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What have you done to your Festiva today!?
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Just put on my MPV rear hatch actuator. I used a brass rod joiner with set screws from a Honda. Both rods move together. Now to wire it.Last edited by bravekozak; 05-31-2012, 05:37 PM.
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Went to Pull-A-Part today. Installed a Protege wheel from a '91 into FestEvil, I like it better than the '96 626 wheel, its just as padded and comfy, but it looks much more "at home" in the festiva than the 626 wheel, which looked too modern for the rest of the interior. Another nice little plus is that the horn ring matches up, so there is no modification needed for the horn to work properly.
Also picked up some parts that will make the install of the BP in Keith's car go more smoothly, requiring less tearing apart of the escort. Little stuff like intake tube, vac line for the brake booster, misc. I got 1 year old battery for $20, it will probably go in the Focus.
And I found a 4WD Protege there too, so this weekend when I'm back there I'll be pulling some parts for folks. Already spoken for are the driver side front axle, cable shifter, and the diff lock module. If anyone else needs anything let me know by tomorrow night, I'm leaving out first thing in the morning!
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I am all set to attempt to change the thermostatic expansion valve assembly inside my evaporator. The Ford part number is E7GZ-19849-A.
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Got ready to start ripping out engine, harness and dash from Keith's (loknlode) car. Gonna do the windshield while the dash is out too. This is gonna be one heck of a little car when its done!
Originally posted by neanderpaul View PostSwapped out the Coolant Temp Sensor on the manifold to try and get some mpg's back.
Then I used it as a tractor...
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...519#post519519You can just send those celica wheels up to GA to have them uh... "properly disposed of"
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Originally posted by eurotiva View PostInstalled junspeed rain guards. Then it rained
I've already made a thicker box for the rain guards.
Originally posted by navdoc101 View PostGreg & Jun those are sweet! Gotta get some; soon!Last edited by junspeed; 05-31-2012, 04:42 AM.
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Disassembled, cleaned, and reassembled my headlight switch on my 93 GL. The low beams were out. There are four tiny plastic "bumpers" that move electrical contacts. One seems to be extra and one was missing. So I moved the one that seem to be extra to the place where the one was missing. Problem solved. Then I got it inspected. Then I took the girls to firehouse subs in it for kids eat free night.
Last edited by neanderpaul; 05-29-2012, 06:44 PM.
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Well... My clutch is on it's way out, if it's the original it's lasted 240k O'well might park it soon and swap engines and a 5 spd in it. Nice having a backup car.
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Yup, no experience, much of the time was spent cleaning the old grease out per the Haynes manual, the actual packing took about 30 min per side, including getting the drum back on, which was made harder by the fact that it felt like the shoes had pushed out a bit since I took the drums off even though I hadn't touched anything in the brake assembly. I wouldn't normally take anything to a shop, but the hub/brake stuff is a major safety issue if done wrong.
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Originally posted by kellen302 View Postapprox 60$ for the bearing stuff, 30$ ish for brake shoes, dunno how much for drums, but I have to order everything online because there are no autoparts store within 40 miles or a 10$ each way ferry ride of me. And today I was using firewood as jackstands and going by feel on the torque specs. I'm also dead nuts broke and I'm looking to get a job this summer at the shop I'll call. Today was discouraging, but it took me about 3 hours to do the repack today.
Not experienced? (Honest question)
The firewood isn't a big deal, but it really shouldn't take 3 hours to pack bearings. Put a glob of grease in the palm of your hand, scrub the edge of the wider side of the bearing through it, as though you're chopping a bit of it off each time, and use your thumb to spin the bearing inner race as you do it.
This should take, at max, about 20 mins per side, not counting getting the car up and tires off, which you don't necessarily have to take the tires off, but I'd do it if you don't have experience with bearings.
Regarding torque specs, I just usually do it by feel. But again, I have many years of experience doing things like this.
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approx 60$ for the bearing stuff, 30$ ish for brake shoes, dunno how much for drums, but I have to order everything online because there are no autoparts store within 40 miles or a 10$ each way ferry ride of me. And today I was using firewood as jackstands and going by feel on the torque specs. I'm also dead nuts broke and I'm looking to get a job this summer at the shop I'll call. Today was discouraging, but it took me about 3 hours to do the repack today.
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Originally posted by kellen302 View Postrepacked rear wheel bearings, left drum brake is still dragging... I unseized the rear brakes in february, the adjuster arms were sloppy loose. Now the hubs are warm after 3 miles, not 10 like they were before the repack. I might have to call a shop to get a quote on how much to get everything sorted out in the rear hubs these have been bugging the h e double hockey sticks out of me for the past 5-6months.
Takes maybe an hour each side.
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repacked rear wheel bearings, left drum brake is still dragging... I unseized the rear brakes in february, the adjuster arms were sloppy loose. Now the hubs are warm after 3 miles, not 10 like they were before the repack. I might have to call a shop to get a quote on how much to get everything sorted out in the rear hubs these have been bugging the h e double hockey sticks out of me for the past 5-6months.
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Finally hooked up my dash clock I got from Freshtiva last Oct. Yes, I'm lazy. Its beautiful, I love it.
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