Got one of the two power window motors mounted and wired, but in the process must have knocked the wiring for the power lock loose on the drivers door because it no longer functions.
Going to have to glue the gears since the outer gear adapter keeps slipping off the inner gear adapter.
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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Got a crankshaft that matches the 'mystery engine' I'll be using in the Festiva instead of the Utility engine I planned on using, so I started taking the measurements for it to fit the Festiva flywheel.
Info in the build thread.
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Whooopeee...........:blob3: My HLA shims came today, also my turbo muffler and high flow cat. Header should be here any time. I can start going back together with my B6 next week.
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I tightened the belt some today, since it has been squeeking on some start ups and rainy weather. So far so good!
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I gave my Festy a rest today and drove my Ranger. I have been driving the piss out my Festy lately.
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did this, lol. I bought these like, 3 or 4 years ago, and thought they were one of the many causalities from hurricane irene. After going through stuff in our basement at the new place, i found these in a box, all covered with mud and flood gunk.Last edited by ckiesman; 08-19-2013, 03:36 PM.
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I put a few seconds of acetylene torch on the spot. Aluminum/iron swells just enough to break it loose, that is, if it doesn't break down and fluff off from the heat.
Then I brush/blast.
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After cleaning your HLA's I can believe it! Hardest ones to clean EVER! LOL
I think the carbon in the combustion chambers and runners softens a little over time as an engine sits. Maybe it soaks up moisture in the air. I know a head that's sat for a long time seems easier to clean than one fresh off a running car. As for the carbon near the exit of the exhaust port, that stuff is always BAKED on no matter how long the head has sat. I have a mini sandblaster for that.
Hit the Dollar Store or one of the bargain outlets for brushes. There's a place down here called Mighty Dollar that has a wall full of nothing but cleaning brushes for a buck each and that place is my new best friend LOL. It helps to have an arsenal of different brushes on this stuff.Last edited by Zanzer; 08-19-2013, 08:11 AM.
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Originally posted by Zanzer View Post^^ Let the DPD sit for a minimum of 30 minutes and then use a brush to agitate it and break everything loose. The key to DPD is patients, if you just spray it on, brush it around, and rinse off it doesn't do much. If you wait 20-30 minutes before brushing, that's when the magic happens
For really nasty stuff it sometimes requires 2 treatments and you need to let the parts dry between applications so the water doesn't dilute the DPD or create a boundary layer. The only thing I've ever seen that requires more than 2 applications is REALLY BAD carbon deposits in exhaust runners.
I don't even hot tank parts anymore because I still had to use Dawn to get off stuff that the hot tank left on. I skip it now and go straight to the good stuff :mrgreen:
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^^ Let the DPD sit for a minimum of 30 minutes and then use a brush to agitate it and break everything loose. The key to DPD is patients, if you just spray it on, brush it around, and rinse off it doesn't do much. If you wait 20-30 minutes before brushing, that's when the magic happens
For really nasty stuff it sometimes requires 2 treatments and you need to let the parts dry between applications so the water doesn't dilute the DPD or create a boundary layer. The only thing I've ever seen that requires more than 2 applications is REALLY BAD carbon deposits in exhaust runners.
I don't even hot tank parts anymore because I still had to use Dawn to get off stuff that the hot tank left on. I skip it now and go straight to the good stuff :mrgreen:
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Picked up my hot cleaned parts from the machine shop and the hot wash didn't even get some of the stuff left on there by the Dawn Power Dissolver. Now if Matt will send my HLA shims and header, it can go back together.....I really want to drive it to Madness.
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Originally posted by jason_ View Post^^ and then on top of that, valve guides are SUPPOSED to run dry.
Hardened iron on cast iron, go figure that out...
A day or so and oil just past exhaust ports will burn and clean out. What you're seeing is whatever sitting in the manifold from old seal bypass id imagine
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Starting to get pretty frustrated with the BP swap right now, it's pretty fricken tight in the engine bay and we've only managed to get one mount attached at this point due to the 5th gear cover hanging up on the driver's framerail. Probably have to pull it all the way out to get enough room to swing a hammer in there.
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