Top end cleaning..If Seafoam is your thing use it to slowly kill an idling
engine then leave it soaking for 20 minutes. With Seafoam you might
repeat the process a couple times. You can lightly throttle the engine
as its dying to prolong the die and it will spread the cleaner out a little.
Drive it to blow the carbon out. Having some Seafoam in the oil at this
point wouldn't hurt, just make sure your oil is still good enough to support
a quick test drive before you change it. Some of the cleaning will go
downstairs, plan on the oil change.
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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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This is a sticky topic.
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Compression tested my vehicles.
Festiva scored 75-90-90-75. I poured some oil in cylinder 4 and it shot up over 200PSI.
I'm guessing worn or stuck piston rings? My compression was fairly normal at the beginning of summer last year.
My truck did 60-80 PSI and went to 150 on the wet test. That explains why the thing seems to be so slow and gutless.
I was pondering some Seafoam in the crankcase. I'm due for an oil change anyway.
What do y'all recommend as a last effort to unstick piston rings?
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Originally posted by Darlo View PostWhat is the point of changing the odo?
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Originally posted by kumalaba View Postyea slayer your ride is killer!
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Called FMS and ordered a pair (yes two :headbang: ) of B3 camshafts
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I can do a short shifter sticky if ya want. There already is one but here's what it consists of.
1. Remove shift knob.
2. Remove shift boot
3. Remove spring retainer.
4. Remove plastic bushing.
5. Remove bolt from shifter and linkage.
6. Remove shifter from car.
7. Install new shifter.
8. Install old bushing.
9. Cut spring 1 1/2 coils.
10. Install spring.
11. Install shift boot.
12. Install shifter
13. Use the advance dynamics shift linkage mod and drill out your new shifter to 1/2".
14. Drill your linkage to 1/2"
15. Go to ace hardware and get
-1-1/2" by 2.5" hardened shouldered bolt
-2-stainless 1/2" washers
-2-1/2" plastic washers
-1-1/2" nylock nut
16. Put some anti seize on bolt and install into shifter and linkage.
17. Enjoy!
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Babied Chuck a little more while running pizza last night, and hit 39.6mpg. It was nice (since my average has been about 33). But at the same time, I was kind hoping that babying it wasn't going to make that much of a difference, and I could keep beating on it all the time. But for an extra ~5mpg I guess I'll shift at 1500rpms instead of 2500 lol. Can't wait to get my G4A into green car, especially now that I have a tasty white face tach (thanks Danny, you da MAN!) in it to document the RPM drop of having a fourth gear and a lockup converter.
Originally posted by Ford Fester View PostCould we compile all of your pictures and maybe more to make a sticky for a battery relocation write up?
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Originally posted by htchbck View PostDid the HG fix your problem? And did you ever run comp tests?
But yeah, I've got all my power back!!
Originally posted by Oren09 View PostPut gas in it.
9.083 gallons
$3.29/gal
$29.96
Gas has gone back up a bit, but still under $30 to fill.
Today I replaced the bolts and the gasket for the header-to-downpipe joint... yay for a quiet car and no more carbon monoxide poisoning!!!
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started my advanced dynamics shifter linkage upgrade. Also debated whether I am going to go with a bp26 ecu and a b-code rx7 vaf with 330 cc stock gtx injectors or go fully megasquirt with no vaf. I have the megasquirt set-up already. BPT is fun but there is so many options.
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Originally posted by htchbck View PostTray installed... 100% bolt on with the factory airbox removed.
Battery in with nifty cambuckle tiedown. Still need to adjust it a little so the buckle is in the middle instead of to the side so it is easier to tighten, but it should work just fine.
Buckle stays hooked together, and the whole thing is attached to the tray on the passenger side, and has a 1" hook on the driver side.
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