW coikovers.

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  • fudge
    replied
    so my friend has a 2010 mini cooper base and I offered him my extra front springs and rear coilovers before thinking if they would actually work on his car? I couldnt find the info on the web so I decided to ask the experts

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
    But you run aspire knuckles...
    Yes, and I can't lower the car much for track driving. The rear beam angle is a problem at the same time as the sway bar angle. The chassis is pretty dialed in at 1" overall drop. To make it happy any lower, you'd need to get a little more creative than Capri knuckles.

    They do look cool all slammed down though, and I'm guilty as charged for running all "stanced out" for daily life. On the track though, I run it where the chassis is happy. These things handle so well, that they are quick even when set up for show.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 03-04-2017, 12:20 PM.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by Grey Vw View Post
    I chose 150lb with the stock engine and tranny in preparation for the the eventual swap. I thought preload was just set by having the suspension fully unloaded and then just tightening it to keep the spring set compressed. If anyone better information I would appreciate it
    Preload is important on these springs. When you have your BP/G in the car, you should have those springs preloaded about 3-4", for a total installed height of 8-9". You don't want the car to be slammed for track work. The Festiva handles it's best about 1-1.5" lower than stock. Any lower and it handles poorly.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    There is no right or wrong way to put the bump stops on. It's okay to force them down over the register bushing on the shaft (the black KYB ones will go over that welded on bushing, if you push hard enough (I've done it about 40 times now)
    If your shocks are making squeaky or grinding noises then you may have the top nuts too tight. The top rubber bushings only need to be squished a little bit (how much really depends on how old and hard your bushings are). If those top nuts are too tight, the shock can't articulate enough, and it will bend and flex the shock shaft. Those shocks go back and forth a lot when the car is being driven. That top mount NEEDS to flex easily.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 03-04-2017, 12:09 PM.

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  • shorestiva
    replied
    I wouldn't put the black down first. It's stuck inside the coilover sleeve on my setup and makes noise at low speeds. I've been lazy and haven't bothered to fix it yet lol.

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  • william
    replied
    I put the black down first then the whit on top .
    I don't think it really matters.
    I also cut off the biggest bump but you can grind it down like stated above this will put you on the bump stops earlier and if you want a low ride height you maybe on the stops all the time.
    Here's a shot of mine.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

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