I understand what you are saying. But I kinda live in the middle of Ohio, hundreds of miles away from the nearest beach.
Oh, sorry. Wasn't aware dnr prohibits riding on state land/trails in Ohio. I do all my playing around on desginated orv routes. I hate beach sand, that's a paddle tire thing for best results.
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Oh, sorry. Wasn't aware dnr prohibits riding on state land/trails in Ohio. I do all my playing around on desginated orv routes. I hate beach sand, that's a paddle tire thing for best results.
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My first motorized bike ride was on pavement. It was a DIY thing, but would do 35mph and that was just sprocket limited. Anyway, the first time I rode it the rear sprocket locked up and thus the rear wheel locked up, and I was going downhill, on wet pavement. And when that happens, 35 is fast enough.
Tail came out and turned very sideways. Maybe it helped that I had always been in the dirt before that on pedal bikes. Maybe it depends on the person too, and the fact it was such a light weight thing. IDK. I didn't lay it down. Slid all the way down the hill sideways straightened it out and stopped.
So practice in the dirt first at least? Maybe it'll help.
Yeah, I have ridden mountain bikes in the past quite allot before I was able to drive. Rode both on, and off pavement, for whatever that is worth for road bikes.
I know I am probably going to have a few spills, but that is why you wear protective gear, and ride a cheap used sport bike.
1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
Baby on the way, needed something more family appropriate.
And if I was to make a car payment, no matter the cost, I wanted the same milage.
2009 Jetta sportwagen, tdi 6sp manual. 46mpg rolling on 4400#.
Scored it for $8200, put down 3500, financed the rest, 4 year , $140/month.
1 check is almost a year of payment. Heh.
I do have everything yet, 5 cars, 4 or 5 engines, few roller heads, 4 gearboxes, ignition and drive train, wheels, etc etc , that Frankenstein head mill job, that still runs strong to this day, and lot of extra stuff. Blah blah.
When I get a inventieoru of things I'll get a feeler posted.
Don't worry fellow aspire and festvia'ers I won't let the treasures get pancaked.
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Replaced the front strut assemblies on Bessie (330,000 Plus miles) with ones that look like new.
They came from a low miles Festiva that I found at LKQ last year.
Sits slightly higher in the front now and there is a noticeable difference in the ride and handling.
Also replaced the brake line clips with stainless steel ones that I got from bravekozak last year.
(I'm in the South so the old ones were only slightly rusted.)
R.I.P.
Blue 1972 Chevelle SS-468 C.I.D. B'nM TH400-4:56 posi-Black racing stripes-Black vinyl top-Black int.
Black on black 1976 Camaro LT-350 4 bolt main .060 over
Silver 1988 Festiva L
Oil change. Also noticed that autozone started carrying drain plugs with magnets, that or I just noticed that they did carry them. lol
Bought one for $4
Also, was curious, and decided to flip through the 1993 Festiva Owner's manual I snagged from the glovebox of a junkyard car a while back. I noticed that they actually recommend oil changes every 7,500 miles, or every 6 months, and that they only recommend the 3k intervals if you haul heavy loads, idle allot, stop in go in traffic on hot days, and do less than 10 miles a day in below freezing temps. Granted this is for the B3, while I have a B6, but since they are almost identical engines being a first gen B6, I figure the same would apply.
1991 Ford Festiva BP (Full Aspire/Rio Swap) (337k Miles) (Around 95k Engine)
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport 2.2L DOHC Ecotec (Threw a Rod)
1998 Chevy Monte Carlo LS 3.1 V6 (225k miles) Best MPG = 28
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