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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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I have no idea which screw to adjust on an EFI. I do know the highest vacuum will give you the highest efficiency and the most power. I use my vacuum gauge to tune under the hood. It's easy to watch as you fine tune. I don't have a vacuum gauge in my car. Once it's tuned, there isn't much reason to look at it very much.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-04-2014, 09:20 PM.
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Originally posted by bravekozak View PostYou are supposed to power tune your car for the highest possible vacuum reading at idle. Start tuning. Set your timing, then adjust your fuel ratio first and see what happens. As long as the vacuum increases, then you are good. If it starts to go down, then stop.
Also I filled up the tank today. With about just under half the tank going to highway driving, I averaged 35.5 MPG.
I also grabbed a compression tester from work and will be doing that tomorrow since I have never tested this engine yet.
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You are supposed to power tune your car for the highest possible vacuum reading at idle. Start tuning. Set your timing, then adjust your fuel ratio first and see what happens. As long as the vacuum increases, then you are good. If it starts to go down, then stop.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-04-2014, 08:45 PM.
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I now noticed something else. During the first 5 min of driving after a cold start, there is no jumpy needle at all, but still low readings on idle, about 12 inches of vacuum. Could it be timing? I still haven't timed the engine since changing the water pump and timing belt.
Sent from my SPH-M950 using Tapatalk
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I do have a thick walled, non-collapsable hose, it came with the gauge.
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You need thick-walled, non-collapsable hose that is designed for vacuum. Ferrules would be required for a good connection.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-04-2014, 09:12 AM.
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Originally posted by getnpsi View PostTorque...how did you route your air line? i messed mine up and it just ran lower than normal going up and down some as the nylon kinked. its an autometer, it didnt do what yours does at all.
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Torque...how did you route your air line? i messed mine up and it just ran lower than normal going up and down some as the nylon kinked. its an autometer, it didnt do what yours does at all.
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Almost got the engine tranny pulled. gettin close to mocking up some mounts.
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
I was thinking along the lines of one of these, which wouldn't be bad to calibrate yours...
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View Post
sent from the depths of hell.
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That gauge gave me a headache after watching it for about twenty seconds. I have never before seen a needle jump so fast that much in vacuum.Last edited by bravekozak; 02-03-2014, 06:09 PM.
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Originally posted by TorqueEffect View PostI got it to work. But I have no idea if it is working properly, or if my engine is showing some bad signs. Because it idles at about 8-10 inches of vacuum (Supposed to be around 14), but it does fall normally on throttle blip, but as soon as there is any load on the engine, like acceleration, the needle vibrates violently, with about 2k rpms it vibrates violently between 15, and 0 inches of vacuum. I have a video of it, will upload it shortly.
sent from the depths of hell.Last edited by jawbraeka; 02-03-2014, 04:46 PM.
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Originally posted by scitzz View PostI think I paid 20 for a decent one from advance auto 3 or 4 years ago. Analog, hasn't failed me.
I got it to work. But I have no idea if it is working properly, or if my engine is showing some bad signs. Because it idles at about 8-10 inches of vacuum (Supposed to be around 14), but it does fall normally on throttle blip, but as soon as there is any load on the engine, like acceleration, the needle vibrates violently, with about 2k rpms it vibrates violently between 15, and 0 inches of vacuum. I have a video of it, will upload it shortly.Last edited by TorqueEffect; 02-03-2014, 04:16 PM.
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