What have you done to your Festiva today!?

[TorqueEffect]

Nothing, it's sitting at home until I can get an Alternator for it.

But been doing some research into engine swap potential for 96-97 OBD2 Aspires.
And I think I have found a breakthrough for BP swaps.

Now I haven't looked at the wiring schematics to compare them if they are electrically compatible, but I have found that 1996 OBD2 Miatas ECU uses the exact some connectors as the OBD2 Aspires.

If the wiring doesn't match up, it's just a case of swapping the wires around in the connector.

Then comes figuring out the sensors......

[Dragonhealer]

^ Of course that is in southern Arizona, lots of places with snow/skiing etc if you want.
Down here racing year round is fun too!

[Dragonhealer]

Love to try them!
Nobody goes out without at least SPF 30 on, but lots o folks like it out here. Rubber, upholstery, and paint are a challenge if you don't have a garage, but no rust.......ever.....

[F3BZ]

about $50 total with 20 clips before shipping. if i can get these off with no damage they're yours cheap. jeez. arizona was one of my retirement picks. is my old rubbery skin going to bake off?

[Dragonhealer]

^ Every set on every car we have out here looks like $h1t, most of the rubber coating baked and fell off. How cheap are they? 'Caus they look way better than our junk.....

[F3BZ]

this is a classic case of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". all i wanted to do was clean the water scale from under the moldings and touch up the gasket gutter. just figuring out how to get the molding off was a challenge. after a thorough refresh and everything looking like new i figured to snap on a set of new moldings from 4G since they are ridiculous cheap. i woulda just repainted the old molds but the rubberized coating had some nicks and a few dings in the metal not easily removed. the new 4G Kia molds looked good, nice satin finish, but then i noticed the built up rubber on the ends that are probably for paint protection or anti squeak i guess were kinda blob like and lumpy compared to the old ford ones. this could cause a fitment problem making the piece too tight in the channel. also the 5 pieces interlock with one another where a male end will slide into a pocket and be hooked by that piece and some of this excess rubber flash had to be trimmed off for this to happen.
things went bad from the start when i put the 2 top molds on. the fit was so tight that the lip of the mold actually lifts a heavy 8th inch off the windshield. i can imagine this possibly causing noise at high speed plus looking like crap. the 2 side pieces were the real horror show though. for some reason they wouldn't lay flat at the bottom. totally unacceptable. after i took one of the side molds back off i compared it with the old ford one and found out that there is a noticeable difference in the curvature between the 2. the 4G kia mold is curved a little more which might explain the bad fit. i did have to force it a little onto the last 2 clips and i guess the tension it is under makes it want to lift. i'll be removing this all soon and replace with the correct ford pieces. waste of time & money. i featured these moldings in the 4 GREEN GRAB BAG post and hope nobody bought them.

[TorqueEffect]

I think my alternator is about to completely kick the bucket.

Got in last night, started it up and no charge light, flick on the headlights and the charge light comes on, flick the lights off, the charge light goes out. I drive it home, charge light stays on the whole journey. Unlike a month or two ago when it went out when driving it home, and hasn't happened again until last night.

https://youtu.be/NsI_uCMLIjM

Here is a video after I got it home. While it's not in the video, the charge light also came on when the brake lights come on too.

[firebush357]

We worked on my brothers car the other day. Put a Lug Stud conversion kit on and a 5mm spacer for the back Wheels just to make sure there is plenty of clearance with his new wheels. We also wired up the Blinkers to work on the Marker lights instead of in the bumper. His Blinkers were absolute crap and rusted into pieces and we plan on putting some LED driving lights on the front bumper anyway. Just needs a Tag and insurance and it should be ready to go real soon.

[TorqueEffect]

TorqueEffect, I ran them again and they worked, so I don't know what was up. Both times it was the same "copy and paste" from your list, so.....?? And I know what you mean about things getting cut from your order, but I've had the cut items go through fine on the next order.

Yeah, still waiting for them to ship. Been nearly 48 hours during work days and I still haven't seen the order status change from *Paid* yet. Maybe I miss read the page it showed me right after the order went through, but I could have sworn they were supposed to receive the order within' 24 hours, and the next 1-3 days would be preparing to ship it. Maybe I am just impatient. lol
I know it can take weeks to ship from Korea, but still, it just feels like everyday they don't ship it is another day I will have to wait.

[jawja jim]

TorqueEffect, I ran them again and they worked, so I don't know what was up. Both times it was the same "copy and paste" from your list, so.....?? And I know what you mean about things getting cut from your order, but I've had the cut items go through fine on the next order.

[litesong]

Young fellow came by today & said he was interested in getting my down manual '88 carb Festiva back running. I said yeah, I'd be v. interested. Gotta get new tires, battery, whatever else. Gonna change out the 4sp. for a 5speed. Maybe some new wheels (13's?) that look good. Any advice on that front? With the 5speed, might stay with the 12inchers for the 55mpg & longer legs. Any good looking 12 inch wheels around. Exterior needs some nice paint (metallic, sweet red, or striking green, maybe 2 tone- blue/copper?).... any other ideas? HD radio-gotta have. I'm an old guy, so need a CD player....what kind of speakers? Take the catalytic converter off, if we can still have a clean burning car. Don't know how much money I'll have to put in it. We'll see.

[TorqueEffect]

I ran a couple of those numbers on Fourgreen and they didn't come up. You may have gotten the last ones.

Hmm, weird. Which ones specifically?

I went back through and they all load up their respective pages, but I didn't specifically use the part # search.

Heck, knowing from others experience I might not get some of the things I ordered.
Just waiting for them to ship it, that's usually when people receive the email about them not having an item in stock, but they will refund your money for the items they can't ship.

[jawja jim]

I ran a couple of those numbers on Fourgreen and they didn't come up. You may have gotten the last ones.

[TorqueEffect]

Ordered a bunch of stuff from FourGreen, and a couple things off eBay.

On ebay I ordered 3ft (Shortest I could find) of 3/4" silicon vacuum hose for the IAC. The guy who sold me the BP swap was using a heater hose for some reason, and it just immediately collapses under vacuum choking the engine at idle. Also an aftermarket 5-speed metal shift knob, and a 2.5" shifter extender to bring the civic shortshifter back up to the Festiva's stock height.

Now for the stuff I ordered from FourGreen.

1 KK1426431009 CONSOLE ASSEMBLY-FRONT - $24.43 (Full Shifter Console)
2 K817369470B89 HANDLE-ASSIST - $2.51 each (Oh s***! handles)
1 KK1351752009 KNOB - $3.81 (LXs only had these with the full consoles)
1 MDA0141711 PAD-ACCELERATOR PEDAL - $0.57 (Might not fit, looks right but listed under a different Hyundai/Kia)
1 KKY0167360 LINK ASSEMBLY-WIPER, FRONT - $21.19 (Wiper Transmission)
2 KKY0151274 LENS - $0.76 each (License Plate Light Lens)
2 KKY0143028A PAD-PEDAL - $1.14 each (Clutch/Brake)
1 KKY0155210B00 PANEL ASSEMBLY-CONTROL - $13.10 (Radio Bezel)
1 MD00156651A STAY-BONNET - $2.17 (Hood Prop)
2 KKY0166540 SWITCH ASSEMBLY-DOOR - $2.93 each (Dome light door switches)
1 KK15069220 MIRROR ASSEMBLY-REAR VIEW INSIDE - $10.86
2 KKY026842104 VESSEL-IN., LOCK - $0.38 each (Plastic things for the lock rod hole at the top of the door.)
1 KKA0151440 LAMP-CARGO ROOM - $6.57
1 MB09367366A CAP-SEALING - $0.38 (Rear wiper seal)
2 KKY0172310 LOCK-QUARTER WINDOW - $2.32 each
1 KK15042440A LOCK ASSEMBLY - $4.26 (Fuel door lock)
1 KDA0142450 PLATE ASSEMBLY-LOCK - $1.52 (Fuel door latch)
10 KKY0150609A CLIP - $0.38 (Windshield trim clips)
1 KK19067540 SWITCH ASSEMBLY-REAR WIPER & WASHER - $8.00
1 MD0015617X BOLT-JACK SET - $0.95 (I think this is the jack retainer bolt)
1 KKY0264351 BRACKET-FRONT CONSOLE, A - $0.50 (For the full shifter console)
1 KKY0264361 BRACKET-FRONT CONSOLE, B - $0.53
1 KKY0111408A PLATE - $1.14 (a/c crank pulley spacer)
1 KBJ0411403 PULLEY-CRANKSHAFT - $13.43 (Large nose a/c pulley)
2 MD00162873 RUBBER-STOPPER - $1.52 each (Rubber Hatch Stoppers)
1 KK13651766 EMBLEM- GTX - $1.90
1 MDA0176641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57
1 KK15676641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57
1 KKY0276641 COVER-WIPER ARM - $0.57

Sub Total: $143.94
Shipping: $51.66
Total: $195.60

Will post pics of stuff not pictured in the Fourgreen grab bag thread once I receive them.

[TorqueEffect]

Un-kinked the fuel return hose, I think this was the cause of my excessive fuel consumption.

BP is definitely feeling more peppy, but now it stumbles on acceleration from first gear when cold, quite possibly this is because the fuel pressure solenoid isn't hooked up. Which I hear is to close off or minimize fuel flow to the return fuel line when the engine is cold. The BP guide says there is a light brown plug underneath the wiper motor for the PRC, but I see no such plug.