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What have you done to your Festiva today!?

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  • sketchman
    replied
    I'd go B8 if I felt the need, but for now the B3 will just get some help. Simple things. So far I'm only getting 38mpg, but it's cold here. I was getting 48 with 12s on my other one, so we'll see what happens.

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  • kumalaba
    replied
    slows ok when your getting 45mpg hwyof course you can go bp if you have the need for speed.
    Last edited by kumalaba; 02-12-2014, 08:34 AM.

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  • sketchman
    replied
    Originally posted by Twistiva View Post
    Other than the hood, that body's in pretty nice looking shape! Good luck on your continued rebuild/restore! :thumbs_up:
    Yep. It's in great shape. 2 places of rust on the whole thing, and they're tiny. Even the lower rear strut bolts are mint. It's unbelievable for a 200k+ mile car. It's just slow, 4xstupid, and needs painted. All and more will be fixed.
    Last edited by sketchman; 02-12-2014, 06:01 AM.

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  • Twistiva
    replied
    Recently: bought a new 5-spd shift knob, a new (non-marked) shift knob, a parking brake handle cover and door handles.

    P.S. - Super cold weather stinks.
    Last edited by Twistiva; 02-12-2014, 12:05 AM.

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  • Twistiva
    replied
    Originally posted by sketchman View Post
    And washed it. Doused the whole thing top and bottom with car wash wax too. Might not do much but can't hurt.


    The hood says "Turbo" in rattle can flat black and Euro (I assume he did it) put a snail decal on the hatch glass. Foreshadowing methinks.
    Other than the hood, that body's in pretty nice looking shape! Good luck on your continued rebuild/restore! :thumbs_up:

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  • WTFestiva
    replied
    We are working on getting the rally car all set up. Currently working on the steering issues since we've run the front end into different tree type objects a few times now. I think we have it licked now with this last set of things we did. Today we got it aligned professionally with some kind of crazy system I'd never heard of, then we took it home, fixed up the valve cover, had a small oil leak coming out of some stripped cover bolts we had in it, hooked up the E-brake cable finally, found the drivers side rear hub was a bit loose so we tightened that and re-packed the rear bearings, secured the brake lines to the front, apparently we had them wrapped around the front struts kind of weird. We re-painted our front grill and put it back on with just some flat white rattle cans, swapped out the passenger side marker light, and some cleaning. Now we have to work on getting the Equis guages to work, put in the heater blower so we can have some defrost action going on, figure out the wiper washer reservoir issue.

    I feel a hell of a lot better this year for the 100 acre, though our steering is slightly pulling to the left due to our frame being slightly bent, I think she'll pull some pretty good times.

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  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Took it out on the highway, about found out my ball-joints are not causing the vibration. It was the most common reason. Tires.

    I put two of my stock steelies with tires that had the most tread on the front about a week ago, because the 13's were seriously worn.
    Well I took it up to 65, which was the speed that had the worst vibration when I had the worn 13" ones on, and absolutely nothing, not even the slightest vibration.

    Also I didn't know a small bend on the lip of the rim would throw it off balance, so it looks like I need to find a another Metro rim, or buy some new rims.
    Last edited by TorqueEffect; 02-11-2014, 09:07 PM.

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  • Flyin4stroke
    replied
    Big pimpin'! Awesome! Ol blue!

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  • sketchman
    replied
    And washed it. Doused the whole thing top and bottom with car wash wax too. Might not do much but can't hurt.


    The hood says "Turbo" in rattle can flat black and Euro (I assume he did it) put a snail decal on the hatch glass. Foreshadowing methinks.

    Leave a comment:


  • dalebwilson
    replied
    -Removed the original head and cleaned thoroughly with purple power, replaced 2 burnt exhaust valves, lapped all valves, replaced hard crusty valve stem seals, camshaft seal and reassembled.

    -Soaked the piston rings for a week. Kept tops of pistons covered with sea foam and MMO while alternating both and rocking the pistons up and down.

    -Replaced front crankshaft seal, timing belt and tensioner.

    -Removed valve cover tunnel cover and cleaned thoroughly. Replaced PCV valve.

    -Replaced head gasket, installed refurbished head, replaced all coolant hoses, refilled with antifreeze, clean engine oil, one quart of Rislone and new filter.

    Leave a comment:


  • sketchman
    replied
    Ordered these and these for Blue.

    For those considering racing steelies, the Circle Racing ones from Summit are available in 4x100 and a 6" width at 12.5lbs and use normal 60 seat lugs instead of the specialty 45s that others use. Also come in a more comfortable backspace/offset (if you want a 6" wheel) than Bassett's do and come out the same price after you add in shipping from Bassett.

    Now hopefully somebody in this stuck-in-the-past coal town can balance lug centric wheels.

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  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Ordered some new Dorman lower control arms from Rockauto. My passenger side one had a bit of play in it.

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  • navdoc101
    replied
    Installed my New Climair Vent visors, Thanks to fordFestiva

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  • TorqueEffect
    replied
    Did a compression test today. Forgot to do WOT when testing the first 3 cylinders. lol but after retesting all of em, I get 150s acrossed the board, 150 being the lowest, and 158 being the highest.

    So the engine has good compression.

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  • bravekozak
    replied
    I have no idea which screw to adjust on an EFI. I do know the highest vacuum will give you the highest efficiency and the most power. I use my vacuum gauge to tune under the hood. It's easy to watch as you fine tune. I don't have a vacuum gauge in my car. Once it's tuned, there isn't much reason to look at it very much.
    Last edited by bravekozak; 02-04-2014, 09:20 PM.

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