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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Because the Protege BP is a small nose crank I didn't have to undo the Crank Bolt, yay. I got the pass side axle out (no clip because of int. shaft) I'll get the driver's side this weekend maybe... Trying to figure out best approach with limited tools...
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Trying to find the source of my battery drain.
Think I have traced it to the headlights, the .200amp draw drops to nothing when head fuse is pulled.
Now to figure out why.
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Originally posted by Tommychu View Posttried for 2 hours to get my driver's side axle out of the trans so I could split the case and see what kind of carnage is going on in there. Axle is still stuck.
Today I start tearing into Babystiva at lunchtime to see what all happened to her the other day. Then after work its time to work on Keith's car some more.
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Replaced the front crank seal in my daughter's Festiva and changed the oil in mine.
Sent from my SGH-I727R using Tapatalk 2
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Removed the blown tranny, brought my stylus bumper swap from 25 to 90% complete (would have been 100 but I overtightened the top so now it's pointing upward), and tried for 2 hours to get my driver's side axle out of the trans so I could split the case and see what kind of carnage is going on in there. Axle is still stuck.
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started getting festiva's ready for madness. Boy do I have a full plate for the next few weekends.
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I believe you will be able to loosen the cranks pulley with the transmission in first gear and the wheels on the ground or someone pressing on the brakes.
If not, you can take the first spark plug out and push a coil of nylon rope into the cylinder when it is at bottom. This will lock the piston as you turn the crank and effectively stop the crank from turning. I use this method when I have to remove the fly wheel.
Originally posted by kellen302 View PostReplaced the VC gasket on the BP, started pulling the injector harness out of it. How hard are Crank pulleys to unbolt, do I need to have the pulley braced against something? or will the compression of the engine hold it enough?
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Swapped the nose of a festiva ATX starter onto the rest of my G4A-HL starter. It worked! Got Babystiva running, but the trans seems stuck in first, even when I put it in park. Linkage is working, and when in park if you try to rev it will bog like you are holding down the brake trying to rev in first. Same thing in reverse. Put it in "D", "2", or "1" and it will drive around in first without ever trying to shift to any other gear. Looks like she'll be getting Green Car's ATX which means I can finally put the G4A in Green Car hopefully! All this after Keith's car is done though
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Replaced the VC gasket on the BP, started pulling the injector harness out of it. How hard are Crank pulleys to unbolt, do I need to have the pulley braced against something? or will the compression of the engine hold it enough?
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Opening up the valve covers to get busy on the gasket issue we had at the last race :/
Gonna replace the timing belt as well... get him race ready for october!
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received and installed the 1/2" spacer for my steering wheel. took before and after pics but for some reason my computer isnt reading my sd card. but it is definitely far enough from the stalks now... though i would recommend a 1" spacer for people with big fingers.
it also makes it just a tiny bit easier to get my legs in the car. not that i have that much of a problem but now there's more clearance.
pics when i can make them work
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No charge for a restest... Changed the plug wires, adjusted my idle, and drove 30 miles going 70 in 4th gear... Passed no problem.
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Everybody, always add "Guaranteed to Pass" before you go for the test.
It will save you money for a retest.
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Failed emissions this morning. Did fine on the high RPM, failed at idle. JUST BARELY. Well, it's been idling low. (600RPM) I turned up the idle a smidge, replaced the cables, and just dumped in a bottle of CRC "Guaranteed to Pass"... Going back after work to see if that did the trick.
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