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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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TorqueEffect, you are correct in that the 80s headlight switch is NOT plug and play with a 90s model. I'm not sure the "tilt" cluster bezel is different form non tilt , but it doesn't work for 90s models.
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The TAIL fuse gets it's power from the headlamp switch.
(Red/black stripe wire)
All the dash lights go through the dimmer switch.
The dimmer switch gets power from the TAIL fuse.
Are you sure you plugged the connectors on the steering column back together tight?
Does TAIL get power when you turn on the parking lights?
If so, replace the fuse marked TAIL and report back.Last edited by bravekozak; 10-25-2016, 05:43 AM.
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Got the tilt steering column installed from my part's car.
Gotta love fighting with those stupid u-joints flopping around when you are trying to finangle the steering column into place. Probably would have been much easier with an extra pair of hands. lol
Now either the 80s headlight switches don't work with the 90s models, or one of the plugs didn't get plugged in all the way, as I have headlights, but none of the corner lights, or dash lights come on. Not a fuse as it was working before installing the steering column, plus I doubled checked the fuses.
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Last night i got one of my racing seats in. Lucifer is making progress all the time.
Tonight i hope to do some exhaust work.
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Did a compression test the other day, all cylinders in the 150-165 range. So not a head gasket issue.
Removed, cleaned, and painted the valve cover.
Removed the little platform the stock air filter box sits on.
Found out that the speedo surrounds are different between tilt, and non-tilt steering columns.
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Been a little too wet to do much of anything.
Starting to think headgasket on my coolant usage on my BP. Every time the car is driven now, and I pop the hood, I can see where oil is leaking between the head and engine block.
Plus I did see some pretty sizable puffs of white smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust manifold (Running open manifold at the moment)
and out from under the hood.
Still haven't given it a compression test like I meant to.
EDIT: Or! like I just found on google, could be coolant leaking out of the headgasket onto old oil residue on the engine, making it look like an oil leak.
Will have to clean it, drive it a bit and verify.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 10-21-2016, 12:12 PM.
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If captive (captured...) rotor means are the rotors bolted to the hub flange - yep, they sure are.
Okay - the mystery is solved. I finally spotted some writing on one of them that said '91 Capri, and the bolt pattern is sure enough 4.5"Last edited by Greywolf; 10-19-2016, 06:41 PM.
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Originally posted by FestYboyGreywolf there is a big difference between aspire and Capri brakes: first off is the bolt pattern, Capri is 4x114.3 and aspire is 4x100, second is Capri rotors are captured like Festivas, third is XR2 rotors are larger than aspire auto rotors in both meaningful dimensions.
(?) Is 4 by 114.3 also known as four on four and a half?
Dammit! My camera picked a hella time to crap out
TO ERIC: It sounds like you need to solder on some length to those wires before they become useless.Last edited by Greywolf; 10-18-2016, 09:26 PM.
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Greywolf there is a big difference between aspire and Capri brakes: first off is the bolt pattern, Capri is 4x114.3 and aspire is 4x100, second is Capri rotors are captured like Festivas, third is XR2 rotors are larger than aspire auto rotors in both meaningful dimensions.
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Yesterday.. tags. Today put a cheap radio in. It's had 5 not much of a harness left!
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What I got done today was to clear out the shop a lot more, and I think I have found either a matched set of Aspire front steering knuckles and rotors, or they are from a Capri XR2. I noticed the caliper mounting bolts were 4 3/4" apart, vice the Festiva bolts are 4"
THIS BIT is for "fezzy":
One old hotrodders trick is to take the stock cam to a machine shop and have them REDUCE THE BASE CIRCLE on the cam lobes - this results in more valve lift, and since we can't really make the cam lobes taller, the alternative is to make the round part smaller and adjust the slack - or hunt down a trick cam for the car. You should shop about for a camshaft specialty house near you
* If you DO THAT, keep a sharp eye on your piston top clearances
There are also aftermarket ECU's available that can be programmed either when you order them, or if you've got a laptop and the right software and cables. There's also specialty shops that do tuning and re-programming.
You can re-plumb the entire exhaust so it has an easier time breathing. If you can find, rob, and fit a much larger catalytic convertor from a wrecking yard, it will open things up a LOT.
You could always gut it out, but that would be illegal and thus is not highly recommended
One thing you can do without spending much is wait for the car to get stone cold, and do a good valve adjustment on it (I'm pretty sure the cam followers have an adjustment if it's a SOHC, they do on the 1.3l or B3 engines, on the DOHC engines valve adjustment is done with shims.
You can look into having larger diameter valves and seats put into a custom built head for it.
I imagine it wouldn't take much to kit it over to a DOHC 4-valve per cylinder head, and then you couldn't be accused of pulling a complete engine swap.
I dunno if down under allows you to do a B6T engine swap without taking it to an engineer to get their approval.
***My camera has an issue with it's USB cable, so I cannot upload anymore pics or vids until the new cable arrives.
Maybe longer than that if it turns out to be the camera itself :sad:
~Sometimes life gets crummy. Good job then if you know how to make a crumb cake! :cake:Last edited by Greywolf; 10-17-2016, 06:27 PM.
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