Dr Dan's B6 build

[zoe60]

Yeah, it looks like it would be a little too close. Too bad you had to go back and do all that extra work but it's better to get it done now. I'll have to take mine back apart someday.

[drddan]

Hmmmm...? Weird. It was there yesterday, it was not this morning.

I did try a bolt too. The manifold was still almost touching it. Like maybe you could get a piece of paper between them. :p
Too close...hacksaw time.

[freshtiva]

The pic I sent was yours, the same one that is missing from your prior post. It must be a problem with your image host.

[zoe60]

I think I may have broken that bolt trying to install the bracket that clamps to the downpipe. I gave up on the bracket for sure. I started out with the Festy Manifold and put the Mazda one in later. I'll fix it someday, you got me thinking about it.

[zoe60]

I went and looked at mine. I don't remember doing it but I left the stud out. My tube is only bolted to the water pump. Pretty cheesy, I know. Looks like sawing off the flange like you said is the answer. Maybe I'll do it someday. Works fine like it is.

[drddan]

Wonder what's different? Mine bolted right on. Is your manifold from a 323?

:dontknow:

Yes. 1989 323

[zoe60]

Wonder what's different? Mine bolted right on. Is your manifold from a 323?

[drddan]

What happened to the pics?

Not getting Markus' pic, and the one of the manifold/bolt is gone too?

Anywho...done cut off the flange, painted it where I cut it, and am oven bake curing it right now.

The manlfold fit in a spare convection oven I have, so I am baking it outside!

The last baking session just about choked me out of the house! :eeeeeek:

[freshtiva]

Cant you just use a bolt instead of a the nut on a stud to avoid hitting your flange ?

[eurotiva]

They are metric

[zoom zoom]

aaw, all the wrong bolts man.. those are for asian vehicles, these are japanese, I've been informed there IS in fact a difference.

[drddan]

I had a bit of a set back. The exhaust manifold is hitting the bolt that holds the coolant tube that runs under the manifold.


By drddan at 2012-06-09

The flange is way bigger than the festy one, I will need to get out the hacksaw, and saw off that unneeded flange, ruining my paint job on the manifold, I will now have to touch it up and re-bake it the oven to cure it.


I went out and got all these the other day.


By drddan at 2012-06-09

[Christ]

I get alot of chinky noises under load right now, I've got to check/adjust my timing again since I changed the coil. (oops, lazy me). It's not terrible, just noise.

I also have a ticking that sounds a lot like light rod knock (ugh), but it could just be a faulty exhaust gasket as well. It seems to get louder under load than idling, indicating a bad gasket seal allowing exhaust pressure to blow out.

Doesn't make a difference, really, this chassis is probably going to become the diesel swap candidate anyway. (Man, I gotta get back on that.)

[zoe60]

What happens under heavy load? Many of us drive on hills, tow things, load up the back, etc... heavier load and high advance, especially at low engine speeds, can cause a pretty serious detonation issue.

I've never heard it knock since I hooked it up that way. I hope it is OK. I have an aftermarket ignition system so grounding the little plug when checking timing doesn't make any difference on my car. I run my base timing at about 12 degrees advanced. I am happier with the way it runs now than I ever have been. Still cold natured first thing in the morning. not satisfied with the Weber fast idle. Choke works fine, but fast idle drops off right away. I have a switch hooked up to my air conditioner fast idle solenoid that helps a lot in the morning. I've got those two idle up solenoids completely figured out now. Can tell you anything about them.

[drddan]

Dont advance it so far, that it detonates!
You want that point in the timing, right before detonation. Advance til it detonates, then back off a degree or two. You can also use higher octane gas to increase the detonation point.