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  • Oil change and installed the driver's side hub I rebuilt a while ago. Heading up to Edmonton for the day tomorrow.
    Ian
    Calgary AB, Canada
    93 L B6T: June 2016 FOTM
    59 Austin Healey "Bugeye" Sprite

    "It's infinitely better to fail with courage than to sit idle with fear...." Chip Gaines (pg 167 of Capital Gaines, Smart Things I Learned Doing Stupid Stuff)

    Link to the "Road Trip Starting Points" page of my Econobox Café blog

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    • Seen the Japanese grilles.. Think it would look smashing on this beast

      sent from the depths of hell.
      Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
      Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)

      Avg Economy:
      Highway - 7.32L/100km
      City - yet to be determined.

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      • Seat bracket welding is now complete.
        -Bryant

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        • I didn't like the stock (horrendously worn out leather) shift knob on the Sportage. So I stripped the leather and plastic off, drilled and tapped the top for a 1/2" bit of ready-rod and pulled this put of the bottom drawer of my box:

          No plans to actually use the air switches (air locker is not an option unless I swap to Toyota diffs or something), though a guy I work with suggested I plug the output lines, set up an OBA system and run air to it just to get the 'psst pwhoo' when you hit them.

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          • Replaced the wiper blades. Just picked up the cheapest Trico blades for about $4.50 a piece. I hope they fit the Sentra wiper arms I am getting sometime soon, because I decided against my better judgement to pick up 2" larger wiper blades, and surprisingly the 20" ones fit fine as long as you don't have the wipers sitting at the very BOTTOM, of the windshield because then the passenger side one hands off about half an inch onto the plastic molding.

            Yeah I had Auto Zone duralast flex blades on there before, but they were pretty poor. Which is odd because they work perfectly, with clean wipes every time on my parent's Fusion. I think it comes down to size, the shorter the flex blades are, the less effective they are.

            I really wish it would get warm, because I want to get in there and clean up all the electrical grounds. I am sure that is why I have a weak electrical system. Hell today I was checking my indicators, so I flipped on the hazards, (my Headlights were on as well) and ever time the indicators blinked I could hear the engine idle bouncing, so this combined with slowing blower motor when headlights are switched on, briefly dimming headlights when blower motor is kicked on full blast, and everything dimming when the electric cooling fan kicks on, I think it all points to dirty electrical grounds.

            Is there anyway to replace the positive battery cable? Mine is a bit frayed where the terminal connector is. I have also thought of replacing the Negative cable that attaches to the top of the transmission.
            1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
            2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
            1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

            Comment


            • Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post

              Yeah I had Auto Zone duralast flex blades on there before, but they were pretty poor. Which is odd because they work perfectly, with clean wipes every time on my parent's Fusion. I think it comes down to size, the shorter the flex blades are, the less effective they are.
              Windshield curvature has a lot to do with it too.

              I really wish it would get warm, because I want to get in there and clean up all the electrical grounds. I am sure that is why I have a weak electrical system. Hell today I was checking my indicators, so I flipped on the hazards, (my Headlights were on as well) and ever time the indicators blinked I could hear the engine idle bouncing, so this combined with slowing blower motor when headlights are switched on, briefly dimming headlights when blower motor is kicked on full blast, and everything dimming when the electric cooling fan kicks on, I think it all points to dirty electrical grounds.

              Is there anyway to replace the positive battery cable? Mine is a bit frayed where the terminal connector is. I have also thought of replacing the Negative cable that attaches to the top of the transmission.
              I think you should load test your alternator and battery too. And most McParts stores have ready-made battery cables, or you can get a length of cable, a copper lug and a terminal and make your own. I've done both. Often the DIY route is easier because the ready made cables are seldom the right length and usually don't like to bend the right way when they've been coiled up in a blister pack for ages.
              Last edited by Tommychu; 01-24-2014, 12:12 AM.

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              • Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
                Replaced the wiper blades. Just picked up the cheapest Trico blades for about $4.50 a piece. I hope they fit the Sentra wiper arms I am getting sometime soon, because I decided against my better judgement to pick up 2" larger wiper blades, and surprisingly the 20" ones fit fine as long as you don't have the wipers sitting at the very BOTTOM, of the windshield because then the passenger side one hands off about half an inch onto the plastic molding.

                Yeah I had Auto Zone duralast flex blades on there before, but they were pretty poor. Which is odd because they work perfectly, with clean wipes every time on my parent's Fusion. I think it comes down to size, the shorter the flex blades are, the less effective they are
                Looked at Yahoo Japan? They have coloured wiper blades for the festiva. Other goodies are to be had too.

                One thing I saw was a brand new A/c setup..

                sent from the depths of hell.
                Last edited by jawbraeka; 01-24-2014, 12:14 AM.
                Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
                Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)

                Avg Economy:
                Highway - 7.32L/100km
                City - yet to be determined.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Tommychu View Post
                  Windshield curvature has a lot to do with it too.



                  I think you should load test your alternator and battery too. And most McParts stores have ready-made battery cables, or you can get a length of cable, a copper lug and a terminal and make your own. I've done both. Often the DIY route is easier because the ready made cables are seldom the right length and usually don't like to bend the right way when they've been coiled up in a blister pack for ages.

                  I have load tested the alternator using the portable charging system tester from autozone (Where I work) it passes all tests, but the engine bogs down heavily when the test starts, but quickly jumps back up to normal idle.

                  Now I have not removed the alternator yet and tested it on their bench tester, which I am sure looks for the right amperage the alt is supposed to be putting out.
                  1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                  2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                  1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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                  • Foot slipped off the clutch, jerked the engine hard enough to finish breaking the exhaust. Which was all new 3 years ago. Factory welds are rusting from the outside in.

                    So, I had to take a cordless sawzall and chop the 2/3rd that fell off, into halves so I could get it out around the axle to make it driveable.

                    Guess once again I'll enjoy an open throat manifold 80miles a day until garage is free.

                    But I'll be honest, you can with zero guess tell she hits on all 4 perfect every time. Proud of my coffee can plugs and mix matched wires and 400k mile dizzy cap.

                    Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro
                    Last edited by jason_; 01-24-2014, 04:00 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Tommychu View Post
                      ready made cables are seldom the right length and usually don't like to bend the right way when they've been coiled up in a blister pack for ages.
                      If you buy a set of (blue) genuine AC Delco cables, you will find that they are very long, very flexible and very thick, with heavy duty clamps. They have never failed me under any circumstances.
                      Last edited by bravekozak; 01-24-2014, 06:56 PM.

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                      • Fueled up. 30MPG. bleh
                        1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                        2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                        1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

                        Comment


                        • On the way to grab the truck to push snow, car was biting serious drifts, now my charge light is really bright when idling, dimly lit when revved in operating range.

                          Think I smoked the windings? It turns and doesn't slip.

                          Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 Pro

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                          • Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
                            Fueled up. 30MPG. bleh
                            Checked for sticking brakes recently? The '89 calipers were rusted pretty good a few days ago. Been getting 31MPG when I know it should be better.
                            White '92 GL 5-speed BP, G series, Aspire/Rio swapped, "Nancy"
                            White '89 LX 5-speed, Aspire swapped, Weber carb
                            1988 LX 5-speed
                            ​​​1993 L 5-speed B8, E series, Aspire/Rio swapped

                            Gone:

                            1986 Chevrolet Sprint 1990 L Plus Auto

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                            • Stuck the plate tabs on our 3 Festivas and put the registration and insurance cards in the glove boxes
                              -Zack
                              Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

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                              • Could be the rear brakes, but with the ebrake off, and out of gear it still rolls on the very slightest of uneven ground, so I doubt it is a brake problem.

                                I do need to adjust the timing since doing the timing belt when I had the water pump changed probably has thrown it off.

                                I am also trying Shell gas now to see if there is any improvement over Speedway gas. (Local chain owned by Marathon now)
                                Last edited by TorqueEffect; 01-25-2014, 03:29 PM.
                                1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
                                2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
                                1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28

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