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What have you done to your Festiva today!?

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  • LittleHoe
    replied
    tightened up the rear wheel bearings, and stiffened up the rear spring on the drivers side...

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  • crazyrog17
    replied
    Originally posted by getnpsi View Post
    I plan to vacuuform my own lenses and do a projector retrofit on the festiva, doesn't look nearly as hard as other cars, our lenses are so flat.
    I'm doing this first!

    I've retrofitted my Grand Marquis already, made my own lenses and used FX-Rs with a DDM ballast set up.

    These Festy headlights are almost perfect. I think instead of vacuum forming, I'm going to build them out of plexiglass and the bonding agent that comes out of a bottle with a needle... Anyways, I'll use the Mini D2S bolt ins. Not sure when the money's going to let me though.

    JVX does take good comparison pics. I think he's worked well with Matt at TRS to get output shots of most of the projectors out there.

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  • Oren09
    replied
    I installed the threaded rod rear sway bar. So easy and it makes a noticeable difference.

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  • getnpsi
    replied
    If the wiring is like american cars where the power actually goes to the column switch that is a bad idea. There are relay kits out there plug and play to let you do that tho.


    You can also flip your high beam+ground wire and buy a 9007 and see how the output looks. It's better than a 9004 but still pretty bad.

    Ripped from another site:

    Re: 9004 to 9007 - myths dispelled
    The 9007 output is very similar to the 9004 high beam. This is where it seems like the claims that it improves headlight performance come from.

    Yes, it does make the headlights brighter, and give them more throw. Because it's lighting up the highbeams! What do you expect?

    9004 gives you a crappy lowbeam without too much glare, and a decent highbeam.

    9007 gives you two decent highbeams, and no lowbeams.

    I like the functionality of being able to switch from my crappy lowbeams to my bright highbeams. If I had 9007s, I would either have to aim them down and lose my highbeam throw, or keep them aimed where they are and glare like crazy.

    I just wanted to take some pictures. Yeah, it might not be as good as one of those beam scans they have at some websites, but IMO my basement lighting comparisons do a decent job of making a direct A/B comparison between two lamps. It's worlds better than the typically blurry and overexposed down the road shot of "look how brite my new 9007s are", with no before-and-after, and not all of the variables constant.

    THe only thing that changed from picture to picture was the bulb. The same headlight was in the same spot, running off of the same regulated power, with the same camera from the same position at the same settings with the same ambient light.

    You should totally check out the HID projector comparisons done by JVX over on HIDPlanet. Somehow, he has access to this big gymnasium with dim orange arc-sodium lighting, so he takes all these comparison shots of projectors from like 50+ feet away, and controls all of the variables from each photoshoot to the next, so it is excellent for comparing different projectors.


    I still say do it because it only costs as much as 2 bulbs, and if you drive more in the city, aim them extra low and use the highs more often as needed.

    I plan to vacuuform my own lenses and do a projector retrofit on the festiva, doesn't look nearly as hard as other cars, our lenses are so flat.
    Last edited by getnpsi; 07-12-2011, 11:36 AM.

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  • 200KGPGTP
    replied
    Replaced a headlight. Is there any way to get highs and lows to stay on at the same time, or does it run too hot?

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Washed out my gas tank today, it had a bunch of old dried up gas residue in it. Getting ready to install my walbro 255 pump.

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  • Gomez
    replied
    ^ it's all good. Trust me your not the first for me to argue with about this. Been doing it for years.

    Like you, I'm going back on topic. I was able to roll my windows up quickly enough (thanks Freshtiva) to avoid getting rained on. In Ohio there is usually about a 3 minute warning of such activities. I didn't heed it.

    So, I guess I rolled my windows up.

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  • crazyrog17
    replied
    Alright, didn't mean to cause a ruckus and I apologize for 'giving stereos a bad name'.

    I know how annoying systems are, I have plenty that drive by my house every day and idle in the parking lot next door.

    I do keep it down: I only made that example to show how much it surprised me when she put her window up. I hadn't realized what kind of kick it had.

    (On topic) Today I put $15 of gas in the Festiva and bought it an air freshener
    Last edited by crazyrog17; 07-11-2011, 12:52 PM.

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  • Gomez
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
    It wasn't very loud, just had a lot of vulgarity and swearing, haha. An 8" sub isn't 'hurt your ears' loud anyways.
    How about offensive? Still needs to be turned down at stoplights.

    Believe it or not in my 20+ yrs of Audio building I did build a Camaro (Mullet style) enclosure with 2 8" subs that hit 144Db at the windshield. Since 2 subs is only 3Db louder than one, I think 141Db out of 1 8" sub is loud enough to hurt/damage anyones ears. It isn't for you to decide why it is bothering her. Your still adding to the reason Stereos have a bad name.

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  • neanderpaul
    replied
    Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
    It wasn't very loud, just had a lot of vulgarity and swearing, haha. An 8" sub isn't 'hurt your ears' loud anyways.
    Ever hear "your rights end when the interfere with the rights of others"?

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  • 200KGPGTP
    replied
    I'm with Gomez.

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  • crazyrog17
    replied
    Originally posted by Gomez View Post
    ^ to be honest, it is actions like that that give sound systems a bad name. When you come to a light turn it down. Ever think that it might actually be hurting her ears?
    It wasn't very loud, just had a lot of vulgarity and swearing, haha. An 8" sub isn't 'hurt your ears' loud anyways.

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  • Advancedynamix
    replied
    Originally posted by Oren09 View Post
    I'd be interested in getting rid of my plastic bushings.
    I installed them in my car- the old ones were long gone, and they melted from the heat of the exhaust....
    It wasn't a hard mod really, and not too expensive either. I just pulled out all the stock bolts, and ground/punched out the pin that is peened like a rivet. I then opened up the holes to 1/2" so that a shoulder bolt slides through. I then use a thin (.050") stainless 1/2" a/n washer and a thin (.060") nylon washer on either side of the inner parts of the linkage with the nylon washer to the stamped steel part. The 1/2" by 2" shoulder bolts slide through the whole thing and I used 3/8" locknuts and washers to hold it all together. All the parts can be purchased at most ace hardware stores for less than 20 bucks. I used a uni-bit to open up the holes in the sheetmetal components. Use high temp (copper color) anti seize to lube the shafts when you assemble it and I'd use red loctite even with the locknuts because the heat from the exhaust could melt the nylon in the nuts.
    Last edited by Advancedynamix; 07-10-2011, 08:08 PM.

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  • Gomez
    replied
    ^ to be honest, it is actions like that that give sound systems a bad name. When you come to a light turn it down. Ever think that it might actually be hurting her ears?

    Leave a comment:


  • crazyrog17
    replied
    Installed this the other day. Surprises me how good it is!

    An 8" Polk Audio in a ported box. 500w SONY Xplod amp I had laying around.

    I still have to 'properly' tuck the wires. Some lady at the stoplight today sneered and rolled up her windows. I even saw her roll them back down after she took off from the light, hahaha.

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